Rear brake pad install

[Canoodle]

Hi all

Just fitted front pads to my 2000 IS-all went well-proud to say none of the usual hiccups-job for both sides took about 45 min. Had a lot of help from the "soldier guy" in the how to section on this forum. Wanting to tackle the rear now- the "soldier guy" seems to have gone AWOL as far as the rear pads are concerned. Demotion to PVT in order. !
I also do not find any Youtube video's for this particular job. Anyone have a point form " how to" list they can send me ,or advise easiest way to go about this ?
Cheers

[mello dude]

Hi all

Just fitted front pads to my 2000 IS-all went well-proud to say none of the usual hiccups-job for both sides took about 45 min. Had a lot of help from the "soldier guy" in the how to section on this forum. Wanting to tackle the rear now- the "soldier guy" seems to have gone AWOL as far as the rear pads are concerned. Demotion to PVT in order. !
I also do not find any Youtube video's for this particular job. Anyone have a point form " how to" list they can send me ,or advise easiest way to go about this ?
Cheers

Pads only? It's easy peazy. ...... find the standard lock  screw at the very rear of the caliper. Bust that loose and pull that out.
Then behind it is a Allen head bolt/ pin... also bust that loose and pull it out....

Next , the pads will slide out rearward and out. Grab a screwdriver or pry bar and shove the pistons back as far as they go.
A little patience.... replace the spring clips.....  and then slide in the pads. Push the pin back in and tighten. Follow up with lock screw....

I could do it in ten minutes.......

[mello dude]

Do you have a FSM?

[Chrisj CMA]

Hi all

Just fitted front pads to my 2000 IS-all went well-proud to say none of the usual hiccups-job for both sides took about 45 min. Had a lot of help from the "soldier guy" in the how to section on this forum. Wanting to tackle the rear now- the "soldier guy" seems to have gone AWOL as far as the rear pads are concerned. Demotion to PVT in order. !
I also do not find any Youtube video's for this particular job. Anyone have a point form " how to" list they can send me ,or advise easiest way to go about this ?
Cheers

Pads only? It's easy peazy. ...... find the standard lock  screw at the very rear of the caliper. Bust that loose and pull that out.
Then behind it is a Allen head bolt/ pin... also bust that loose and pull it out....

Next , the pads will slide out rearward and out. Grab a screwdriver or pry bar and shove the pistons back as far as they go.
A little patience.... replace the spring clips.....  and then slide in the pads. Push the pin back in and tighten. Follow up with lock screw....

I could do it in ten minutes.......

This is good but don’t forget to clean the pistons before pressing them in and also check hydraulic fluid level as you press them in. With the top off the reservoir you can see the oil rise and remove some of it gets close to the top

[Pluggy]

Once the caliper is removed, you can clean the pistons using brake cleaner and an old toothbrush.  The cap of the fluid reservoir is then removed.  Many of us will place the old brake pad in the caliper, and press the caliper against the rotor to compress the pistons.  It is easy, and avoids any scarring of a piston or rotor with tools.  That's the Honda Service Manual way.   

And, like you have already read, compress the pistons slowly, checking to ensure the level does not exceed the "FULL" line.

[gordonv]

+ what Chrisj said.

I've a vacuum pump or a syringe if you need to borrow something. I know you just did add fluid, most likely it went to the piston being pressed out further.

Also, you'll need to remove your saddle bag to get to the pads, but I know you asked me about how-to on that already. 

[Canoodle]

Thanks replies guys...just a bit confused re above advice. So does the caliper actually have to be removed or not ?  Hope all good with you Gord.

[Chrisj CMA]

Thanks replies guys...just a bit confused re above advice. So does the caliper actually have to be removed or not ?  Hope all good with you Gord.

I do not recommend removing the caliper unless you remove the axle and move the caliper and caliper plate together. You can change the pads with the caliper in place it’s just a little harder to clean the piston but it can be done. I use para chord soaked in brake fluid wrap it around a piston and pull it back and forth until the piston is shiny clean

If you pull the axle to get the caliper plate off, then you should remove the right side shock and loosen the four final drive nuts before re torquing the axle then immediately redo the four nuts before re installing the shock

[mello dude]

Thanks replies guys...just a bit confused re above advice. So does the caliper actually have to be removed or not ?  Hope all good with you Gord.

If you are talking  pads only, no.. As Chris described, more in depth, yes the caliper can come off.

[..]

Put anti seize on the pin and the small set screw when replacing them.

[BINOVC]

Just so you know, if you DO decide to remove the caliper, it can be done without removing the rear tire.
There is a Caliper Pin Bolt (#12 in the fiche) that needs to be removed.  You can only get at it with an open-end wrench, so I recommend using a flare-nut wrench.  I used a regular wrench, and might have rounded the bolt head corners a bit, so be careful.
https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2000-honda-valkyrie-gl1500c-rear-brake-caliper/o/m151351sch405154