1998 Vaikyrie Tourer gas tank removal

[Tom Turnbaugh]

I am trying to remove the gas tank on my 1998 Valkyrie Tourer to be able to replace the air filter. Any suggestion on how to get the tank up from the frame to disconnect three three rubber lines (one gas) attached to the bottom of the tank? Even if I can disconnect them, I can't see how I would ever reconnect them for reassembly.

Tom Turnbaugh

[The emperor has no clothes]

1) remove petcock selector from the petcock with a long Phillips screwdriver inside the selector.

[Jess from VA]

It's even better if you use the correct JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdriver on that petcock.  Not that phillips won't work, but don't bugger the screw.  (All phillips screws on the bike are JIS)

Then, with the tank bolts off, at least on my interstate tanks, there is just enough room to lift the rear of the tank enough to slide a piece of 2x4 on it's side between the tank and the frame.  Then you can work on unhooking the fuel/vent lines using both hands.  One of those led headband lamps is useful too.

[Hook#3287]

It's even better if you use the correct JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdriver on that petcock.

The OEM tool kit has one.

I can't see how I would ever reconnect them for reassembly.

It takes patience.  A set of long needle nose pliers helps.

I do away with the small hose clamps on the vent and petcock vacuum hoses. More of a PITA than their worth.

Make sure the vent hose is not pinched after tank reinstall.

1) remove petcock selector from the petcock with a long Phillips screwdriver inside the selector.

Do this first and last and be gentle.

[Gregory Scott 16248]

If you have a aftermarket chrome cover around your fuel selector switch and another chrome cover around the ignition switch you may need to remove them to get at the fuel line clamp. The fuel line is very short and hard to work with getting that fuel line spring clamp off with needle nose pliers. I replaced my fuel line spring clamp to a radiator hose clamp which is easier to work with than the needle nose spring clamp.

Greg

[Chrisj CMA]

First off it’s easy. If you tell yourself it’s a hard job you will be right.

1. Unscrew secret screw on petcock switch and disconnect it from the fuel valve. It can just hang there

2. Remove  front and back bolts

3. Use a long flathead screwdriver to pop the two hoses off the petcock

4 prop the rear of the tank up with a piece of wood. Pop off the vent line

Note:  Have a pad ready for the tank so you know where to set it when you pull it off, don’t yank hard as the petcock can get temporarily hung on the frame and junk there. Just be ready for that and lift the tank off. Even a full tank is only the weight of a five gallon gas can.

[George B]

I might add, if you have an aftermarket non-vacuum fuel valve, put a cap on the hose fitting in case you accidentally turn the valve when removing the tank. Luckily when I found this to be easy to do, my tank was empty for the most part. 

[Valkorado]

All suggestions good.  In addition to long needle nose pliers, I have a couple huge medical hemostats.  I prefer them for this "operation".

I have several sizes, use 8" and 12" a lot.  Handy for lots of stuff.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Long-Locking-Hemostat-Straight-Clamp-Stainless-Steel-Surgical-Medical-Type/223100893067?hash=item33f1d9778b:g:yowAAOSwBsNbcPkc&redirect=mobile

And the pad or towel idea, yes!  I have had a near full tank in my arms only to realize I forgot to put a soft towel down first!

[RonW]

As meathead, et al. said, disconnect fuel selector (7). This allows you to tilt up the aft end of the fuel tank and remove (1) and (28) the best you can.

Vacuum tube (5) is disconnected from the Right side of the bike. *The following is theoretical not per manual. On install, you have to use pliers to connect vacuum tube (5) back to its spout which to me damages the vacuum tube's rubber little by little. So, I prefer to disconnect the vacuum tube at its bottom end where the vacuum tube can be slipped back on by hand.

The bottom end of the vacuum tube plugs into chrome intake runner No. 6 which is the rear most intake runner on the Left side of the bike. However, I switched it over to intake runner No. 5. which is the rear most intake runner but on the Right side of the bike. It's easier to fish the vacuum tube down to No. 5 runner when reinstalling the fuel tank than it is to fish the vacuum tube down to the No. 6 runner.





I suggest you don't pry up the aft end of the fuel tank more than is necessary or jerk the tank around. Lifting the fuel tank pulls fuel hose No. 15 along with it before No. 15 is disconnected.

No. 15 is connected to a t-fitting (red arrows, bottom pic.). The branches of the t-fitting are connected to the fuel rails at X, below. Thusly, you end up putting stress the fuel rail's o-ring joints if you pry up the fuel tank too high while No. 15 is still tethered to the fuel tank. In the inset photo, you can see my fuel rails are damp. The telltale sign of a fuel leak. (True, the cause of the leak is debatable.)

[Gizmo]

Some great tips here that I wish I'd read before I did mine yesterday.

I'll add two that were useful to me.

- I found the tank had a tendency to slide off the bike as I messed around with it.
Putting a 2x4 under the stand and levelling the bike helped keep the tank centred.

- A REALLY good light source to focus on the petcock from the side really helped my poor eyesight.

I have a chrome trim piece over the front tank bolt. It needed the front of the tank pulled back to come out and allow the tank to come off. If you have one of these, put it somewhere obvious so you don't forget to put it back before you've put the rear tank bolt in as I did.

[Boslager86]

Tom, suggestions all great. I purchased a copy of the Clymer Maintenance, Troubleshooting and Repairs book for Honda GL1500C (1997-2003) , which can be searched under ISBN : 0-89287-885-1. It has all of these procedures by the numbers and with photos. Always best to have the manual ...

[Chrisj CMA]

Tom, suggestions all great. I purchased a copy of the Clymer Maintenance, Troubleshooting and Repairs book for Honda GL1500C (1997-2003) , which can be searched under ISBN : 0-89287-885-1. It has all of these procedures by the numbers and with photos. Always best to have the manual ...

I gave away my clymer manual. Hated it. Honda shop guide is much better in my opinion. If you have a clymer it is A book. Having a book is better than no book. However, its not “the” book. Even the Honda manual has some minor glitches but it’s THE book.

[da prez]

 Gizmo , a good idea. I go one better. I made a step up block for the kickstand. 3/4 inch steps after a 2x4 base. I put a short jack stand under the right engine guard and level the bike with my block.
  Having the bike level makes a lot of things easier and with the jack stand , lea likely to fall over.

                                         da prez

[0leman]

Gizmo , a good idea. I go one better. I made a step up block for the kickstand. 3/4 inch steps after a 2x4 base. I put a short jack stand under the right engine guard and level the bike with my block.
  Having the bike level makes a lot of things easier and with the jack stand , lea likely to fall over.

                                         da prez

When I pull the tank, I put a my motorcycle jack under the bike lift it a bit up so I can put jack stands under the crash bars, then lower it a bit.  Rock steady and bike is more or less level.  Don't have to worry about tank shifting nor falling over. 

[Chrisj CMA]

I don’t understand this tank falling off the bike problem. I remove many tanks with the bike on the side stand. Full or empty doesn’t matter. Just unbolt it disconnect and lift it off.

[Jess from VA]

I don’t understand this tank falling off the bike problem. I remove many tanks with the bike on the side stand. Full or empty doesn’t matter. Just unbolt it disconnect and lift it off.

Well you have to be willing to set down your beer for a few seconds.  

In my experience, the problem is not knocking the tank off the bike, it's clearing the floor completely of trip hazards between the bike and the place you plan to set the tank.    

[9Ball]

I don’t understand this tank falling off the bike problem. I remove many tanks with the bike on the side stand. Full or empty doesn’t matter. Just unbolt it disconnect and lift it off.

Well you have to be willing to set down your beer for a few seconds.  

In my experience, the problem is not knocking the tank off the bike, it's clearing the floor completely of trip hazards between the bike and the place you plan to set the tank.    

That could get ugly real quick....