Yuasa battery died.....again

[Oss]

I am done with them  My first one lasted 7 yrs plus then 4 yrs then less and less even when I ride the bike regularly
Heck I had a nice ride just a week or so ago, the bike has a perfectly working alternator and when I went to start it yesterday it was so dead no lights lit on the dash   Pushed 8 amps into it all day with the smart charger and it is still flatlined

So Just ordered a Powerstar agm battery with 3 yr warranty

What is the use of a 1 yr warranty when the thing dies at 13 months?

I will be closing on 67 years of age when that warranty expires...Hope my knees and vision last that long

[da prez]

Oss,  be sure to clean all connections and dia-electric them
 
          da prez

[Big Rig]

Our,  be sure to clean all connections and dia-electric them
 
          da prez

 

Should take a charge...must have a short somewhere....

[Challenger]

I broke down last year and bought a battery tender for my I/S. The radio and clock draw on mine will kill the battery in about two weeks. Yuasa, DieHard, Interstae, it doesn't matter.  My Std. will sit for several months and still fire up.

[sixlow]

I broke down last year and bought a battery tender for my I/S. The radio and clock draw on mine will kill the battery in about two weeks. Yuasa, DieHard, Interstae, it doesn't matter.  My Std. will sit for several months and still fire up.

Same here, my IS battery is only good for sitting a week, at 2 weeks she might fire as I release the start button, a sure sign of low voltage. The Tourer cranks like a mutha every time. I only like to use a battery tender when I'm home. Anybody install a disconnect ? setting the clock is pretty quick to do.

[old2soon]

I broke down last year and bought a battery tender for my I/S. The radio and clock draw on mine will kill the battery in about two weeks. Yuasa, DieHard, Interstae, it doesn't matter.  My Std. will sit for several months and still fire up.

      I'm thinking here You and Evan may have other issues. My I/S has sat a month at a time with the Yuasa AGM that's in it now and fired right up. You two may have a parasitic draw on the battery you are Not aware of. And I have zero idea of How to find that draw. Oh and B T W-no battery tender in my case. RIDE SAFE.

[Oss]

The smart charger would detect a short in the battery so that isn't it

But Dennis you may be on to something as I had suspected there may be a
short in the control box for the clock as I cant seem to be able to set it

[da prez]

Dis-connect the negative cable. Hook volt meter negative cable to negative lead, hook positive lead to battery negative. This will give you voltage draw with everything off. The manual should give you voltage draw. DO NOT attempt to start the bike. This checks at rest voltage draw.

                       da prez

 

[Cracker Jack]

Dis-connect the negative cable. Hook volt meter negative cable to negative lead, hook positive lead to battery negative. This will give you voltage draw with everything off. The manual should give you voltage draw. DO NOT attempt to start the bike. This checks at rest voltage draw.

                       da prez

 

There's no such thing as "voltage draw". The reading you get with this hookup would be reverse current (amps) if the meter is on the "current/amp " setting.
You are correct to warn to not attempt to start the bike with the meter in series as you've directed. Even turning the switch on will likely destroy the meter.  It will overload the meter in either the voltage or current setting and will at least blow the fuse if not destroy the meter. Most portable multimeters are limited to 10 amps or less in the high current setting.
You will get a voltage reading if there is a very small parasite load that may not damage the meter.

P. S. I think of voltage as, " electrical pressure". The force that actually pushes the electrons to generate current. The movement of electrons (current) is what does the work.

[da prez]

 This test will let you know if there is a low voltage draw. Nothing else. A parasitic voltage , something feeding when it shouldn't. If the draw is to high , you have to trace it to the source.  There is almost always a residual voltage. Disconnecting the battery unhooks the voltage. Hooking the meter in series will give you a starting point to locate the draw. A meter will handle the battery voltage. This is a test , this is only a test. Had this been an actual  
  It does work. The key is left off.

                                              da prez

[MarkT]

Yep.  Parasitic draw.  Had that problem with my new 4Runner - the dealer couldn't find it.  It would drain a new battery down overnight to where it wouldn't start.  2amp drain.  Disconnecting the battery wouldn't reset the computers.  One of them was corrupted and had persistent memory.  After a couple weeks in the shop and their top mechanic working on it unplugging systems, he inadvertently reset the failed computer so the problem went away.  They never did find the problem.  Meanwhile a thief stole the car out of the garage and went for a joyride, Baja-ing and damaged it.  I thought it would be put on a container ship in San Diego and head to West Africa never to be seen again.  But the cops found it abandoned a week later.

Of course this problem is much more persistent with a complex modern car with a pack of computers.  I have never had a problem with Yuasa AGM bike batteries and buy them exclusively.  Though I have accidentally drained them down to nothing (forgot and left the music amp switched to on w/o running) and had to force-charge to desulfate them.  (I need to install a warning LED for that switch position)  Batteries not used regularly but with acid in them, I keep attached to a trickle charger powered by the garage door opener light.  Batteries installed, but the bike doesn't see much use, get a trickle charge every couple weeks.  I installed power plugs for my heated clothing on all our bikes, and the same plug on all my small chargers, so it's easy to plug them in w/o pulling the seat.

[Avanti]

This test will let you know if there is a low voltage draw. Nothing else. A parasitic voltage , something feeding when it shouldn't. If the draw is to high , you have to trace it to the source.  There is almost always a residual voltage. Disconnecting the battery unhooks the voltage. Hooking the meter in series will give you a starting point to locate the draw. A meter will handle the battery voltage. This is a test , this is only a test. Had this been an actual 
  It does work. The key is left off.

                                              da prez

Pulling one fuse at a time while doing this test will lead you to the circuit causing the draw.

[cookiedough]

I have been to a few auto parts stores who sell various batteries.  They all have told me batteries do not last as long as they used to in recent years.  My Yuasa's have lasted 2x's as long as cheaper WalMart batteries say 5-6 years vs. 2-3 years, but maybe just got lucky?   Have had the worst luck buying any batteries at Batteries Plus, will not buy another battery from them ever again twice lasting only 1 year just to save a few bucks is all not worth it.

I think if get 4-5 years on any cycle battery doing good nowadays. 

[Crazy Miles]

Good luck with the battery!  Knees,  back, eyes, well mine all gave out! Still have the Valk, however, health will not let me ride!  Trike it soon I hope!  HOPE to see ya @ Americade this year, even IF we drive the CRV . Take care bro.

[T.P.]

I  Have had the worst luck buying any batteries at Batteries Plus, will not buy another battery from them ever again twice lasting only 1 year just to save a few bucks is all not worth it.

HEY COOKIEDOUGH,  All of the Duracell Valkyrie batteries at Batteries Plus have a 24 month free replacement   

T.P.

[Pappy!]

My Yuasa joined yours......dead.
No clue how old it was and I am not one to keep it on a battery tender.
Ordered the standard replacement Yuasa. Bigger plates means longer lasting.