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Author Topic: Fork caps are seized  (Read 1603 times)
shadowmagic
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Posts: 229


« on: September 30, 2020, 12:49:17 PM »

Just when I thought the problems were over on this bike I find out the fork caps are seized. I tried to do my forks about a week ago and was unable to remove the caps. I figured I would take it in to get it done since they may have tools I dont have at home. I just got the call stating the caps are stripped now and they cannot get them off at all. He said he had never seen anything like it before.

My questions are.......any other forks that will fit? or do I need to just hunt for some forks on ebay and pray they become available? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Looks like there is a set of ebay for 500.00. If nobody has any other suggestions I suppose I can order those.
« Last Edit: September 30, 2020, 12:57:47 PM by shadowmagic » Logged
pancho
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Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #1 on: September 30, 2020, 01:21:02 PM »

I would first mig (aluminum wire) a bar or rod of aluminum to each of the caps while they are clamped in the trees, break them free, then cut the piece off, remove the tubes and replace the caps.


If you can't do that, maybe grind some flats into the caps and use the proper sized pipe wrench.

Or drill through the remains of the nut on the cap and put a rod through it and work it off.

Or cut a large slot into the cap and use a large impact on them while locked in the trees.

Or cut a large slot into the cap and use a pry bar to twist the loose.

They will come out and all you will need is new caps after the rebuild.
« Last Edit: September 30, 2020, 01:32:29 PM by pancho » Logged

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
hubcapsc
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upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #2 on: September 30, 2020, 01:24:27 PM »

I would first mig (aluminum wire) a bar or rod of aluminum to each of the caps while they are clamped in the trees, break them free, then cut the piece off, remove the tubes and replace the caps.

... but just clamped at the bottom and not at the top ...

-Mike
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98valk
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Posts: 13450


South Jersey


« Reply #3 on: September 30, 2020, 01:27:15 PM »

did they loosen the upper triple clamp bolts first? that has to be done before the caps can be remove.

the upper section of the forks can be had cheaply on ebay, since in an accident the lower slide bends. only the lower slide is avail new, upper tube is discontinued.
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steveB (VRCC UK)
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« Reply #4 on: September 30, 2020, 01:34:16 PM »

You loosed the pinch bolts in the top tree before disassembly and leaving the bottom tree pinch bolts tight you used an 8 point socket over the fork cap with a shop rag between socket and cap, loosed it off or no ?
Ok put the leg back in the lower tree tighten the lower tree pinch bolts and using your dad's pipe wrench (stilson in the UK - the old man was an old school plumber) grab the mullered (UK term for a well chewed component) nut and wrench it off. You might want to play a heat gun over the leg around the top before you start. I see the nuts are close on $100 each so what have you got to lose.


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pancho
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Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #5 on: September 30, 2020, 01:34:22 PM »

I would first mig (aluminum wire) a bar or rod of aluminum to each of the caps while they are clamped in the trees, break them free, then cut the piece off, remove the tubes and replace the caps.

... but just clamped at the bottom and not at the top ...

-Mike


Or better to push them up above the tree several inches to do any of this work.




I wasn't paying attention,,,,  what Mike said when it comes to the actual loosening step.
« Last Edit: September 30, 2020, 01:55:49 PM by pancho » Logged

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
ridingron
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Orlando


« Reply #6 on: September 30, 2020, 01:57:10 PM »

Quote
 Or better to push them up above the tree several inches to do any of this work.    

 
Or better to push them up above the tree several inches, tighten the top clamp screws, then to do any of this work.
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da prez
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. Rhinelander Wi. Island Lake Il.


« Reply #7 on: September 30, 2020, 01:58:48 PM »

Since they are already destroyed  , drill two holes in the top of the cap for a spanner wrench.  Tap, tap ,tap with a hammer and blunt punch. Warm them up and they will come off.

        da prez
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shadowmagic
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« Reply #8 on: September 30, 2020, 02:50:48 PM »

Thanks for the tips everyone. I dont see them coming out without a lot of work. I think I will order the ones on ebay and then I can keep the ones on there now and repair them in my spare time as a backup maybe. Thanks again everyone, i really appeciate all the input.
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sandy
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Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #9 on: September 30, 2020, 04:40:52 PM »

I hate Pro mechanics. They use air hammers on these when the torque spec is about 22 FT/Lbs (I think). I had to drill 2 holes across from one another on top. Then I held the fork while my buddy used a large punch and 5 lb sledge to hammer them out. New caps are $90 each but it saved my forks.
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Lyle Laun
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Calgary, Ab


« Reply #10 on: September 30, 2020, 05:10:15 PM »

Let me know if you get in a bind. I have a spare set of forks squirreled away that I'd be willing to part with.

Regards
Lyle
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shadowmagic
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« Reply #11 on: September 30, 2020, 05:18:56 PM »

Thank you everyone, I ordered the one set I found on ebay and they look good. I will install them when they get here.
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Hook#3287
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Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #12 on: October 03, 2020, 05:46:56 AM »

When this happened to me, I used a chisel and hammer and bought A new cap.

Actually, I bought 2.  1 for back up.

So is your plan to install the new to you forks without rebuilding them?

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Bagger John - #3785
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« Reply #13 on: October 03, 2020, 01:36:19 PM »

I always torque to spec when playing with forks, but reading this thread tells me it may be wise to get a spare fork cap "just in case".

There's a spare set of I/S forks in my stash. Those and the set currently on my I/S are going to Traxxion for a cartridge conversion and the ones on my Tourer (with Hypepro springs) are going to serve as spares in case I have to send either of the others to Traxxion for service.
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hubcapsc
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upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #14 on: October 03, 2020, 03:53:19 PM »


Those and the set currently on my I/S are going to Traxxion for a cartridge conversion

Yay! Please tell us about them after you get them back  cooldude ...

-Mike
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F6BANGER
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Albuquerque NM


« Reply #15 on: October 06, 2020, 02:06:46 PM »

Shadowmagic, contact Steve Cain or myself if you need help. We are in Albuquerque/Rio Rancho
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #16 on: October 08, 2020, 09:03:23 AM »

I know the caps are near impossible to remove if you do not loosen the top clamps of the bridge.

And anything short of a six sided box wrench to remove them is pure foolishness and very rookie.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Bagger John - #3785
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Posts: 1952



« Reply #17 on: October 08, 2020, 10:50:22 AM »

I know the caps are near impossible to remove if you do not loosen the top clamps of the bridge.

And anything short of a six sided box wrench to remove them is pure foolishness and very rookie.
My go-to is a snug-fitting 6pt 1/2"dr socket and a 2ft or greater length T-handle breaker bar. Haven't found one yet that beat the combo, but one never knows about who was into a bike before I was.
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