Help with rear caliper bracket rubbing inside of rotor.

[Timbo1]

Hello,

As the topic says the problem I have is the caliper bracket is rubbing on the inside of the rotor at the top.  This is after I did final drive maintenance, replaced the o-rings with Redeye's kit.  But I also switched out the wheel for another I had with better rubber.  I moved the rotor from the original wheel to the wheel I was putting on and the drive spline as well as the big plastic washer / spacer.   It's almost as if the splines in the wheel are going to far into the final drive but there is no extra space when putting the axle in so idk what I've done wrong or if the wheels are dimensions are different.  I plan on trying the old wheel tomorrow but would greatly appreciate any advice on what I may have done wrong or any way to be able to use this other wheel.  Thanks in advance.

[The emperor has no clothes]

There are 2 styles of wheels. If I remember correctly one has 1JJ casting, and the other has 2JJ. That sounds like possible issue.

[Timbo1]

Thanks,  I'll inspect them more thoroughly.  I knew there were 2 different type of wheel but thought I had read if the rotor bolt holes lined up they were the same. 

[The emperor has no clothes]

Thanks,  I'll inspect them more thoroughly.  I knew there were 2 different type of wheel but thought I had read if the rotor bolt holes lined up they were the same. 

I'm going from memory......but, I think as long as you use the rotor that goes with the wheel, you are good.

[hubcapsc]

Thanks,  I'll inspect them more thoroughly.  I knew there were 2 different type of wheel but thought I had read if the rotor bolt holes lined up they were the same. 

I think the holes always line up, if you put the wrong rotor on the wrong wheel, though, the rotor
won't be in the correct plane... causing the problem you describe...

-Mike

[Timbo1]

Thanks hubcapsc & meathead you both seem to indicate the same so I'll just put the original wheel & rotor back on today.  I kinda struggled doing it yesterday and still quite tired so IDK how many cups of coffee  it's gonna take me to get started for the day but I'll report back. 

Thanks again!

[hubcapsc]

Thanks hubcapsc & meathead you both seem to indicate the same so I'll just put the original wheel & rotor back on today.  I kinda struggled doing it yesterday and still quite tired so IDK how many cups of coffee  it's gonna take me to get started for the day but I'll report back. 

Thanks again!

Give a look to the wheels around where the rotor to see if you can determine
that is the problem... I'm not sure how much you can see with the wheel on and
rotor mounted, but probably you can see the letters embossed on the wheel and
maybe the different way the hub looks where the rotor mounts. It would be a
shame to do all that coffee drinking and wheel removing only to find out
that the wheels are the same... that they are probably different is the
common problem, though...

-Mike "actually, drink the coffee anyhow  "

[indybobm]

The marking is in the rotor 'well' It will be either 1J or 2J with 1J being the early wheel for 97-99 Stds and Tourers. The 2J is the later wheel for 99-03 Stds, Tourers and IS. Each requires the correct rotor. Early rotors use a different bolt to attach, with a rounded head. The rotors for 2J wheels are countersunk and flush when installed.

[Timbo1]

Looks like you all were right.  The original wheel is embossed 1J and the one I was trying to put on is 2J.  Have it removed so now I guess I need to swap the tire.  Thanks all for your help.

[SCain]

Or, you can put a 1/32 to 1/16 shim between the caliper bracket and the spacer. Basically a large washer is all you need. Many have done this over the years. I know some that have 100k on their valk using a washer. It needs to be a thin washer, 1/16 may even be too thick.

You need to do this when using a 97 to 98 wheel and a 99 and up rotor. Otherwise you will have to use the matching rotor for the wheel.

[pancho]

Or you could purchase a usable rotor for a 2J wheel,

 https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-GL1500-GL1500C-VALKYRIE-TOURER-ROTOR-REAR-BRAKE-DISC/392112648977?hash=item5b4bbc3311:g:Ip0AAOSwDxZbhe7D

[hubcapsc]

Or you could purchase a usable rotor for a 2J wheel,

 https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-GL1500-GL1500C-VALKYRIE-TOURER-ROTOR-REAR-BRAKE-DISC/392112648977?hash=item5b4bbc3311:g:Ip0AAOSwDxZbhe7D

I don't know anything about the particular ones available on ebay right now, but what Pancho
suggests is exactly what I did some number of years ago... my rear rotor had developed
quite a "lip"... I got a used ebay one in great shape for cheap and I've put lots of miles on it.

-Mike

[Pluggy]

Or you could purchase a usable rotor for a 2J wheel,

 https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-GL1500-GL1500C-VALKYRIE-TOURER-ROTOR-REAR-BRAKE-DISC/392112648977?hash=item5b4bbc3311:g:Ip0AAOSwDxZbhe7D

Might want to avoid that particular rotor and continue looking.  Is the caliper also picking up part of the lip in that photo?   Measured with a micrometer, that rotor might be at or below the recommended minimum.

[Timbo1]

Thanks all for the suggestions.  I went ahead and took both wheels to a local shop and had them swap tires.  Everything is back together and working as expected.

I probably will try to buy an extra rotor at some point for the 2J wheel.  But at this point my rotor has lot's of life left so I'm in no hurry to do that.

Shim suggestion would work fine as well.  If it comes down to that I believe I could get some precision washers from Mcmaster-Carr if needed.   Thanks again for all the suggestions.

[Ricky-D]

Shim suggestion would work fine as well.  If it comes down to that I believe I could get some precision washers from Mcmaster-Carr if needed.

Not to belabor the question but, do you know what that thickness should be?

Flat washers are stamped out of plate steel and will work just fine, they will all mic identical if bought in the same batch.

I just grabbed washers out of my supply and they worked fine.

You have to recognize that the caliper is a floating type and can adjust to the "off" distance (spacing).

It would only become more important (spacing) when the pads get worn down to the last bits.

Just wanted to get this out there.

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