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Author Topic: New timing belts today  (Read 2178 times)
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14764


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« on: March 01, 2020, 01:27:58 PM »

It’s been 90K since the last replacement. It was good that I did it a bit early. One of my tensioner bolts has to be sealed or it leaks oil. It was starting to leak. Tiny accumulation of oil inside. Didn’t make its way out of the timing cover but it would not have been long. Hope I have it gooped up enough so I don’t have to redo it like last time. Also put new tensioners and springs this time. All running smooth as long as I don’t see any oil!!!!

Btw the belts were perfect. They really didn’t need changing. But I had them so what the heck
« Last Edit: March 21, 2020, 08:51:11 AM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
Avanti
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Posts: 1403


Stoughton, Wisconsin


« Reply #1 on: March 01, 2020, 01:54:59 PM »

I like the idea of replacing the timing belt tension springs, because springs can fatigue and break. Theoretically, I suppose they could be removed after tightening.
« Last Edit: March 10, 2020, 01:11:28 PM by Avanti » Logged

da prez
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Posts: 4354

. Rhinelander Wi. Island Lake Il.


« Reply #2 on: March 09, 2020, 07:05:57 PM »

 Chris , Teflon tape around the bolt will seal as well or better than sealer and is easier to remove.  It is also good if you need a shake proof nut and do not have one. Be sure to apply in the right direction.

                                          da prez
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14764


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2020, 09:59:58 AM »

Chris , Teflon tape around the bolt will seal as well or better than sealer and is easier to remove.  It is also good if you need a shake proof nut and do not have one. Be sure to apply in the right direction.

                                          da prez

Ill try that next time, thanks
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raaamad
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Posts: 14


« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2020, 05:45:18 AM »

Can't resist chiming in on my experience with pipe sealants.

I had the very good fortune of working at a nuclear power testing lab as a knuckle dragging technician back in the late 1970's.

We found a need for understanding the best performing tapered pipe thread sealants available at that time. Long story short....We were creating ultra pressure and vacuum vessels in extreme heat and cold and testing them for ANY leaks. This includes helium atoms migrating through the sealant, even if the sealant is fully incorporated into the joint.

Our unofficial anecdotal, but to me, convincing results, ranked from best to not-so-best (based on my fading memory):

1. Permatex Form-A-Gasket No 2
This gooey messy non hardening paste was the best performer in all hot and cold environments to stop helium atoms from passing through.
Plus--easy to remove and re-install
Drawback---some chemical outgassing would contaminate the vessel, and very sticky/messy.

2. Epoxy (don't recall which, but I have used JB Weld extensively with excellent results.
This gooey messy glue was as good or better than the Permatex.
Plus-- Excellent sealing, semi permanent.
Drawbacks--some chemical outgassing would contaminate the vessel, and needs to be heated to soften for removal and re-install.

3. Pipe Dope (don't recall which, but remember the gooey messy worked best.
Plus-- designed for pipe sealing. Relatively easy to clean
Drawback-- many helium atoms passed through in our tests(Most plummers and pipe fitters (including us gearheads) do not need to worry about this drawback)

4. Silicone Sealant (Don't recall which, I think it was a GE product)
Plus--It would seal the pipe, and relatively easy to clean
Drawback--Would harden and crumble and would allow helium to pass.

5. Teflon Tape (Don't recall which, but it was a very popular brand at the time)
Plus-- easy to use and not messy. If properly applied, it does lube the pipe threads nicely
Drawback--Very poor sealing. (I don't know if helium sealing is an issue for plummers or gearheads)

My point is... I prefer Form-A-Gasket No 2 for almost all of my pipe sealing needs (even as a bolt thread lube and anti-sieze), and will reach for the others occasionally.

WD40 works well to clean my hands and parts upon final assembly.

 






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RonW
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Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2020, 06:39:49 AM »

But why does his bolt leak oil to begin with? I've never heard of it.
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14764


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2020, 07:32:37 AM »

But why does his bolt leak oil to begin with? I've never heard of it.

It just does. It’s the inboard bolt for the right (throttle) side tensioner. I’m using Yamabond4. And that does s good job it’s just a tad messy
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h13man
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To everything there is an exception.

Indiana NW Central Flatlands


« Reply #7 on: March 12, 2020, 09:36:17 AM »

Teflon tape is the worst sealant steel for plumbing fittings. Good old pipe dope is the best by far in this application but for oily application in this particular application, been using Permatex blue non hardening sealant. Also used on the valve covers after valve adjustment. No problems so far in 30,000 mi.+
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14764


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #8 on: March 12, 2020, 10:00:11 AM »

Teflon tape is the worst sealant steel for plumbing fittings. Good old pipe dope is the best by far in this application but for oily application in this particular application, been using Permatex blue non hardening sealant. Also used on the valve covers after valve adjustment. No problems so far in 30,000 mi.+

The valve covers don’t need any sealant except for little tiny dabs at the corners near the cam seals. I just use black RTV and never leaked in 18 years
« Last Edit: March 21, 2020, 08:36:57 AM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14764


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #9 on: March 21, 2020, 08:44:31 AM »

Well, it leaked. After a few days of riding I had a couple drops of oil leak it from the timing cover. So I resealed the bolt with Yamabond 4 again and rode for a few more days. Yesterday I took a 100 mile trip on the freeway and to my dismay another drop of oil. My frustration turned to relief when I pulled the cover again and found it all bone dry. The oil was residual from the last time. Should be good now for years. Dont want the Valkyrie to get kicked out of the family room for marking it’s territory!
« Last Edit: March 21, 2020, 08:48:11 AM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
Avanti
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Posts: 1403


Stoughton, Wisconsin


« Reply #10 on: March 21, 2020, 09:50:24 AM »

Must have missed that one drop when cleaning. Amazing!
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14764


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #11 on: April 05, 2020, 08:29:51 AM »

Mystery solved and proof extreme cleaning can save an embarrassment.  Oil leak, WHAT OIL LEAK!!!

A friend and I went on a good 100 mile plus ride on Friday and low and behold there was another slight show (not even a drop) of oil at the bottom of the timing cover way at the right side.  Now this is getting frustrating!  So off comes the timing cover and its all dry inside.  So, instead of wiping off the areas that had oil on them before, I cleaned those areas with mean green wondering if a hot engine could cause a film of oil to become a tiny drop.  Buttoned everything up but haven't rode again.

Well, yesterday I decided to put the bike on the lift to clean and polish the wheels and other places that I could find that I could have missed.  So with my flashlight I'm searching all the hidden cracks and spaces that are hard to reach and low and behold I find a film of oil on the back side of the  cam pully cover plate right next to the valve cover.  Careful inspection with the flashlight showed the valve cover gasket around the seal hub to be a tad wet.  The tiny leak, more like a seep was coming from the valve cover.  

Luckily I had one more brand new valve cover gasket and I replaced it just now.  While everything was apart I was able to clean all that oily mess and more so that side of the engine is fine.  No evidence that the left side is having the same problem, so hopefully were good.

If nothing else this 30 days of confinement is going to benefit the Cobra bike the most!!!
« Last Edit: April 05, 2020, 08:31:58 AM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
Avanti
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Posts: 1403


Stoughton, Wisconsin


« Reply #12 on: April 05, 2020, 08:35:46 PM »

If confinement last to much longer I will need to find another bike to fix.  Mine is done and am already working on a friends. 
Maybe I will need to start designing an adjustable windscreen. 
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14764


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #13 on: April 06, 2020, 05:12:07 AM »

If confinement last to much longer I will need to find another bike to fix.  Mine is done and am already working on a friends. 
Maybe I will need to start designing an adjustable windscreen. 

Ya sounds like you have friends like me. My house is Valkyrie repair central sometimes. But I love it Cheesy
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16773


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #14 on: April 06, 2020, 05:28:52 AM »


I ran into my buddy Dan at the grocery store the other day. We talked about
different stuff, including Valkyries. He's the master mechanic of master
mechanics. I realize that changing a timing belt and checking valves doesn't
require a master mechanic, but I've never done either. I rode my 1500 yesterday -
just a little more than 700 miles before the odometer rolls over. Dan's going
to help me with both of those chores as soon as we get the "all clear" on
the social distancing...

-Mike "1500 runs like a new one  cooldude "
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nogrey
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Live every day as if it were your last

Nampa, Idaho


WWW
« Reply #15 on: April 06, 2020, 09:48:53 AM »

Well, it leaked. After a few days of riding I had a couple drops of oil leak it from the timing cover. So I resealed the bolt with Yamabond 4 again and rode for a few more days. Yesterday I took a 100 mile trip on the freeway and to my dismay another drop of oil. My frustration turned to relief when I pulled the cover again and found it all bone dry. The oil was residual from the last time. Should be good now for years. Dont want the Valkyrie to get kicked out of the family room for marking it’s territory!
Plus, it’s just poor form to have a Valkyrie leaking any oil! Especially after the hard time we give those Harley guys!
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F6MoRider
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Posts: 294


Lakeland, FL


« Reply #16 on: April 07, 2020, 04:16:08 PM »

Where did the Sgt Joe or other link go for changing the timing belts?  It used to be here and had Instructions for a tool to turn it so it lined up?  Anybody have it?
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VRCC #4086
2000 Valk Standard dressed with matching Interstate Bags and the Hondaline shield.
gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #17 on: April 07, 2020, 06:26:50 PM »

The trigger wheel.

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/joeswheel.htm

Drill Sgt Joe.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

SPOFF
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Posts: 195


Derry, NH


« Reply #18 on: April 10, 2020, 12:15:33 PM »

Also put new tensioners and springs this time.

That's a smart idea. Those parts won't be available forever. On early GoldWings you need to modify Kia parts.
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