Electrical issue !?!?!?

[measheaw]

Hey fellas I’m pretty new to the forum so I’m not sure if this has been addressed but. Recently I’ve been having trouble getting my 99 tourer ct1500 started once it gets started it runs really well like there’s no issues. Well today I go to start the bike and nothing I turn the key and no lights come on or anything it’s like there’s no power going to the bike. I put the battery on the charger and still nothing so I don’t think it’s the battery. I’m not very experienced with the bike at all as I’ve only had for a year now and this is the first issue I’ve ever had with it. Bike has 23000 miles on it. 

[Jersey]

Hi and Welcome to the Group!

This is unusual for a bike with low miles like yours.  But to get into it...

-Check the Battery terminal connectors.  Clean well and use dielectrc
-Check the Battery Ground connection to the Frame.  Clean and reconnect.
-Check Start switch contacts in the right handlebar switch.  Clean & dielectric
-Check  Starter wire connections (Both Pos and Ground).  Clean...

I'm assuming you've check all the fuses and relays already. 

What often happens is the wire connections and switch contacts will get oxidized and won't pass the amperage necessary to turn over the starter.

Do you know the bike's history?  Where/how was it used or stored?

Keep us updated and I'm sure many others will lend their wise advice.

Cheers,
Jersey

[Jess from VA]

Make sure the kill switch is not killed.  Or you aren't making a mistake with the neutral, clutch and kickstand down switches.

Then, if it's not the battery, it's very likely the start switch button.  (the headlights on with the key on causes a big draw through the Tourer start switch, though when you hit start button the headlights go out)

[gordonv]

99 tourer ct1500 started once it gets started it runs really well like there’s no issues. Well today I go to start the bike and nothing I turn the key and no lights come on or anything it’s like there’s no power going to the bike.

Welcome to the forum measheaw.

Always start with the easy things first, before tearing into it.

First thing, the kill switch. Still the same, then get a known good battery (your daily driver) and put the jumpers between the 2 vehicles (car not running), and try starting again.

If it starts, then it's your battery. It could be as simple as a loose connection.

No joy, now we have some fun.

turn the key and no lights come on or anything it’s like there’s no power going to the bike

Since you have a Tourer, the most common is the starter switch, which gives exactly the above issue, no power. Even if it isn't, I would look at doing the maintenance anyways, since the bike is old and unused.
In Shoptalk, which has how-to,
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/VSGPages/starterbutton.htm

Get back to use with what you find out. Then we can direct you from there.

Do you have a volt meter? The Service Manual?
http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html
Check out the Shoptalk section, and the above Valkyrie Norway, for more information and interest.

One last thing, add your location to your profile, you might find someone close by to you for support and/or rides.

[larue]

Welcome here brother. Check the 55A fuse under the right side cover if sitting on the bike. It’s big rectangular black box the fuse inside it look like a dog bone and if split it kills the bike, also check your stated selinoid It’s there too, squared green unit with a red plug on top sitting in a little rubber pouch , undo it and look for melted plastic or corrosion, check the big 30A green fuse on it. usually my culprit. Good luck  

[Chrisj CMA]

Welcome here brother. Check the 33A fuse under the right side cover if sitting on the bike. It’s big rectangular black box the fuse inside it look like a dog bone and if split it kills the bike, also check your stated selinoid It’s there too, squared green unit with a red plug on top sitting in a little rubber pouch , undo it and look for melted plastic or corrosion, check the big 30A green fuse on it. usually my culprit. Good luck  

The 55A fuseable link will nit stop the bike from starting if it’s blown. You will just have no charging from the alternator.

Check battery and ground connections, jump you car. If no luck do the starter button maintenance. Make sure the brass contact us free yo bounce up and down on its firing in the slot

[da prez]

Post your home town. We won't tell. There is a member near you that will help.

               da prez

[John Schmidt]

I caution you about using dielectric grease....it's generally nonconductive. You can use it on the ouside of connections to prevent corrosion from moisture invasion, but put enough on the actual contacts and you may well have insulated them from each other.

[Jersey]

I caution you about using dielectric grease....it's generally nonconductive. You can use it on the ouside of connections to prevent corrosion from moisture invasion, but put enough on the actual contacts and you may well have insulated them from each other.

Have you had that happen?  Not to question your concern, but I've never come across dielectric grease insulating electrical contacts.  Just curious what your experiences are.

[Valker]

I caution you about using dielectric grease....it's generally nonconductive. You can use it on the ouside of connections to prevent corrosion from moisture invasion, but put enough on the actual contacts and you may well have insulated them from each other.

Have you had that happen?  Not to question your concern, but I've never come across dielectric grease insulating electrical contacts.  Just curious what your experiences are.

Dielectric is DESIGNED to insulate. It is to waterproof connections AFTER they are connected.

[John Schmidt]

I caution you about using dielectric grease....it's generally nonconductive. You can use it on the ouside of connections to prevent corrosion from moisture invasion, but put enough on the actual contacts and you may well have insulated them from each other.

Have you had that happen?  Not to question your concern, but I've never come across dielectric grease insulating electrical contacts.  Just curious what your experiences are.

Dielectric is DESIGNED to insulate. It is to waterproof connections AFTER they are connected.

Correct. And it was used extensively on the cam in the old points/condenser distributor to lube the cam surface. You didn't want normal grease slinging off and creating a short in the points. As to the question re. personal experience....yes. Not of my doing but that of someone else that had covered the pins inside a connector and couldn't figure out what the problem was when done with his little project. I cleaned it all off, reconnected the wiring and tested it....it worked fine then so I covered the exterior for future protection. I've run into this scenario more than once due to people not understanding the purpose & limitations of that type of grease. Here's a good explanation/definition:

Dielectric grease(snippet from the web);
Dielectric grease, or tune-up grease, is a silicone-based grease that repels moisture and protects electrical connections against corrosion. The grease does not conduct electricity, so it shouldn't be applied directly to the mating surfaces (pins and sockets) of an electrical connection.

As an afterthought, I recall one person(a relative actually) decided to clean the junk off his battery posts and at the same time went through and cleaned and greased all his ground connections from the body to the motor and from the battery to the motor. He greased the ends of each cable, some were braided type ground straps, then reattached them. It was an old car(late 40's) he had from childhood and was trying to do a bit of restoration so as to keep it in the family. He could only get half of everything to work about half the time and was ready to junk it. We got to talking about it during a small family gathering and we went to take a look at it. After some frank advice and action on his part cleaning the grease off between the connection points, he was thrilled with the results....everything worked all the time.

So, do as you like in using it but it's not meant to be used directly on contact points. It works great when used for the purpose for which it was designed.  

Another afterthought; On many old cars with the old points/condenser ignition, you get caught in the rain it was not unusual for your motor to die on you due to moisture getting in the distributor, especially if you hit a couple good puddles. I used to use copious amounts of that grease around each plug wire and the coil wire where it entered the distributor cap, plus smear some on the edge of the distributor before clamping the rotor in place. Also smeared some around the coil wire coming from the coil itself. The result was it kept the moisture out without compromising the operation of the ignition thereby allowing you to drive in wet weather.

[measheaw]

Thanks for all the input and help guys

i cleaned all he terminals and switches and still nothing. i had a buddy come over with his battery tester and it looks like the battery isn't holding any charge at all. which is weird because the battery is fairly new so I'm gonna get a new battery today and see if that works.

Again thanks for all the help! just reading post within this forum the last day or two has helped me to learn so much about my bike

[gordonv]

i cleaned all he terminals and switches and still nothing. i had a buddy come over with his battery tester and it looks like the battery isn't holding any charge at all. which is weird because the battery is fairly new so I'm gonna get a new battery today and see if that works.

OK, but have you actually followed the advise?

Did you try jump starting it?

As for the battery "isn't holding any charge", are you saying your battery is dead, or it isn't being charged?

This is why I said there is a procedure to do this. Why clean the switches/leads, if you don't have a working battery? If you don't have a working battery, why? Not being charged by the alternator (blown dog bone 55A main fuse [spare is in the block on the lid]), or a non functioning battery?

From your write up above, you've gone to step 3 and 4, before doing 1 and 2. You have to go back to the beginning and start from the 1st.

[Jersey]

I caution you about using dielectric grease....it's generally nonconductive. You can use it on the ouside of connections to prevent corrosion from moisture invasion, but put enough on the actual contacts and you may well have insulated them from each other.

Have you had that happen?  Not to question your concern, but I've never come across dielectric grease insulating electrical contacts.  Just curious what your experiences are.

Dielectric is DESIGNED to insulate. It is to waterproof connections AFTER they are connected.

Correct. And it was used extensively on the cam in the old points/condenser distributor to lube the cam surface. You didn't want normal grease slinging off and creating a short in the points. As to the question re. personal experience....yes. Not of my doing but that of someone else that had covered the pins inside a connector and couldn't figure out what the problem was when done with his little project. I cleaned it all off, reconnected the wiring and tested it....it worked fine then so I covered the exterior for future protection. I've run into this scenario more than once due to people not understanding the purpose & limitations of that type of grease. Here's a good explanation/definition:

Dielectric grease(snippet from the web);
Dielectric grease, or tune-up grease, is a silicone-based grease that repels moisture and protects electrical connections against corrosion. The grease does not conduct electricity, so it shouldn't be applied directly to the mating surfaces (pins and sockets) of an electrical connection.

As an afterthought, I recall one person(a relative actually) decided to clean the junk off his battery posts and at the same time went through and cleaned and greased all his ground connections from the body to the motor and from the battery to the motor. He greased the ends of each cable, some were braided type ground straps, then reattached them. It was an old car(late 40's) he had from childhood and was trying to do a bit of restoration so as to keep it in the family. He could only get half of everything to work about half the time and was ready to junk it. We got to talking about it during a small family gathering and we went to take a look at it. After some frank advice and action on his part cleaning the grease off between the connection points, he was thrilled with the results....everything worked all the time.

So, do as you like in using it but it's not meant to be used directly on contact points. It works great when used for the purpose for which it was designed.  

Another afterthought; On many old cars with the old points/condenser ignition, you get caught in the rain it was not unusual for your motor to die on you due to moisture getting in the distributor, especially if you hit a couple good puddles. I used to use copious amounts of that grease around each plug wire and the coil wire where it entered the distributor cap, plus smear some on the edge of the distributor before clamping the rotor in place. Also smeared some around the coil wire coming from the coil itself. The result was it kept the moisture out without compromising the operation of the ignition thereby allowing you to drive in wet weather.

Thanks for all that.  This is very interesting.  I'm going to re-research this. Might learn something new.  I will say, for 50+ years all I've seen and known is to use a 'little' bit of dielectric grease on the contacts.  This was reinforced from a wide range of people, auto mechanics to my ham radio community.  The thinking was that the pressure created between the contacts (based on the design) would ensure the metal pieces touched, while the grease would insulate the contact points from moisture/air.  Again, this based on using just a little bit.  Based on what you're saying, I could see why my experience may not have produced issues because only a small amount was used.  I have some more reading ahead of me!

Again, very interesting and thanks for the info!
Jersey