Jess from VA
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« on: August 01, 2020, 07:27:23 AM » |
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I know this has be covered many times here, but my ability to research old threads is poor.
Neither of my '99 interstates has ever had any alternator problem, nor has either been serviced in any way.
The interstate in question has 107K.
It has the multi red-green led Kuryakyn idiot light on it. That bike idles a little below the 900rpm (when warm) called for in the manual, and it is not uncommon for the idiot light to go to (high) red sitting at lights, but a little blip of the throttle always makes it go green. (Even though the whole top half of the idiot light is all green leds, on both my bikes, the light never goes any higher than the lowest green led - and I recall others reporting this same thing over the years).
Because I've never had one problem with alternators, I don't routinely watch the idiot light, though I often do glance at it sitting at a long light idling.
The other day, after about 50 miles of a short ride, I looked down and it was red at idle. So I blipped the throttle and it stayed red, then I ran the bike to 4K+ and it stayed red. Crap!.
So I headed for home (not far). I watched it stay red (top red led, but not the lowest green, as usual). I had no other symptom of a failing alternator; no loss of interstate dash or radio (though I turned it off) (the dual headlights were on). Then, close to home, it went to the low green led again (like usual). But when I parked to put it in the shed, when I got back on to ride it in, i couldn't get a green again.
As soon as I plugged in my Battery Tender, I got a fully charged green light on it (it often shows red for just 20-30 seconds before green), so it didn't seem like the battery was low running with a broken or failing alternator.
Maybe it's the Kuryakyn idiot light (or it's wiring) and not the alternator (it's probably 10 years old or more) .
So I'm needing to test the alternator electronically and I need to know what the (amps or) volts are supposed to be when off, and when running. I do not have such a tester, but wouldn't Auto Zone have one, or what tester should I buy?
Thanks in advance.
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« Last Edit: August 01, 2020, 12:22:54 PM by Jess from VA »
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #1 on: August 01, 2020, 08:31:58 AM » |
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Just a simple volt meter. Put it directly to the battery. Near 13V off and +/- 14 when running
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gordonv
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Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #2 on: August 01, 2020, 08:32:42 AM » |
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Yes, it's time to check. I suspect it's the same thing that happened to me on my GW. The brushes, but after warming they worked again. Until they didn't. In the end, the brushes where dirty and not moving. Cleaning the brushes so they moved, was all it required. Get out a volt meter. Test the battery voltage (looking for in the 12V). Then start the bike and test again (idle, low 12-13V, 1500rpm 14V). We can get more detail as you go along, but I suspect that a cleaning or brush replacement is in order. It's actually very easy. Here is my alternator post. http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,107156.0.htmlshows how I did the brush replacement. One other thing for all. If you know your alternator isn't charging the battery, pull the fuse for your lights. Your battery will last longer. (unless you're riding at night  )
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« Last Edit: August 01, 2020, 08:52:16 AM by gordonv »
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #3 on: August 01, 2020, 10:18:31 AM » |
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Thanks guys.  When it cools down below Hades level, I'm gonna look into it. If anyone has a suggestion for a reasonable voltmeter (not one for the space shuttle), let me know.
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gordonv
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Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #5 on: August 01, 2020, 10:52:40 AM » |
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You just want something that tells you what you have, you aren't doing engineering, so Harbor Freight or some auto store, I would think $10-20. Something small, so you can carry it with you on the bike. I put in the battery every time I use it, and remove when done. Have the same meter my Bro gave me as a gift when I was 16. You could cheat and buy a new meter for your bike. I have one on my dash on the IS, tells me the V, air temp, time. I keep an eye on it to confirm I'm charging. The sooner you know when your alt fails, the sooner you pull the light fuse, and fix it at a city, rather than a tow on the Hwy. You can see it on the top.  (I was looking for the volt meter post, if I find I'll edit this) Just 2 wires, +/-. Not a great meter, but when you're done, you mount it on the bike instead of the volt meter lights you are currently using.
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« Last Edit: August 01, 2020, 10:55:38 AM by gordonv »
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #6 on: August 01, 2020, 12:11:35 PM » |
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You just want something that tells you what you have, you aren't doing engineering, so Harbor Freight or some auto store, I would think $10-20. Something small, so you can carry it with you on the bike. I put in the battery every time I use it, and remove when done. Have the same meter my Bro gave me as a gift when I was 16. You could cheat and buy a new meter for your bike. I have one on my dash on the IS, tells me the V, air temp, time. I keep an eye on it to confirm I'm charging. The sooner you know when your alt fails, the sooner you pull the light fuse, and fix it at a city, rather than a tow on the Hwy. You can see it on the top.  (I was looking for the volt meter post, if I find I'll edit this) Just 2 wires, +/-. Not a great meter, but when you're done, you mount it on the bike instead of the volt meter lights you are currently using. Once my bike went over 100,000 miles I figured I needed a volt meter on board. I had an Overtons catalog (boating supplies) so I figured a volt meter for a boat would be rugged and waterproof. It has been flawless for years. If you are going to add a meter on the bike I recommend regardless of the type that you run the wires directly to the battery. Tapping into any other circuit usually gives a lower reading than what is at the battery. I ran the power wire directly to the battery with an inline fuse. I used a 20a fuse so it wouldn't restrict any power. I ran a ground wire to the passenger seat bolt. When you do this the meter will be on period. It wont shut off with the key but that's a good thing. So I got a switch and wired it in the ground so again not to disturb the flow to the meter from the battery. The switch is on the nose panel. Now, I can turn the switch on anytime I want with the bike off to check the battery. Then when I start the bike its displays the output of the alternator. You do have to develop a habit of turning off the switch or you could come back to the bike and find you have a dead battery. A series of double checking and a solid shut down procedure insures I don't forget. Well I did once but not long enough to kill the battery.   I also have this meter I bought at Lowes for like $20 it has too many settings for me so I had someone who knows these things tell me what setting I needed and I marked it with a red and white V. lol Well it works great to check someone's bike that doesn't have a aux meter installed or to check power on any wire I may need to know if it has power or not. I also used it on Judy's SUV to make sure the alternator was working when we needed a new battery. 
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« Last Edit: August 01, 2020, 12:47:46 PM by Chrisj CMA »
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MarkT
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Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #7 on: August 01, 2020, 01:08:38 PM » |
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This might not be too helpful for Jess - I think VA is a commie state that says you can't monitor the cops monitoring you. I had to unplug my radar when I visited my brother there. But the Escort Passport has a setting that is a voltmeter - and it's quite accurate. It's what warned me my alternator had failed on my return ride from Roanoke so I shut off the lights and audio and gps (all have switches for that) and made it home on the battery. Otherwise I would have had a road repair. I wonder if the radar is onboard but turned off, if that would be sufficient to avoid a ticket if a VA cop saw it.
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« Last Edit: August 01, 2020, 01:11:10 PM by MarkT »
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #8 on: August 01, 2020, 02:13:43 PM » |
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In VA, you can get a traffic ticket that comes with a fine of no more than $250 if the device is accessible to drivers or passengers in a vehicle – even if it's not being used at the time. Police will also confiscate the device.
Although, it's my understanding that if it is turned off, detector detectors don't work.
Reading an article on this, a State spokesman said the law has been in effect in VA since 1962, and VA is slow to change.
I call BS as they are rewriting VA gun laws as fast as they can be written and swept through the legislature.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #9 on: August 01, 2020, 04:41:31 PM » |
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I know this has be covered many times here, but my ability to research old threads is poor.
Neither of my '99 interstates has ever had any alternator problem, nor has either been serviced in any way.
The interstate in question has 107K.
It has the multi red-green led Kuryakyn idiot light on it. That bike idles a little below the 900rpm (when warm) called for in the manual, and it is not uncommon for the idiot light to go to (high) red sitting at lights, but a little blip of the throttle always makes it go green. (Even though the whole top half of the idiot light is all green leds, on both my bikes, the light never goes any higher than the lowest green led - and I recall others reporting this same thing over the years).
Because I've never had one problem with alternators, I don't routinely watch the idiot light, though I often do glance at it sitting at a long light idling.
The other day, after about 50 miles of a short ride, I looked down and it was red at idle. So I blipped the throttle and it stayed red, then I ran the bike to 4K+ and it stayed red. Crap!.
So I headed for home (not far). I watched it stay red (top red led, but not the lowest green, as usual). I had no other symptom of a failing alternator; no loss of interstate dash or radio (though I turned it off) (the dual headlights were on). Then, close to home, it went to the low green led again (like usual). But when I parked to put it in the shed, when I got back on to ride it in, i couldn't get a green again.
As soon as I plugged in my Battery Tender, I got a fully charged green light on it (it often shows red for just 20-30 seconds before green), so it didn't seem like the battery was low running with a broken or failing alternator.
Maybe it's the Kuryakyn idiot light (or it's wiring) and not the alternator (it's probably 10 years old or more) .
So I'm needing to test the alternator electronically and I need to know what the (amps or) volts are supposed to be when off, and when running. I do not have such a tester, but wouldn't Auto Zone have one, or what tester should I buy?
Thanks in advance.
I would think at a minimum you will need new brushes. 107k on original brushes is quite a few.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #10 on: August 01, 2020, 05:56:17 PM » |
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So pardon my ignorance, but do failing (or failed) brushes result in a slowly deteriorating alternator, that works well enough but not fully for awhile, or is this an on or off proposition?
Would failing or dirty (or whatever happens) brushes cause the idiot light to be alternatively green then red then green.... for awhile?
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #11 on: August 01, 2020, 06:00:19 PM » |
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So pardon my ignorance, but do failing (or failed) brushes result in a slowly deteriorating alternator, that works well enough but not fully for awhile, or is this an on or off proposition?
Would failing or dirty (or whatever happens) brushes cause the idiot light to be alternatively green then red then green.... for awhile?
I'm no expert on alternators. But, I think all of your symptoms could be attributed to wearing/worn brushes.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #12 on: August 01, 2020, 06:07:11 PM » |
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So far, the only symptom I've had is the idiot light.
Course I'm not idiot enough to go on any long rides until I figure it out (better).
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vanagon40
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« Reply #13 on: August 01, 2020, 07:17:54 PM » |
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My experience is the alternator either works or doesn't work--not too much intermittent failures. The quickest, easiest check is the multimeter at the battery. Once you get a multimeter, you might be surprised how often you use it. Used mine today, BUT had to replace the battery, then re-solder the battery clip leads to the circuit board (the leads broke loose as I replaced the battery), then it worked again. Checking an EVAP Canister Vent Valve solenoid on my van. I try to convince my kids to get a multimeter (or I have bought one at the box store) so I can trouble shout the problems they ask me to fix ( e.g., why doesn’t my garbage disposal work?). If you thought there was an intermittent failure, you could even go for a ride with the multimeter hooked to the battery and duct taped to the triple tree. I have a voltage gauge wired directly to the battery on my Valkyrie (except for the relay to the on/off switch). If the alternator is bad (and just because the battery voltage does not change does not mean the alternator is bad), there may be some simple checks and repairs, but that should wait until you determine whether your problem is the alternator or the Kuryakyn light. As suggested above, the sitting voltage of the battery would be 12+ volts. Running above an idle should be 13+ (and you should see a noticeable jump in voltage). If there is no change is voltage while running, you have a problem. . . . .Course I'm not idiot enough to go on any long rides until I figure it out (better).
After the alternator light came on, my kids usually kept driving the car until the radio quit or the car died (I think I taught them you could limp home with an alternator light; but shut down immediately with a temperature or oil pressure light). My daughter learned new profanity when I had to change the alternator on an old Saturn on some random street in Lafayette at 10:00 p.m. (the alternator was accessed from under the vehicle). When I was not sure whether I could get my multimeter working again, this is the multimeter I found after a VERY brief search.
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« Last Edit: August 01, 2020, 07:23:02 PM by vanagon40 »
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #14 on: August 01, 2020, 07:54:13 PM » |
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Thanks. I need to get the multimeter.
Right now, I think it's just the idiot light, and not the alternator.
The bike should have come with an idiot light, and I should have put a real gauge on it, but didn't.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #15 on: August 01, 2020, 08:11:28 PM » |
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Thanks. I need to get the multimeter.
Right now, I think it's just the idiot light, and not the alternator.
The bike should have come with an idiot light, and I should have put a real gauge on it, but didn't.
Maybe. I'm still going with brushes or alt. replacement. I've thought about mounting a meter on the bike. I just have a single led idiot light. Changes colors from green, yellow, red. It takes up no space, and let's me know if things are good. If I was to get one, I'd go with the digital ones with the usb and power outlets. But I already have that stuff. The hardest part is getting the cursed thing in and out. Were it me, I'd get a GoldWing alt, clock it, replace it, and then refurbish the original for a spare. (Don't you just love people giving you unsolicited advice ?)
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gordonv
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Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #16 on: August 01, 2020, 09:18:47 PM » |
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As I mentioned too, most likely the brushes.
What my bike was doing was battery voltage after starting, shortly going to charging V within a min.
Then that changed to 2-3 mins, just long enough to turn off the chock. So I wait till I have a charging V before leaving.
Then I went 15 min, and nothing, battery voltage only, no amount of reving would change it.
My brushes where stuck, brush dust had jammed them in the housing. Pushed them and flushed with WD40, and they where moving freely. Inspected the brushes to see how warn, and they where about 25% left. I can't remember the mileage, something like 80K, so I think they would be good to 100K miles. That was when I was going to replace them.
What I suspect was happening, was the brushes where not moving, but the metal was warming and expanding, which gives the brush contact. Till the brushes wore more, and the metal expansion no longer allowed contact.
I think if you read my linked post, and take some of the hints I mentioned, the issue of re-installing the alternator over days is now in the past. (did I mentioned about cutting the end of the studs off, that stick past the nuts on the end of the alt?)
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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longrider
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« Reply #17 on: August 01, 2020, 09:22:50 PM » |
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I purchased these from the local auto stereo shop about 20 a piece. easy install 
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #18 on: August 02, 2020, 02:32:55 AM » |
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(Don't you just love people giving you unsolicited advice ?)But I do sir, I did solicit advice, and I appreciate all the help I can get. Now who will come over and swap it out for me, 'cause I'm not going to to do it (after reading all the 97 past stories about how much fun it is).  If it is the alternator, I should take the good one out of my other bike (which has a clutch problem, and 55K) and put it in the fubarred one. Which is the purpose of two identical bikes. Instead, I'll wait for the Big BF to arrive in his big trailer and let someone with competence have a go at all of it. It's way too hot out there, and patience is not in me.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #19 on: August 02, 2020, 04:44:52 AM » |
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(Don't you just love people giving you unsolicited advice ?)But I do sir, I did solicit advice, and I appreciate all the help I can get. Now who will come over and swap it out for me, 'cause I'm not going to to do it (after reading all the 97 past stories about how much fun it is).  If it is the alternator, I should take the good one out of my other bike (which has a clutch problem, and 55K) and put it in the fubarred one. Which is the purpose of two identical bikes. Instead, I'll wait for the Big BF to arrive in his big trailer and let someone with competence have a go at all of it. It's way too hot out there, and patience is not in me. I wish we were closer. I’d come over and swap them alternators in 30 minutes and then go ride on some real roads with you
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #20 on: August 02, 2020, 06:43:33 AM » |
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I’d come over and swap them alternators in 30 minutes and then go ride on some real roads with you You could get to the North Carolina mountains quicker than he could get out of DC traffic  ... I like your marine voltmeter idea  ... My shutdown procedure (turn off key, walk away) would require me to hook it in with a relay, though... -Mike
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #21 on: August 02, 2020, 06:53:11 AM » |
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(Don't you just love people giving you unsolicited advice ?)But I do sir, I did solicit advice, and I appreciate all the help I can get. Now who will come over and swap it out for me, 'cause I'm not going to to do it (after reading all the 97 past stories about how much fun it is).  If it is the alternator, I should take the good one out of my other bike (which has a clutch problem, and 55K) and put it in the fubarred one. Which is the purpose of two identical bikes. Instead, I'll wait for the Big BF to arrive in his big trailer and let someone with competence have a go at all of it. It's way too hot out there, and patience is not in me. I wish we were closer. I’d come over and swap them alternators in 30 minutes and then go ride on some real roads with you Thanks very much for the thoughtful offer. Hey, I'll buy dinner if you can make it up here.  It only takes me 30-40 minutes to get out of NoVA traffic. Unless I get in a back up or construction delay. Considering we're all motoring around on 20yo bikes, an actual voltmeter is a wonderful idea. (as it always was)
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #22 on: August 02, 2020, 12:25:59 PM » |
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Well, I didn't get a multimeter yet, but I did get the idle turned up to 900+, and this morning the Kuryakyn idiot light is all green, and the bike is running great (as usual). I'm still going to get a tester and keep a close eye on it. It was too hot to ride, so I gave it it's first wash of the summer. After the wash, I rolled the bike back in the shed and found this laying in the driveway. I spent longer searching the bike for this missing bolt than I did washing it. And I cannot find a missing bolt anywhere. Driving me nutz. It's possible it's off another piece of equipment at the house, but not likely. It looks very similar to this picture (but smaller, and mine is not two-tone looking, and the buttonhead is not knurled but smooth), it takes a 5mm hex allen driver. It looks like some kind of pivot pin, but it's not from my levers or the kickstand (or anything else I can find). OK you experts, where in the heck does this go on a Valkyrie?? 
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« Last Edit: August 02, 2020, 12:44:31 PM by Jess from VA »
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #23 on: August 02, 2020, 12:30:31 PM » |
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There's a thing kind of like that hopefully holding the bottom of your shock on, on the pumpkin side...
-Mike
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gordonv
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Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #24 on: August 02, 2020, 12:31:21 PM » |
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It should only take you about 10-15 min to get the alternator our.
If you read my linked post, you'll see I found 3 (or was it 4) tricks with the alternator, that allowed me to install it in minutes.
I'll see if I remember, these are when you get to it, not something you do first (disconnect the battery is FIRST).
move the cables/hose into the engine, away from the alternator dry the engine fins, and get grease onto the dampeners to hold in place (clocking may or may not help, your choice) cut the end of the alternator studs to the nuts rotate the alt to the rounded end portion, not the square cornered ones
OK, there are 4, maybe some one might have other suggestions?
So 15 min to reinstall to a running bike is do able.
(for others) As ChrisJ offered, a helping hand, this is one reason we constantly recommend adding your location in your profile. Some long a destination ride, and 1-200 miles is a nice ride.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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gordonv
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Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #25 on: August 02, 2020, 12:39:42 PM » |
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There's a thing kind of like that hopefully holding the bottom of your shock on, on the pumpkin side...
No, that has no shoulder, after the thread it is like 12 mm shoulder. Caliper, behind the cover?
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #26 on: August 02, 2020, 12:42:24 PM » |
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There's a thing kind of like that hopefully holding the bottom of your shock on, on the pumpkin side...
-Mike
Thanks Mike, but I just checked and that shock bolt is in the bike, and that bolt is a straight hex head, not a button head allen.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #27 on: August 02, 2020, 12:48:51 PM » |
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Nothing on your bike that's OEM looks like that bolt, I'm pretty sure.
You have non-OEM shocks if I remember correctly, I guessed maybe they put a funny bolt there too...
-Mike
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Vermonter
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« Reply #28 on: August 02, 2020, 01:23:50 PM » |
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So pardon my ignorance, but do failing (or failed) brushes result in a slowly deteriorating alternator, that works well enough but not fully for awhile, or is this an on or off proposition?
Would failing or dirty (or whatever happens) brushes cause the idiot light to be alternatively green then red then green.... for awhile?
\ The brushes supply current to the windings on the rotor, through the 'slip ring' copper contacts on the rotor, and the current supplied through the brushes and slip rings creates the magnetic field in the whirling rotor that generates the electrical output in the windings of the stator. If the brushes are worn, grimy, jammed, etc. to a degree that they are making some electrical contact - but only making poor electrical contact - with the 'slip ring' contacts on the rotor, then your alternator will be partially effective at generating useful output- and will do better at higher RPMs. Alternators always have rising output, up to their max capability, as RPMs rise - but in this degraded condition, the RPMs will need to be higher than normal to produce useful output. And once the situation involves poor electrical contact, that poor contact creates extra heat at the poorly-contacting-surfaces, and that heat will accelerate the demise of the brushes, or degrade the surfaces on the slip rings, or both. The outcome only goes downhill once it starts going downhill.
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Vermonter
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« Reply #29 on: August 02, 2020, 01:26:31 PM » |
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So pardon my ignorance, but do failing (or failed) brushes result in a slowly deteriorating alternator, that works well enough but not fully for awhile, or is this an on or off proposition?
Would failing or dirty (or whatever happens) brushes cause the idiot light to be alternatively green then red then green.... for awhile?
\ The brushes supply current to the windings on the rotor, through the 'slip ring' copper contacts on the rotor, and the current supplied through the brushes and slip rings creates the magnetic field in the whirling rotor that generates the electrical output in the windings of the stator. If the brushes are worn, grimy, jammed, etc. to a degree that they are making some electrical contact - but only making poor electrical contact - with the 'slip ring' contacts on the rotor, then your alternator will be partially effective at generating useful output- and will do better at higher RPMs. Alternators always have rising output, up to their max capability, as RPMs rise - but in this degraded condition, the RPMs will need to be higher than normal to produce useful output. And once the situation involves poor electrical contact, that poor contact creates extra heat at the poorly-contacting-surfaces, and that heat will accelerate the demise of the brushes, or degrade the surfaces on the slip rings, or both. The outcome only goes downhill once it starts going downhill - it may vary how fast and you may have moments of temporary better function, but the writing is on the wall.
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Madmike
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« Reply #30 on: August 02, 2020, 01:57:13 PM » |
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I know this has be covered many times here, but my ability to research old threads is poor.
Neither of my '99 interstates has ever had any alternator problem, nor has either been serviced in any way.
The interstate in question has 107K.
It has the multi red-green led Kuryakyn idiot light on it. That bike idles a little below the 900rpm (when warm) called for in the manual, and it is not uncommon for the idiot light to go to (high) red sitting at lights, but a little blip of the throttle always makes it go green. (Even though the whole top half of the idiot light is all green leds, on both my bikes, the light never goes any higher than the lowest green led - and I recall others reporting this same thing over the years).
Because I've never had one problem with alternators, I don't routinely watch the idiot light, though I often do glance at it sitting at a long light idling.
The other day, after about 50 miles of a short ride, I looked down and it was red at idle. So I blipped the throttle and it stayed red, then I ran the bike to 4K+ and it stayed red. Crap!.
So I headed for home (not far). I watched it stay red (top red led, but not the lowest green, as usual). I had no other symptom of a failing alternator; no loss of interstate dash or radio (though I turned it off) (the dual headlights were on). Then, close to home, it went to the low green led again (like usual). But when I parked to put it in the shed, when I got back on to ride it in, i couldn't get a green again.
As soon as I plugged in my Battery Tender, I got a fully charged green light on it (it often shows red for just 20-30 seconds before green), so it didn't seem like the battery was low running with a broken or failing alternator.
Maybe it's the Kuryakyn idiot light (or it's wiring) and not the alternator (it's probably 10 years old or more) .
So I'm needing to test the alternator electronically and I need to know what the (amps or) volts are supposed to be when off, and when running. I do not have such a tester, but wouldn't Auto Zone have one, or what tester should I buy?
Thanks in advance.
In ideal conditions a lead acid battery will be 2.3 volts DC per cell, so a "perfect" 6 cell battery will be 13.8 volts, this will decrease with cell condition. Charging system voltage is usually right around 14.2 volts DC and that is what you will see if the engine is running and the alternator is putting out. The indicator light that you are using is not the same as the old "idiot lights" that were used in most cars etc. That style light has battery voltage on one side and charging system voltage on the other so if either voltage is higher than the other ower will flow one way or the other and light the light to indicate a problem with either part of the system. The light that you have will sense the the circuit voltage and then light whichever of 3 LEDs is in the range - low voltage red LED, medium voltage will be higher than the red LED range but not in to the green LED range but will light the Yellow LED etc. The LED went green when you plugged in the battery tender showing that the battery tender was putting out acceptable voltage. As suggested you can get a cheap multimeter from most auto supply places, Amazon etc. Here is a link to a how to on testing charging system components on the vehicle. It details output tests as well as checking diode trio and battery. https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Alternator-Problems-and-Automotive-Charging-System-TestsI have an accessory panel that is fed through a relay controlled by the auxiliary circuit wiring. I would most likely hook a volt meter to the auxiliary panel and it should show voltage while running and engine stopped (battery voltage) when the main key is on but the engine stopped. Using the aux panel will give me fused protection for the wiring and shut off power to the meter with the key so I won't have something else to forget to do.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #31 on: August 02, 2020, 05:09:11 PM » |
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Thank you for the good information Vermonter and MadMike (and everyone).  I will get a multimeter. (I don't have one since auto electric has always been witchcraft to me) Nothing on your bike that's OEM looks like that bolt, I'm pretty sure.
You have non-OEM shocks if I remember correctly, I guessed maybe they put a funny bolt there too...Yeah I have aging 440 Progressives (non leaking for now, on both bikes, with a spare set of used nonleaking 440s in a box). They use different shock bushings, but also use the OE shock mount bolts all the way around. That bolt looks similar to things I have seen on the bike, but I crawled all over the place looking for any missing bolt, and I could not find one. I thought about plowing through the entire Valk parts fishe, section by section, looking for one like that. Instead, I came inside, ate a bowl of soup, and passed out for a 4 hour nap. Maybe a neighbor with a perverse sense of humor pitched one over my fence. If I catch him at it, Ima pour some oil under his new truck. Maybe it's from my Honda mower or Stihl backpack blower or..... (but it was right where I washed the bike)
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