Valve adjustment procedure.

[John Schmidt]

First, I had to find my shop manual. Having moved last August I still have boxes I don't plan to unpack, my girls can do that when I depart this blue marble. I couldn't find the manual, dug through six boxes in the guest BR then out to the garage where I went through every cussed one out there(5). Nothing! Was standing next to my workbench wondering where to look next when it suddenly dawned on me I was standing next to a box covered with other stuff. Yup....as usual when you're looking for something it's always in the last box available.

So, I'm looking at the valve adjustment procedure, it's not difficult and have done it a few times before but is a bit of a PITA having to move from one side to the other and back as you rotate the crank to address each cylinder. I'd love to be able to do all on one side then move to the other side and do all of those. Has anyone developed a method whereby you can accomplish that, without having to go back and forth from one side to the other and back again?! I'm trying to find out why I have a slight miss in one cylinder....kind of a fluttering sound that's present until you get near 3k rpm. At idle the exhaust sounds like a dragster with an extreme cam installed, then crack the throttle and it screams...same as the Valk. Give it a twist and there's definitely no miss, it's just hang on.

[WintrSol]

Simple - just remove all the spark plugs, then turn the engine until you see the intake valve, for the cylinder you want to adjust, open then close. Continue turning the engine until that cylinder is at TDC and adjust.

[F6Dave]

I always do one side at a time.  I just remove a valve cover, look for a closed valve or two (based on the cam lobe position) and adjust them.  Then I tap the starter and adjust some more.  After a few iterations of this (6 at the most!) I move to the other side.

For decades, this is how I've done all valve adjustments on OHC engines.  It's very common.  I have to wonder if the methods that have you observe the timing marks are a holdover from the days when OHV engines were the norm, and you couldn't couldn't see the camshaft.

[Chrisj CMA]

I don’t see what the big deal is. I do it by the manual and it takes half an hour unless I take some breaks to make it last longer. The only reason I do it by the manual is it saves time not having to check which cylinder to do next. Just rotate to the next number and get to it.

[The emperor has no clothes]

I don’t see what the big deal is. I do it by the manual and it takes half an hour unless I take some breaks to make it last longer. The only reason I do it by the manual is it saves time not having to check which cylinder to do next. Just rotate to the next number and get to it.

+1

[CoreyP]

I don’t see what the big deal is. I do it by the manual and it takes half an hour unless I take some breaks to make it last longer. The only reason I do it by the manual is it saves time not having to check which cylinder to do next. Just rotate to the next number and get to it.

Really a half hour. Hmmm. Think this is next on my list of maintenance items. I just picture adjusting the valves on this bike might take a while.

[..]

I don’t see what the big deal is. I do it by the manual and it takes half an hour unless I take some breaks to make it last longer. The only reason I do it by the manual is it saves time not having to check which cylinder to do next. Just rotate to the next number and get to it.

Really a half hour. Hmmm. Think this is next on my list of maintenance items. I just picture adjusting the valves on this bike might take a while.

Maybe the first time but then.................

Just remember a loose valve is a happy valve. Don't get them adjusted tight. Tight slide the feeler gauge. Shouldn't have to force it.

[Chrisj CMA]

I don’t see what the big deal is. I do it by the manual and it takes half an hour unless I take some breaks to make it last longer. The only reason I do it by the manual is it saves time not having to check which cylinder to do next. Just rotate to the next number and get to it.

Really a half hour. Hmmm. Think this is next on my list of maintenance items. I just picture adjusting the valves on this bike might take a while.

Im talking about the  actual adjusting. It takes me longer to r/r the valve covers than it does to do the adjustment check

[..]

I don’t see what the big deal is. I do it by the manual and it takes half an hour unless I take some breaks to make it last longer. The only reason I do it by the manual is it saves time not having to check which cylinder to do next. Just rotate to the next number and get to it.

Really a half hour. Hmmm. Think this is next on my list of maintenance items. I just picture adjusting the valves on this bike might take a while.

Im talking about the  actual adjusting. It takes me longer to r/r the valve covers than it does to do the adjustment check

 

[..]

I don’t see what the big deal is. I do it by the manual and it takes half an hour unless I take some breaks to make it last longer. The only reason I do it by the manual is it saves time not having to check which cylinder to do next. Just rotate to the next number and get to it.

Really a half hour. Hmmm. Think this is next on my list of maintenance items. I just picture adjusting the valves on this bike might take a while.

When you remove the front cover bolts you will see there are different sizes. I used a piece of cardboard and stuck them in it in the position matching where they would be on the bike.

[F6Dave]

I don’t see what the big deal is. I do it by the manual and it takes half an hour unless I take some breaks to make it last longer. The only reason I do it by the manual is it saves time not having to check which cylinder to do next. Just rotate to the next number and get to it.

Do you follow the manual completely when removing the rear wheel?  When changing a fork seal or bushing, do you do it by the book?

[Chrisj CMA]

I don’t see what the big deal is. I do it by the manual and it takes half an hour unless I take some breaks to make it last longer. The only reason I do it by the manual is it saves time not having to check which cylinder to do next. Just rotate to the next number and get to it.

Really a half hour. Hmmm. Think this is next on my list of maintenance items. I just picture adjusting the valves on this bike might take a while.

When you remove the front cover bolts you will see there are different sizes. I used a piece of cardboard and stuck them in it in the position matching where they would be on the bike.

I do the same only with a piece of wood. It’s will last as long as I will.  Lol

[Chrisj CMA]

I don’t see what the big deal is. I do it by the manual and it takes half an hour unless I take some breaks to make it last longer. The only reason I do it by the manual is it saves time not having to check which cylinder to do next. Just rotate to the next number and get to it.

Do you follow the manual completely when removing the rear wheel?  When changing a fork seal or bushing, do you do it by the book?

I don’t do fork seals. But I do a lot of rear wheels. Yes!  I do the vital parts according to the book. The parts that don’t make sense like removing the exhaust there are work arounds.

[F6Dave]

I don’t see what the big deal is. I do it by the manual and it takes half an hour unless I take some breaks to make it last longer. The only reason I do it by the manual is it saves time not having to check which cylinder to do next. Just rotate to the next number and get to it.

Do you follow the manual completely when removing the rear wheel?  When changing a fork seal or bushing, do you do it by the book?

I don’t do fork seals. But I do a lot of rear wheels. Yes!  I do the vital parts according to the book. The parts that don’t make sense like removing the exhaust there are work arounds.

At least we agree on something:  the manual has flaws.  The more I've used Honda's manuals the less I like them.  They have lots of data and good wiring diagrams, so they make a decent reference.  But as a step by step guide they often overcomplicate procedures.  Removing the entire exhaust system and replacing all the gaskets just to pull the rear wheel is ridiculous.  To replace fork seals Honda says you must buy a special tool and fully disassemble the forks, which is needless.  These aren't isolated examples.

Honda also get carried away with references.  To do a simple task you're often referred to another section.  Then from that section you may be referred to another, which might even refer you somewhere else.  I bought the manual for my F6B and it's even worse.  To change the air filter I had to jump around to about a dozen sections.  I ended up using a checklist from the F6B board instead.  No wonder so many use YouTube videos instead of paper manuals these days.

But back to valve adjustment.  If you look at the valve timing chart for a Valkyrie you'll see that at least 3 valves are fully closed at any point of engine rotation, and 98% of the time 4 valves are closed.  So if you pop the valve covers there's a 98% chance that you'll be able to adjust 4 valves immediately, simply by inspecting the cam position.  Reposition the engine with the starter twice and there's a good chance you'll be able to do them all.  At worst you may need to tap the starter a few times to catch the last valve or two.  It's beer time before you know it.  Maybe we should have a contest at a future Inzane!

[John Schmidt]

Did the valve adjustment this afternoon and got one side valve cover back on before it got too dark. My car blocks most of the light and I usually park it outside the garage but today I didn't. Found four intakes so tight I couldn't get a 5mm gauge in there on a couple. Adjusted for a slight drag when moving the 6mm feeler back & forth. Only one exhaust was extremely loose(could slip an 11mm in) and ran it down just a tad, going for the same drag feeling with the 9mm. Most of them I was able slip the feelers in and if it went in and got a little drag when I moved it, I left it alone. Hardest part of the entire operation was getting up/down when checking the exhaust. I have a few joints that are about 100 yrs. older than I and getting up off a cement floor can be interesting. 

Tomorrow I'll finish putting it back together and out of the wheel chock. Weather permitting I'll give it a short test ride. Also took delivery of my new ultrasonic cleaner. Paid $115+tax, holds 1.5 gal. cleaning fluid, all SS, heated, has a timer up to 30 min. I'll be using it for my upcoming carb rebuild. Looks like the basket might hold all or most of two carbs at once, it's about 10" long.

[WintrSol]

Those are odd numbers. My service manual says valve clearance is 0.15mm intake, 0.22mm exhaust, or 0.006" intake and 0.009" exhaust.

[John Schmidt]

Whoops, you're right. I had MM on my mind but yes.....006" & .009" for intake and exhaust respectively.