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Author Topic: Seal Doctor  (Read 1359 times)
indybobm
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Posts: 1600

Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« on: June 02, 2020, 08:59:22 AM »

i have used Seal mate many times with good results. I am thinking about trying the Seal doctor. Is there room to use this if i take the chrome guard off or do i have to remove the fender?
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2020, 10:13:04 AM »

I just did this this week with the (overpriced) Seal Doctor.  Two nuts on the inside of the fender to remove the chrome guard, and you're good to go, quick and easy.  Fender stays in place.
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F6Dave
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Posts: 2260



« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2020, 10:13:55 AM »

You don't have to remove a thing.  The Doctor is great because it lets you easily clean the entire circumference of the seal evenly and thoroughly.  I have fixed several serious leaks with the tool.
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RonW
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Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2020, 01:03:53 PM »

Removing the chrome guard allows you to clean the top of the fork holder and rust specks on the fork tube. The top fork doesn't reciprocate far enough down such that the rust specs impact the seals, but you want to knock of the rust specs before they grow larger (inset pic).

Nuts (6) *can* be reached through the narrow space between the fender and wheel. If memory serves. Easier with a ratchet wrench.


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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
indybobm
Member
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Posts: 1600

Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2020, 01:44:22 PM »

I have removed that guard many times and it is not easy to get that top nut back on. Maybe I could talk my wife into getting it started.
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
F6Dave
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Posts: 2260



« Reply #5 on: June 02, 2020, 02:33:47 PM »

I can see where that kind of cleaning might be beneficial in some climates.  I live in Colorado, which is fairly dry, and I've never had any corrosion on the forks.  And I've ridden about 700,000 miles!

I do clean the 'back side' of the fork sliders from time to time, mainly to remove any crud (like bug parts) that might damage the seals.  I clean them with a long, narrow strip of cloth dampened with WD-40 or silicone spray.  I wrap the strip around the slider and work it back and forth for a while.  It cleans the sliders very well, and I don't have to remove those darn guards!
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Gryphon Rider
Member
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #6 on: June 03, 2020, 09:25:17 AM »

The bottom nut is easiest turned with a 1/2" ratchet; the top nut with a GearWrench wrench.  I didn't have an issue getting either nut started.
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Jess from VA
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Posts: 30407


No VA


« Reply #7 on: June 03, 2020, 11:14:05 AM »

A quarter inch ratchet (10mm), on one end and box wrench on the other (can't remember which).

Tiny fingers help.

And never forget the copper anti-seize on reassembly. 
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RonW
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Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #8 on: June 03, 2020, 11:33:09 AM »

The chrome guards have welded studs.
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
gordonv
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Posts: 5760


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #9 on: June 04, 2020, 02:46:38 PM »

I have removed that guard many times and it is not easy to get that top nut back on. Maybe I could talk my wife into getting it started.

The nut into a ratchet wrench, and some tape on the outside to hold it in place.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

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