Throttle adjustment with risers

[DSA]

Hi all,

I have a 1998 standard. It had risers and aftermarket bars installed when I got it, and I quite like it that way. However, I feel that I have too much free play in the throttle. If I try to adjust the throttle slack at the grips so that I have less free play with the bars pointed straight, then the throttle does not return at full lock.

One possibility is that I should just get new, longer throttle cables. But another possibility is to change the routing. Currently, the pass through a holder that is in front of the forks (I am defining "front" as closer to the headlight, and "back" as closer to the rider). What if I instead run it with the brake lines, behind the fork? Seems like it would get pulled less when I turn the bars, and be less tight in general.

Pics attached for reference.



[url=https://ibb.co/c6mZ6px]

Thanks in advance!

[Jess from VA]

Many have moved the throttle cables inside the triple tree for some extra stretch (length).

Some have swapped out for the Interstate throttle housings, which go down instead of out the front.

I think it's #5, but not certain.
https://www.procaliber.com/oem-parts?aribrand=HOM&arian=MOTORCYCLE#/Honda_Powersports/GL1500CFA_(99)_VALKYRIE_INTERSTATE%2c_USA%2c_VIN%23_1HFSC410-XA000001/SWITCH_%2b_CABLE/61347acc-638e-40e4-aa4f-0fceb839ab88/69b8e028-e3b7-40fc-906b-8ad26ec5ac87/y

A trick to moving the throttle cables is to loosen the bars in the riser clamps (after padding the tank) and then just sliding the bars over to give more room to work (but I dunno with your handlebars).

See:  http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php?topic=28799.0

Except the diagram in that thread that shows the interstate cables coming out the top is incorrect (or upside down).

[sandy]

I worked on a valk with the cables behind the TTT’s. Under the tank the cable made a sharp bend and would bind up no matter what I tried.

[6adan]

   I put 5" risers on my CT and was going to get longer cables but a 2" longer cable was going to be something like $65.00 each. I got a Interstate housing and used stock cables routed the stock way, looks good and no binding.

[Chrisj CMA]

You’re whole problem is that those cables are just too short by a couple inches or so. It’s well worth it to get it done right

[DSA]

Thanks for the replies!
@jees from VA: wondering how loosening the bars helps. I still need to remove the throttle cable from it's housing, re-reoute it and then hook it back up, right? If loosening the bars just helps gives slack, I could probably do the same by just loosening the cable using the adjuster at the grips, correct?

[Jess from VA]

Thanks for the replies!
@jees from VA: wondering how loosening the bars helps. I still need to remove the throttle cable from it's housing, re-reoute it and then hook it back up, right? If loosening the bars just helps gives slack, I could probably do the same by just loosening the cable using the adjuster at the grips, correct?

Yes, it's just for slack to work with, though with those bars, maybe not much.

I'm no expert.  But with those bars, you may just need longer cables.

You can never afford to be in a slow hard turn, and have the throttle jump up suddenly from the cables being stretched.  You'd get thrown like a bull rider. 

[Chrisj CMA]

Thanks for the replies!
@jees from VA: wondering how loosening the bars helps. I still need to remove the throttle cable from it's housing, re-reoute it and then hook it back up, right? If loosening the bars just helps gives slack, I could probably do the same by just loosening the cable using the adjuster at the grips, correct?

It’s been my experience that you never get enough slack with the adjusters and with your cables so tight I’m sure you won’t. You have to move the bars. You probably won’t get the cables disconnected until you slip the grip off the end of the bar. Lots of slack needed

[DSA]

I decided to go measure the current slack: just under 6 mm, with no binding and perfect springback at full lock on both sides. This apparently places it just within spec. Maybe I'm just used to having minimal slack from sportsbikes. Part of the issue is my old, worn leather gloves - I replaced them with new ones and now have no discomfort in spite of the slack.

[John Schmidt]

It definitely is a problem created by the higher risers with some pullback PLUS the mini-apes, then add in the prior owner tried to use the OEM cables. It does create a rather hazardous situation and needs to be corrected with longer cables. As was suggested, if you like the bars as they are then complete the job by getting cables of the proper length. Running them behind the forks will only make a limited difference but also creates its own issues. Just bite the bullet and do it right, stop trying to find a bandaid for a larger wound....you'll be glad you did.

Your other option....get lower bars to replace the mini-apes. The higher you go with the bars such as those, you often create handling issues. You simply don't have the leverage at the forks when compared to OEM or similar rise bars, to say nothing of the arm and shoulder discomfort on long hauls. I know a lot of riders with apes will argue that point until I suggest using a spring weight scale and compare. Case closed!

[Chrisj CMA]

I decided to go measure the current slack: just under 6 mm, with no binding and perfect springback at full lock on both sides. This apparently places it just within spec. Maybe I'm just used to having minimal slack from sportsbikes. Part of the issue is my old, worn leather gloves - I replaced them with new ones and now have no discomfort in spite of the slack.

Those cables are being stretched beyond the intended parameters. You can convince yourself the extra slack needed is not a problem but you lose slow speed controllability and with the apes you already have reduced control. Correct length cables is the only good answer

[Jess from VA]

I'm not a fan of apes or miniapes either, but I'm not 6'6" either. 

I'm not even sure the air is safe up there.   

And the bugs will get you up there.