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Author Topic: Rear Wheel Removal  (Read 1360 times)
Fazer
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Posts: 947


West Chester (Cincinnati), Ohio


« on: April 22, 2020, 12:16:56 PM »

I've had my rear wheel off several times, so I know how to do it.  My question is, can the bike be raised high enough with a "Harbor Freight" type jack using the wooden lifting unit to get the tire out from under the fender?  It would save the trouble of removing the bag guards and the rear fender half.
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Challenger
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Posts: 1285


« Reply #1 on: April 22, 2020, 12:39:41 PM »

I use a harbor freight lift and have never removed the rear fender half. It is a little spooky when it's up that high. I have an anchor in the ceiling that I hook a ratchet strap on just in case I get a little rough reinstalling the wheel. Did it many times without the strap but I feel better knowing I can,t accidentally knock it over. I remove the right bag, but not the frame and take the axle out over top of the exhaust. Then jack it up and remove wheel
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mello dude
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Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole

Dayton Ohio


« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2020, 12:52:07 PM »

I've had my rear wheel off several times, so I know how to do it.  My question is, can the bike be raised high enough with a "Harbor Freight" type jack using the wooden lifting unit to get the tire out from under the fender?  It would save the trouble of removing the bag guards and the rear fender half.

Been using a Craftmen jack on mine, and if the bike has the rear fender on you have to raise the bike really high to slip in the the rear wheel/tire. - You also have to watch how the bike is balanced. For addtional support, I am using a heavy duty sisscor jack with a 2x4 under the front of the swingarm.
-I guess the answer is, I can do it on mine, I cant speak to the HF model.





 Cool
« Last Edit: April 22, 2020, 12:56:24 PM by mello dude » Logged

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* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
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* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
John Schmidt
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Posts: 15204


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #3 on: April 22, 2020, 12:59:51 PM »

You all make the job too risky and difficult. I have a centerstand but can also be done with a lift, the CS only raises the rear wheel a couple inches off the floor which is all that's needed. I remove the bags/frame for one reason...cleaning(plus easier to access everything). I then remove the rear half of the fender, only three bolts...can't be any easier. Put a floor jack under the swingarm and remove the bottom of the shocks mounting bolts. Now the entire rear of the bike is exposed, it's not needlessly sitting nearly 2' in the air, and with the floor jack I can move the SA up/down at will for axle R&R. For me, I found it easiest to use a piece of 2x4 as a fulcrum and a 30" piece of 1x3, shove it under the wheel from the rear once you've loosened the axle, then lift enough to remove it. Once the axle is out you merely roll the wheel out. To replace, you merely roll it in place, lift with the 1x3 and put a knee on it, leaving both hands free to shove the axle all the way in without the left spacer or brake mount in place. Engage the splines, now pull the axle out just enough to insert the spacer and brake mount and put on the nut.

I've found if you have a helper, you can remove the bags & frame in one piece. Pull the two rear fender bolts and the small one on top, remove the fender half. Now you can merely lift the bags & frame out in one piece. Through all this you never touch the exhaust.
« Last Edit: April 22, 2020, 01:01:51 PM by John Schmidt » Logged

mello dude
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Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole

Dayton Ohio


« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2020, 01:09:37 PM »

I hear what you are saying John, its just personal taste, I would rather leave the fender alone, and work around that.....



Hey Fazer, we are 30 minutes apart, we should hook up sometime....  Smiley
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* There's someone in my head, but it's not me.......
* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
* There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius.....
* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
Fazer
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Posts: 947


West Chester (Cincinnati), Ohio


« Reply #5 on: April 22, 2020, 01:21:07 PM »

You make some good points, John.  It is a good time to get things clean.  safer too.

Mellow Dude--agreed.  Have you gone to the DRU over the past few years?  What about Inzane?  I'm going this year.

send me a PM and we can trade email addresses.
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Jersey
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Posts: 545


VRCC #37540

Southern Maryland


« Reply #6 on: April 22, 2020, 02:41:02 PM »

Agree, John good points.  I have used your approach a few times, but once I installed the hitch it cancelled that out since I'd have to remove both hardbags AND pull the hitch off so the tire could roll out.

Now I leave the bags alone, but pull the hub and axle to provide clearance needed to remove the tire.  Have to pull it anyway to do the routine maintenance.  Being darkside, I do the hub/axle maintenance every 10k and change the tire every 30k.
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Jersey
Grandpot
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Posts: 630


Rolling Thunder South Carolina Chapter 1

Fort Mill, South Carolina


« Reply #7 on: April 22, 2020, 03:13:22 PM »

Mello Dude, In the first picture, there is a black rectangular screen leaning against the wall.  I just found one laying around the other day.  What's it for? It looks like it fits inside the air box.
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crazy2 Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it.crazy2
mello dude
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Posts: 947


Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole

Dayton Ohio


« Reply #8 on: April 22, 2020, 03:15:56 PM »

Mello Dude, In the first picture, there is a black rectangular screen leaning against the wall.  I just found one laying around the other day.  What's it for? It looks like it fits inside the air box.

Its a radiator stone guard...
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* There's someone in my head, but it's not me.......
* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
* There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius.....
* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
Pluggy
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Posts: 402


Vass, NC


« Reply #9 on: April 22, 2020, 03:55:48 PM »

My bike goes on a wood adapter, then on a Sears jack.  It goes high enough to remove the rear wheel with the whole fender on.  Each engine guard is supported by a jack stand.  It is stable, and I feel quite safe.
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Grandpot
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Posts: 630


Rolling Thunder South Carolina Chapter 1

Fort Mill, South Carolina


« Reply #10 on: April 22, 2020, 04:04:03 PM »

Mello Dude, In the first picture, there is a black rectangular screen leaning against the wall.  I just found one laying around the other day.  What's it for? It looks like it fits inside the air box.

Its a radiator stone guard...

Thanks.  I must have taken it off about ten years ago and forgot to put it back on.  I thought the bike felt a little light.  uglystupid2
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JimC
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Posts: 1818

SE Wisconsin


« Reply #11 on: April 22, 2020, 04:49:55 PM »

I do it without removing the fender on the same type of jack. One thing I do is after the bike is high enough to pull the axle and remove the wheel, I push a wedge of wood (home made car ramp) under the front tire.
Doing so stabilizes the bike, and keeps it from rocking forward on the lift as the weight of the rear wheel is removed. 

I also use a small floor jack under the rear tire to lift it back into place, that makes it much easier to get it secured on the drive unit.

Jim
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Jim Callaghan    SE Wisconsin
Fazer
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Posts: 947


West Chester (Cincinnati), Ohio


« Reply #12 on: April 23, 2020, 06:03:13 AM »

Lot of good suggestions here.  Guess I will decide when the time comes.  I have jack stands I can use under the engine guards to stabilize, which I use even when removing the bag guards, etc.
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14764


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #13 on: April 23, 2020, 07:02:57 AM »

Steady as a rock with one tie down strap. Stayed like this three days while I waited to get a tire mounted

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0leman
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Posts: 2292


Klamath Falls, Or


« Reply #14 on: April 23, 2020, 08:02:45 AM »

My bike goes on a wood adapter, then on a Sears jack.  It goes high enough to remove the rear wheel with the whole fender on.  Each engine guard is supported by a jack stand.  It is stable, and I feel quite safe.

I use jack stands on the engine guard all the time.   I do have a stay on the bike bracket that was purchased before M-T started making his and use a typical motorcycle style jack.  I jack the bike up to allow the tire to roll under/around the fender, then lower it to mount it on  the axel.   Takes a few more minutes to raise/lower jack stands but I feel it safer.
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Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #15 on: April 23, 2020, 08:54:06 AM »

I use jack stands on the engine guard all the time.  


Me, too.  The first time I dropped the tire and drive unit, and the bike slowly began to fall forward off the jack was more excitement than I care for.  

Woah, woah, woah, where do you thing you're going????  

If I'm just washing it or doing some little jobs, I don't use the jack stand (I only use one).  
« Last Edit: April 23, 2020, 08:56:29 AM by Jess from VA » Logged
..
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #16 on: April 23, 2020, 10:01:28 AM »


Me, too.  The first time I dropped the tire and drive unit, and the bike slowly began to fall forward off the jack was more excitement than I care for.  


Once done never repeated.  Grin
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F6Dave
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Posts: 2260



« Reply #17 on: April 23, 2020, 11:30:17 AM »

I use jack stands on the engine guard all the time.  


Me, too.  The first time I dropped the tire and drive unit, and the bike slowly began to fall forward off the jack was more excitement than I care for.  

Woah, woah, woah, where do you thing you're going????  

If I'm just washing it or doing some little jobs, I don't use the jack stand (I only use one).  


Same here.  Jack stands under the crash bars make it solid as a rock.
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