Reviving the old girl after 5 years! One step forward 2 steps back.

[dpcarson]

OK, So, after job changes ands injuries, I am finally back to being able to ride after 5 years.  Yes, my Valks have sat for 5 years.  Pulled carbs and tanks on the first one this morning while at home avoiding Corona Virus.    So, drained tank and now I need to clean and reseal the tank.  What is your favorite kit or sealant to do that with.  Watched the D-ray video on YouTube and was going to go that route unless somebody can tell me different.  Lots of rust in the funnel filter so I have some work to do there.  

Removed Petcock to drain.  Filter is stuck and will not come out.  Keep pulling harder or is there another trick?  Back with original petcock or do I go with pingle.

This is my interstate I am working on now and it has been desmogged.  I remember a while back somebody was selling kits with all the caps and plugs for the kit.  I am replacing all that because it is definitely dry rotted.  Can somebody point me in the right direction there.

Also, When I got this bike and had to do all this before (7 or 8 years ago), somebody had a parts list of everything needed for the carb cleaning and rebuild.  gaskets, o-rings, plungers, etc.  Can anybody point me back to that list please?

Also, the top of the engine is filthy.  had a bird nest tucked in there and looks like some mice were in there at some point. (sure hope I am not trouble shooting electrical next) While I have the carbs off I was going to give the top of the engine and thorough cleaning but didn't want to with the cylinder intakes only plugged with paper towels.  Anybody know of something I can buy or find around the home that would be the right size to plug those cylinders to keep water out of them so I can clean that nasty beast up some.

Thanks in advance.  I know all y'all sitting at home trying to avoid Corona's too.  I am a yeungling guy myself.

[Savage]

Good luck with the cleanup and restart, brother.

You want to look at Redeye for the carb rebuild parts.
Rich is a good guy and will take care of you.
This kit below includes most everything except the bowl gaskets (he also sells those separately.)
It also includes the correct plastic plugs to seal the intakes while you are working on top of the engine and for cleaning. I like to smear a little o-ring lube on the lip of the plastic intake plugs to help them seal and keep them in place while working.

https://redeye.ecrater.com/p/2063876/carburetor-gasket-kit-viton-gf

P.S. - he also sells a couple different versions of the desmog kits. If you ask him, I’m sure he will have the parts you need replaced.

[gordonv]

With all the rust removers out there, I wouldn't try to seal my gas tank unless it was leaking.

The filter screen could be difficult to pull out if it's is still in the tank, put it's plastic, a hook should get it out. I bought and carry a spare one now, in case my tank ever comes off, I can replace it (it was fine when I inspected it last years maintenance at 105K).

[indybobm]

Try using some needle nose pliers to grab the filter and pull it out. Thinking of using a tank liner gives me shudders!

[dpcarson]

Thanks for all the help so far.  Rinsed out the tank and the amount of rust that came out was scary.  Finally just pushed the old filter not the tank and then Pulled the fuel level level sending unit out and grabbed it through there.  Got the soaking with some white vinegar in it right now and about to clean up the engine top. That thing is LOADED with rust.  After the white vinegar works on it a while I am going to hit it with some evaporust. 

 Got the carbs out and pulled apart, but still got them in the 6pack holder.  Debating on pulling them completely apart or just cleaning and re-assebling from this point.  Thoughts anyone?

Definitely got to put together a parts order for all this dry rotted stuff though.  Thanks for the link Savage.  this is where I ordered all my parts from when I bought this Valk after it sat for 2 years.  Said lots of bad stuff about that guy leaving it sitting for 2 years and now I have left both of mine sitting for 5. 

Just out of curiosity, does the standard have a access point in the bottom of the tank like the interstate, just without the sending unit?  If so, that will make cleaning it a little easier too.  The standard will be next after this one.  With any luck I might get a few days off work for Corona so I fcan stay on task.

Thanks for the info so far.  Keep the info coming. 

[gordonv]

Only the 6.9 gal IS tank has the hatch for the sending unit.

Since the carbs are already out, it's hard t say. Mine was running, and I took it out for a desmog. Didn't touch them at all.

Maybe use that spray foam carb cleaner that was posted. You spray it into the drain hole on the carb, and let it soak. But you won't want to take the carbs out again if it requires a kit and proper cleaning. Might as well go all the way, maybe even get/borrow an ultrasonic bath and the proper cleaner, then you'll clean the carbs right.

Once the tank is cleaned/flushed out, and treated with the evaporust, you should be fine. Just inspect it, that's what the filter is for.

[9Ball]

My Valkyrie sat for almost 8 years following spinal fusion surgery, but I changed out the gas with fresh stabilized fuel each fall and kept the tank completely topped off.  Sorry yours wasn’t able to be left in this condition.

If you are going to do it, then take the extra time and effort to completely disassemble the carbs.  Redeyetech big kit gives the tools and instructions for separating the carbs, replacing all the old o-rings and gaskets.  He even supplies the carb linkage spacers, washers, bearings, and cotter pins.  Worth the effort in my book.

I would recommend buying all new jets and float valves.  If you don’t get the current ones completely clean, without scoring the orifices, then you will be pulling the carbs again and replacing them anyway...many of us have been down this road.  Be sure to test the air cut valves according to Rich’s redeyetech instructions.  I also recommend buying the replacement screws he sells.  Also, buy yourself a set of JIS screwdrivers from Amazon....the OEM are not Phillips head screws.  Be very careful with the air cut screws, both removing them and re-installing them.  There is a technique that I use that I will gladly share with you when the time comes.

Be sure to clean all the passages in the carb body.  Failure to do this will make your rebuild unsuccessful.  I’ve done the complete overhaul on two sets of my carbs (original set on bike and spare set I reconditioned for future use) in the past two years.  Getting to be pretty good at it.

Good luck....

[dpcarson]

Great info.  Looks like I will get extra time at home coming up from Covid mess so carbs are apart and taking them all the way down at this point.  Going to contact Rich and order all rings and fittings etc, today and was looking at carb jet kits.  Several places on eBay have full kits of the jets and screws for about90 bucks.  Has anybody tried any of these kits?  Is there another source that would be better?  Last time I went through these carbs I just cleaned all the jets good and did not replace them.  only replaced plungers.


Thanks

[9Ball]

Order your jets and float valves directly from Sudco...the eBay stuff is questionable.

[gordonv]

Order your jets and float valves directly from Sudco...the eBay stuff is questionable.

Sudco? Do you have a link?

[9Ball]

Yes...

http://www.sudco.com/

http://sudco.com/Catalog37Digital/files/assets/basic-html/index.html#page1

Call their tech support and let them know you want replacement jets for your Valkyrie, GL1500c/ct/cf.  stock sizes are #100 main and #35 secondary.  You also should order 6 new float valves.  These are only available as Japanese made K&L float valves but they are the best quality I have found.

You can search the catalog using Adobe if you are familiar with this software, but just as easy to call.

Keep the thread updated as you progress with the maintenance.  This may help others in the future.

Good luck...

[dpcarson]

Went to the coast fishing yesterday and got home to my parts from Redeye Rich just waiting for me!!  So, was able to get all of the carbs put back together with the new parts today.  Tomorrow will be getting them back together on the racks and then back on the old girl.  Sure would love to hear her wake back up tomorrow, but just remembered I haven't ordered a new fuel filter yet.  Oh well.  Patience is a.... well patience sucks actually.

[dpcarson]

OK. Carbs on, Airbox going in, DANGIT!!!!  That freakin little air shield again!!  Did this exact same thing 5 years ago when I had to pull her apart to replace the stater pinion.  So, air shield in, new profanity words practiced, airbox in, new battery in, everything back ready to go except the tank.  Still waiting on the filter screen from partzilla.  I am close enough now to sit an her and make motorcycle sounds while waiting for the final part and just wondering what I am forgetting.

[dpcarson]

I was so excited tonight.  I came home from work, and after running Lazarus up the road last night, I was all excited about syncing up the carbs and then putting her back together and getting ready to have her inspected and re-registered.  Well, She was smelling just a little bit rich, but last time I did these carbs I put 38's in her instead of 35's.  Figured that was it was that way 5 years ago too and I just didn't remember it so I decided to go ahead and start on the digital-sync.  Plugged it in and started on the cycling all the hoses on and off the #5 carb to make sure all the hoses and ports on my homemade digisync were matching up.  Found a couple minor variations in them and then felt something drip on my foot. 



Damnit!!  coolant leaking.  Then I realize I never heard the fan kick on and didn't notice any change of the thermostat opening.  Time to take a step back before I start those forward steps again!  I am about ready to pull Speedy out of storage and start working on her because I just need a break from Lazarus. Time to break out the manual and figure out how to check the fan and see if there is anyway to check that thermostat without pulling the carbs back off.  Go ahead.  I know one of you is gonna go ahead and break my heart early by telling me there isn't. 

[Savage]

Have you determined where the coolant is coming from?
Did you check the radiator cap to make sure it’s good?

[dpcarson]

I haven't yet.  I just finished my beer and went inside at that point.  There is some coolant running down the radiator and timing cover so I am hoping that is where it is coming from.  It would be nice to hav e an easy fix on something.

[JimC]

If you did not hear the fan tun on, that is probably the reason for overheating and pushing the fluid out the cap.
That is very easy to check. Pull the wire off the bottom of the radiator and run a ground wire from the frame to the wire you pulled off, that will energize the fan motor. you can run like that with a hand switch until you get the replacement part.

Jim

[dpcarson]

Awesome Jim.  I do fair mechanically, but not so much electrically.

[Willow]

... cycling all the hoses on and off the #5 carb to make sure all the hoses and ports on my homemade digisync ...

Homemade digisync?  DigiSync is the name of a device marketed by a VRCC vendor.  It's a shortened for of digital synchronizer.  You shouldn't use that name unless you are speaking of his marketed device.

[9Ball]

I was so excited tonight.  I came home from work, and after running Lazarus up the road last night, I was all excited about syncing up the carbs and then putting her back together and getting ready to have her inspected and re-registered.  Well, She was smelling just a little bit rich, but last time I did these carbs I put 38's in her instead of 35's.  Figured that was it was that way 5 years ago too and I just didn't remember it so I decided to go ahead and start on the digital-sync.  Plugged it in and started on the cycling all the hoses on and off the #5 carb to make sure all the hoses and ports on my homemade digisync were matching up.  Found a couple minor variations in them and then felt something drip on my foot.  



Damnit!!  coolant leaking.  Then I realize I never heard the fan kick on and didn't notice any change of the thermostat opening.  Time to take a step back before I start those forward steps again!  I am about ready to pull Speedy out of storage and start working on her because I just need a break from Lazarus. Time to break out the manual and figure out how to check the fan and see if there is anyway to check that thermostat without pulling the carbs back off.  Go ahead.  I know one of you is gonna go ahead and break my heart early by telling me there isn't.  

You talk about the #5 carb...how come?  If you are syncing to #5 then that is wrong.  #3 is the base carb that all the others synch to...just wondering.

Also, if you’re running the bike in your garage it’s a good idea to have a fan blowing on your radiator and across the pipes.

[dpcarson]

Thank you forum police.  I guess I was here before digisync ever existed, just like you, and built mine based on the instruction provided to me by the forum member that started building them and partnered with another member who was making the boxes.  IF he wants to call me out that will be fine b because I will be glad to tell everybody that it is an incredible tool and the easiest way I can imagine to sync carbs. 

I said what I did about the #5 carb just because it was easy to access and what I was doing was checking all of my hoses and each port of my "home made digital synchronizer created with the instructions provided to me by the creator of digisync"  to verify that everything was still working properly and matched up after 6 years without being used.  By the way, my "home made digital synchronizer created with the instructions provided to me by the creator of digisync" still worked perfectly after 6 years of being thrown in my toolbox drawer without being in the plastic box. I would highly recommend it to anybody that owns a Valk and doesn't have one!