Help, I need somebody, Help, not just anybody, help, well you get the picture

[dpcarson]

OK, just finished putting carbs back together and getting them back in the bike. I do wish somebody could tell me what that air shield is for other than perfecting my profanity.  So, Is there a point that I can test fire everything without finishing a full reassembly?  OK, I also can't remember is my vacuum line to the tank connected to the nipple on carb 3?  I got the redeye rich kit and plugs the intake nipples on all 6 carbs.  Was that right?  I know, should have taken more pictures before disassembly. I have been searching for 20 minutes and cannot find the original info I used to de-smog the Valk 6 years ago, so I should have taken some pictures when I started.

[Skinhead]

The line that goes to the tank is a vent and should have a T fitting near the bottom then more hose and is vented to air.  The T doesn't connect to any thing.

The vacuum line to the petcock can be connected to any carbs vacuum port, but is usually connected to #6.

[Foozle]

03-23

OK, first thing - take a deep breath and relax.  Think zen.  If this requires a cold beer and a good night's sleep - do it and start fresh tomorrow.  We've all been there.

My understanding is that the plastic air dam is there to redirect hot air away from the carbs (and yes, re-installation provides ample opportunity to expand one's vocabulary).  It's best put it back before the carbs, but I believe others have wrestled it on afterwards.  Warming it in the summer sun (yeah, right?) is said to help a bit.  I suppose a carefully applied heat gun might do the same.

I'm not sure what you mean by "full reassembly"?  Aside from the normal operating fluids, you need to have everything hooked up but the tank - provided you can fashion an external fuel supply.  Don't try running it without the air box, etc.

If you're running the stock set-up, the vacuum line from the petcock can go to any carb; as was previously stated, #6 is closest. The line that goes from the tank is the vent line - and runs straight down through a plastic "tee" and exits near the side stand; it does not connect to anything.

Good luck - I hope this helps.  Others can chime in if I'd led you astray.  

Terry

[dpcarson]

OK, think I am square.  Thanks for the assist.  That air damn oh I mean dam, is a pain.  the cold beer may be why I can't picture what goes where!! LOL.  So, the open Tee had me stumped.  Now I know it was just open and I am not missing a tube.  Petcock vacuum to 6.  Check.  A small container that could connect to the fuel line would sure be awesome.  That would let me fire it up without having to go through the full tank connection.  Guess it really doesn't matter.  Couple beers while working and it being a Sunday afternoon just makes me really impatient since I will not be able to get back to it for a couple days. 

[Savage]

I highly recommend this auxiliary fuel tank for testing.
After many years of fully reassembling my many different Valkyries just for testing, I bought one of these in January.  Not really sure why I didn’t buy one a decade ago.

Guess it must be that thing where if I go long enough between iterations, I forget the pain of doing it the hard way!

BikeMaster Auxiliary Fuel Tank EC-900N https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QKO7TMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TpeEEbDKH1PXR

[rug_burn]

If I could only figure out how to post  images, I'd post a scan of that page in the manual that shows where everything goes.  that line on the #3 carb goes to one of those valves on top of the engine, the rearward one, I believe.

[..]

If I could only figure out how to post  images, I'd post a scan of that page in the manual that shows where everything goes.  that line on the #3 carb goes to one of those valves on top of the engine, the rearward one, I believe.

https://postimages.org/

Create an account using the SIGN UP box top right.

Create a new gallery by clicking on the box towards the top left

Upload photos. Do a max of 4 at a time or it can take too long.

Once uploaded put your cursor on the image you want to put on the VRCC forum

Now move your cursor to the symbol to left of the trash bin symbol
Click on it
Now copy the "Hotlink" for forums.

Now go to the VRCC post you want the photo to appear in and right click and paste.

Once you then post your comment the photo should appear for all to see.

[rug_burn]

thanks- i'll do that

[Morse]

I figure you've probably got it back together by now but I always use a squeeze bottle (like the ones for ketchup) as an aux gas tank.  About 50 cents at Walmart. I stick the nozzle in the fuel line and fill the line up when the bike starts to sputter.  A full line gives me about 3 minutes of tinkering.  Not great for test riding but works fine for making sure it will idle and rev all right.  Remember though that the airbox is getting a little less restriction with the tank off, so if it seems off and you can't tell why, that might be it. (My bike could seemingly never tell the difference though)

Also, as you said that line from number three attaches to the smog stuff, but--for other people searching for the same thing--if you're desmogged just cap nipple 3.  On a desmogged bike all nipples except one of them (usually 6) are capped, 6 should have a line going to the vacuum petcock, if you don't have a free flow petcock that is.

[dpcarson]

Thanks guys.  Like is semi back together. hooked up the fuel tank last night and fired her up and got her idling.  Even took her up the road about 1/4 mile and back.  Now to pull out that old digital carb sync tool and sync up the carbs.  Hopefully will be able to ride again this year.  I have another back surgery coming up and the nurse called yesterday and said she had no idea when I twill get done because hospitals have diverted all resources to Covid.  Oh well.  Told my wife that if they were going to fix it anyway I should go ahead and play.  Kind of like getting that last little bit of rubber burned off of those tires when I was a kid.  Getting tires Monday??  Time for burnouts all weekend!!

[John Schmidt]

OK, first mistake was removing the air dam. Not necessary at all. Before removing the carbs(which hopefully you won't have to do again), remove or at least swing out of the the upper engine hangers....one on each side. The motor isn't going to fall to the floor, still has other engine mounts in place in front and on the bottom. With the upper hangers out of the way you now have enough room to remove the carbs without touching the air dam. In the future when you're facing a major porject, ask here first. This time it would have saved you a lot of time and irritation. 

[dpcarson]

Not just this time, but this time and last time.  I dropped the engine in this thing to replace the starter pinion when I bought it six years ago and didn't even do it like this that time!  Wow, Common sense doesn't seem to be so common in my garage these days!!

[9Ball]

If I could only figure out how to post  images, I'd post a scan of that page in the manual that shows where everything goes.  that line on the #3 carb goes to one of those valves on top of the engine, the rearward one, I believe.

On a stock setup, carbs 3 & 4 go to the PAIR valve.  That line has a “T”. Carb 6 connects to the vacuum nipple on the petcock (snicker).  Carbs 1, 2 & 5 have vacuum caps.

Hope this helps.

[dpcarson]

Thanks 9-ball.  I have desmogged this one several years ago.  Think I have it all figured out now.  Was having some issues after getting her back together with rough idle and sounded like a vacuum leak.  I hope I have it figured out now.  Should have it back together this afternoon to give it another try.

[rug_burn]

If any of you want a copy of that page out of the manual with the hose routing diagram, just send me a message, and I'll email it to you-

[dpcarson]

message sent.  Thanks