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Author Topic: Replacing sub-panel  (Read 662 times)
scooperhsd
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Posts: 5720

Kansas City KS


« on: July 20, 2020, 11:51:15 AM »

Any electricians here ?

Ok - so  MIL's house has a subpanel in the workshop that I want to replace - need more circuits in the kitchen upstairs. I know there is 240V mains going to it, and I'm fairly confident that there is at least a ground wire back to the main panel. What I'm not so sure about is a neutral - I see there are 120V circuits in the subpanel, but  - are they connected to ground, or do they have a neutral to the main panel ?  If there is no neutral wire, can I connect the neutral bar to the ground bar in the new panel ? If I knew who manufactured a Sears Roebuck panel I would do some exploring to see if a 30 amp 240 circuit was still in use and replace the breaker with what I need. I know there are some twin 120V breakers (two 120V circuits in the space of a single full size breaker, same amp rating) in the panel.

BTW, the new circuits SHOULD have ground as well as neutral (early 1950's house - lots of 2 wire 120V circuits without grounds). One of the new circuits will be for a gas range to replace an electric range (and no - the 240v to 120V plug in conversion adapter won't work - it has a Hot-Hot Ground plug - no neutral)

TIA for the assistance .
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Robert
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Posts: 17009


S Florida


« Reply #1 on: July 21, 2020, 04:20:49 AM »

 Many old houses on 240 used three wire on a 240 since it was a balanced load or it was just a service panel. But it is not the way to do it, since code will require running a neutral and ground. But it all starts with what do you have coming into the panel. If you pull the cover off you may find it has three wire with a ground. But no I would not just run the neutral and ground together.


Fully explained in this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlVhS7wSZtw
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“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
bill-jr
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Posts: 1035


VRCC # 35094

murfreesboro


« Reply #2 on: July 21, 2020, 07:14:32 PM »

Good things to know are wire size ran to this “sub-panel” and or breaker its being fed from
How many amps already being used and and how much more you need to add ?!?
You need a hot and neutral to make 120v work its the ground that people like to forget,
 its your protection . .
1st point of entry the neutrals and grounds are connected after that they need to be separated . . .
You kinda lost me on the whole 30 amp sears and would just change to what you need ? ? ?
Also open it up Take pics pics are gonna help. . .

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Ever danced with the devil In the pale moon light ?
99' Black tourer
scooperhsd
Member
*****
Posts: 5720

Kansas City KS


« Reply #3 on: July 21, 2020, 07:48:42 PM »

Been talking on a Home improvement forum about this. Pretty much have it all figured out by now.

Currently, there is a 40 amp 240V feeder to the subpanel. I'm going to be replacing the breaker and wiring to support 50 amp. The insides of the current panel are a mess - Neutrals and grounds sharing the same bar. After I get the panel replaced (and the current circuits inside fixed), I'm installing 3 appliance 120v 20amp circuits (don't worry - it won't be using anything near that most of the time). I'm planning on being able to replace the current electric range with a gas one.
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