Fuel Leak in Fuel Rails, Please Help.

[daniel31081]

I recently purchased a 98 Valkyrie California model with about 24k miles, during last couple of months I noticed some that the bike could not run without having the choke on for several minutes. This issue become worse after this last winter. After doing some preliminary research, I decided to perform a carburetor cleaning. The major finding on the carburetors were heavy greenish buildup in the low speed and high speed jets. After cleaning the carbs, I only changed the bowls gasket, floating needle, and mixing screw spring, washer, and o-ring. Almost all of the parts were purchase were purchase from https://redeye.ecrater.com/, the floating needles were purchase on a reputable source in amazon.

It is important to mention that this was my first ever carburetor dissemble and cleaning experience, I primarily followed video instructions from D-Ray Smith youtube channel (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDLTpQCTBsc).

After assembling the bike and starting up for testing, I noticed large fuel leaks pudding under the carbs. It seems that the leak was coming from the fuel rails and possible from carb number 6 (third closer to the driver seat on the left). After turning off the bike, the leak continue at much lower rate  from fuel rail (about a drop every minute or so). I am planning on taking apart the carburetors again and replacing the o-ring in the fuel rails and also inspecting the bowl gaskets (I am not sure if I should replace them). When installing the bowl viton gaskets, i did not add any glue, I am not sure if I needed to place any glue to add extra layer of seal. Is there anything else that I should take into consideration to prevent a leak again? I would hate to take apart the carbs for a third time.

Also, because the bike is a California model, it has extra hoses for emission and vacuum. Is there any updated information on getting parts to desmog? RedEye used to have a nice kit, but it is unavailable.

In advance, all of your comments and responses are greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[Foozle]

06-08

First off, make sure where the leak is coming from (don't ask how I know). 

From your post, it's unclear if you replaced the fuel rail O-rings during your initial disassembly.  If not, you may want to purchase the complete RedEye kit and replace all the rubber parts while you have the carbs off the bike.  As you suggest, it's not a process one wants to frequently repeat.

As for using adhesive on the bowl gaskets, I've done two sets of carbs using the RedEye kits - and used glue on one set and nothing (no glue) on the other.  As of today, I've seen no difference.  In either case, just make sure all the old adhesive is removed - and the mating surfaces are clean.  Also, be sure to use the recommended adhesive, if you choose to go this route.

Terry

[luftkoph]

I would email redeye he might just have not updated his site

[bikerboy1951]

Another issue with the California bikes is the cams.  They are retarded almost a tooth from the 49 state bikes.

Brad

[Morse]

Daniel, I had the same issue with a 98 Valk with 36,000 miles I bought this last year.  Mine had been sitting for four years and all the rubber parts (except 5 of the diaphragms thankfully) had turned to stone. The rail o-rings crumbled when I took them out so they definitely can go bad. They aren't that bad to change though.  Sometimes they will shrink if no gas has touched them for a long time, before taking it all apart see if they might have swelled back up and sealed again.

This is going to be a long response...

This is how I did it:
-I bought the redeye fuel rail kit, it's under $20.

-After taking out the long connecting rods that keep the carbs together and disconnecting the rail that runs between the left and right banks' throttles I tried to just take one carb off at a time, it makes it much easier putting them back together that way.

-Using a muffin tin to keep the springs and little pieces in is a good idea.

-When you take off each carb make sure to remember which springs were where and be careful because some of them want to fly.

-I took advantage of them being separated to really clean each individual carb.  It's also a good idea to check your air cut-off valves (the black plastic piece with the vacuum tube).  Those tubes are a real pain to change with the carbs together but easy when apart.  There are also o-rings under the black plastic piece that you might want to consider changing (mine crumbled when pulled apart)

- to pull them apart I used a razor blade and inserted it into the crease where the connecting rods ran through.  There are steel dowels in there and they seize to the aluminum sometimes.  Redeye gives replacement plastic dowels that won't seize but most of mine wouldn't come out so i put anti-seize on where I could to help with next time.   WD40 and PB blaster are a big help.

-After the razor I went to a flat blade and then to coins.  The coins work particularly well as you can stack them and twist them to get the right leverage.  If you are worried about dinging the carbs use something softer like a popsicle stick maybe.

-If you want to pry between the carbs make sure to use something soft, like a rubber handle of a screwdriver, and be careful.  The carbs are aluminum and can get holes or bend.

-Wiggling helps more than anything.

-after replacing the o-rings on the rails run the connecting rod back through and use the nuts on either end to tighten the bank back together before removing the next carb.  Be very careful the rails are lined up before tightening the nuts, they're plastic and can break.   

-If I remember right some of the springs for the syncing screws will come out when doing this.  Make sure they get back in correctly and don't get squished or cocked.  Try not to turn those screws unless the carbs need syncing.

For your other questions I never used glue, it makes it a real pain next time you want to get in there.  I found it's easiest to put the bowl gasket on the carb, in about the right configuration, then set the bowl on top of it.  Wiggle it until the bowl falls down around the gasket, then tighten it up.  This is with the carbs off and upside down.

For desmogging, if you're in a pinch you can either use 14mm freeze plugs in where the tubes go into the engine on top or cut the tubes and fill the hole with solder or jb weld (the freeze plugs don't work on the tube underneath).  There are lots of posts about doing it with freeze plugs or solder/jb on here. 

What i did to de-smog was take the pair valve and reed valves out and leave the metal tubes.  I used the fuel line that connects the reeds to the tubes and stopped them up with a bolt and rtv, then put hose clamps on the fuel lines to keep them on the metal tubes.  It's not particularly pretty but it works.  You'll need vacuum caps on the intakes to replace the lines that used to run to carb 3 and 4.

[Morse]

I should mention I have a non-CA valk and don't know much about the CA ones, so some of the info on the de-smog might not be right for your bike.