John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15204
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« on: May 13, 2020, 07:47:21 PM » |
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I'm finding the majority of the main and slow speed jets won't come out. Probably been there since it left the factory, I just know they're not moving. Right now I'm soaking them with some rather potent penetrating oil in hopes it will soak through. I'm using the All Balls kit which has new mains and slows in it but won't help if I can get the old ones out and in looking at them....they need replacing. Any suggestions on how to break them loose without breaking any parts? Wondering if I applied some heat with a soldering gun on the outside of the housing they fit in....any thoughts? Kinda holding up progress at the moment.
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Dusty
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« Reply #1 on: May 13, 2020, 08:24:39 PM » |
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Heat on aluminum gives good expansion. I would use a paint heat gun or hair dryer or propane torch. Good Luck
Dusty
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Jims99
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« Reply #2 on: May 14, 2020, 05:31:00 AM » |
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I have used gum cutter from berkebile. Sometimes auto store has it. It will destroy any gasket and o-ring it touches but works great. I had my 63 galaxy carb was completely frozen, sprayed it down and the next day everything moved almost like new. I buy it by the case and share it with a few mechanic friends. Amazon has the best prices. If you still have trouble, try this. Good luck.
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The light at the end of the tunnel, is a train.
99 tourer
00 interstate
97 standard
91 wing
78 trail 70
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Forge
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« Reply #3 on: May 14, 2020, 07:06:25 AM » |
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The first valk I bought was like that. I broke 4 pilot jets trying to get them out. The lip on one side broke off of each while using a regular screwdriver. It may have been different if I had used a hollow ground as it would have distributed the force more evenly. Either way, I was able to remove the mains and emulsion tubes. Then, I put vice grips on the broken pilot jets and broke them loose. My pilot screws were also seized and ended up mostly rounding off. I soaked them with PB Blaster overnight and using the pilot tool from Redeye, I lightly tapped them with a small hammer and they budged. I had to work them back and forth, but they came out. Slotting them afterwards was the best thing I ever did as well as putting antiseize on them.
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15204
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #4 on: May 14, 2020, 10:37:38 AM » |
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Heat on aluminum gives good expansion. I would use a paint heat gun or hair dryer or propane torch. Good Luck
Dusty
OK....never thought of a heat gun. I have one of those and if soaking with penetrating oil overnight didn't do the job I'll get out the gun. |
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Avanti
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« Reply #5 on: May 14, 2020, 01:55:02 PM » |
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When I work on anything that has Slotted Screws like a piano or a set of clockworks that need great care in removal of the fasteners, I first grind, than file and finally hone the driver to fit before any attempt of removal.
This is not 100% fool proof, but helps greatly.
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15204
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #6 on: May 14, 2020, 07:54:36 PM » |
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Had good luck today, seems the application of some good penetrating oil last night made the difference cuz the jets that didn't want to come out did so today.
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Dusty
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« Reply #7 on: May 14, 2020, 08:00:38 PM » |
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Had good luck today, seems the application of some good penetrating oil last night made the difference cuz the jets that didn't want to come out did so today.
 Dusty |
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dpcarson
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« Reply #8 on: May 15, 2020, 05:52:55 AM » |
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PB Blaster soak and sea foam deep creep have both worked very well for me in the past. After an evening soak I have never had one stick beyond removing. I had more problems with the bowl cover screws than anything else.
Are you replacing all he carb jets John?
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"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" In war, there are no unwounded soldiers.  |
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15204
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #9 on: May 15, 2020, 06:32:42 PM » |
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PB Blaster soak and sea foam deep creep have both worked very well for me in the past. After an evening soak I have never had one stick beyond removing. I had more problems with the bowl cover screws than anything else.
Are you replacing all he carb jets John?
Yes, mains, slow, and the mixtures. Putting the body and miscellaneous small parts in the ultrasonic heated bath for about 30 min. at peak temp of 80 deg., comes out clean and hot. Blow it dry and through all passages with an air hose. Replacing all o-rings on everything, so far only found one air cut valve bad but still have two carbs to go. Have all the left side done except for installing the needles(new in the kit) and the associated parts. After soaking the frame and stubborn jets they all came apart with no trouble. This set of borrowed carbs have stock needle springs and my bike has I/S springs. Debating on whether to order new I/S springs or remove them from my current set on the bike. Waiting to chk. the last two air cut valves to see if I have to order more than one before finishing ass'y. I'm in no hurry, not planning on traveling until late June. |
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Jack B
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« Reply #10 on: May 16, 2020, 04:41:52 AM » |
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I'm in no hurry, not planning on traveling until late June.
[/quote]
Great weather is finally here John time to get her done and go for a ride.
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Let’s RIDE
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15204
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #11 on: May 17, 2020, 08:04:15 PM » |
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Jack, got the left side done and half the right side cleaned. Just working at it a little at a time, strange it's taking so long on these. I rebuilt the 4 carbs on the GL1200 project in just a couple days and those carbs are very similar.
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