Winter Storage

[GWS]

Seems like everyone uses some kind of fuel stabilizer when they put their bikes up for the winter. Most stabilizers say they're for fuel blended with ethanol. My '98 Valk has only been fed non-ethanol fuel. Is there any benefit to using a stabilizer with non-ethanol fuel in a full tank and drained carbs?
Thanks!

[Bagger John - #3785]

Use Marine Sta-Bil (the blue stuff) and don't look back.

[Valkorado]

Use Marine Sta-Bil (the blue stuff) and don't look back.

 

Sta-Bil 360 Marine.  Great stuff.  A half ounce to 5 gallons, make sure you get it through your carbs.

[Avanti]

I believe one of the main problems for long-term storage is, condensation in the fuel system. So putting in a fuel stabilizer that emits a coating may be helpful in keeping corrosion from occurring, especially if not stored in a heated area.

[Jess from VA]

I use (mostly) only non corn-polluted gas too, but I still add Marine Stabil.  In combination with filling the tank as full as humanly possible (centered up).  And turning the petcock OFF.

[yrunvs]

1. Ad healthy dose of Seafoam and take short ride then fill tank as full as possible with non oxy. I only run non oxy when possible.
2. Remove spark plugs and squirt a few ounces of motor oil in and then tap starter a couple of times. Replace plugs.
3. Clean bike with spray polish and rags.
4. Make sure petcock is closed and then drain carb bowls.
5. Park with tires on thick cardboard
6. Plug into Battery Tender
7. Cover
8. Get on computer and log onto VRCC.

[h13man]

Used to use Stabil red formula but it turns color/brown if you don't use it all up. Been using Supertech fuel conditioner going on 4 seasons now. Fill near empty tank with it added. Bike starts better and runs better with the winter tank.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/SUPER-TECH-Motor-Treatment-WM23269-16-oz/51088882?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=2339&&adid=22222222227039730153&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=80648054689&wl4=pla-178380772849&wl5=9016735&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=51088882&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjwoc_8BRAcEiwAzJevtdWdj1OwjvDsnEevb9Cfr5Gde0W5bZYUEm7BupKga31EttCeNVHn6hoCB5IQAvD_BwE

[GWS]

So you run the marine Sta-Bil through to the carbs and still drain them, or not? If some of these stabilizers coat surfaces, aren't there problems with any residue plugging the ports/jets in the spring?

I'm going to be keeping the bike in my unheated shop through the winter where I spend most weekends trying to keep the snowmobiles running. I think the best option is to keep the gas in it and start the bike every weekend and get it up to temp, but I'm experienced enough to know this plan won't happen EVERY time, especially when it gets below zero.

I get a kick out of the owners manual. It wants me to store the bike in a dry, unheated garage with minimal temperature variations. I live in upstate NY. Temperature variations are what we do best!!!

Thanks again for your opinions.

[Bagger John - #3785]

So you run the marine Sta-Bil through to the carbs and still drain them, or not?

I only add it to a completely full tank. The carbs are drained via the bowl drain screws and those screws are left open. If you're the forgetful type, make a note to yourself and tape it to the petcock.

I also pull my batteries and store them inside - charging once a month - so I could leave myself a note in the battery box. But since this has been SOP for me for many years, it's second nature to close the drain screws as part of spring prep.

ETA:

2. Remove spark plugs and squirt a few ounces of motor oil in and then tap starter a couple of times. Replace plugs.
3. Clean bike with spray polish and rags.
4. Make sure petcock is closed and then drain carb bowls.

Items 2 and 4 are in reverse order, and no more than 1 tablespoon of oil per cylinder should be used. You don't want to be turning the motor over with fuel in the carbs, as the vaporized fuel will thin the oil you just added to the cylinders. Make sure you put the wires back on the plugs and position them on the engine where each has a good ground before cranking the engine - else you'll possibly be looking at replacing an ICM because you fried it.

The OEM owner's manual covers this process under the "Storage" section.

I get a kick out of the owners manual. It wants me to store the bike in a dry, unheated garage with minimal temperature variations. I live in upstate NY. Temperature variations are what we do best!!!

Ohio's winters are much like New York's. Make sure ALL chromed or raw metal surfaces are covered by protectant oil (the spray stuff from AutoZone or Advance Auto works well if applied to a rag and used to wipe the metal surfaces. Don't hose it down with the spray nozzle). Put a breathable cover on the bike and tuck it away until spring.

I've stored my Valkyries like this for years (some since new in 2000) and they're still in great shape. No rust or corrosion to speak of anywhere. Key is to keep condensation and dust off of raw surfaces, including chrome.

[Valkorado]

So you run the marine Sta-Bil through to the carbs and still drain them, or not? If some of these stabilizers coat surfaces, aren't there problems with any residue plugging the ports/jets in the spring?

I'm going to be keeping the bike in my unheated shop through the winter where I spend most weekends trying to keep the snowmobiles running. I think the best option is to keep the gas in it and start the bike every weekend and get it up to temp, but I'm experienced enough to know this plan won't happen EVERY time, especially when it gets below zero.

I get a kick out of the owners manual. It wants me to store the bike in a dry, unheated garage with minimal temperature variations. I live in upstate NY. Temperature variations are what we do best!!!

Thanks again for your opinions.

Some drain the bowls, some don't.  I opt to keep the rubber rings and seals wet.  I also don't start the bikes much, if at all, once the deep freeze sets in.  I do move the bikes around a couple, few times to keep the tires from getting flat spots.  Maybe I've just been lucky but it's worked for many long, cold winters.

[Challenger]

About ten years ago, several people on here were touting to shut fuel off and run bike until it dies. I did that and next spring the fuel rails leaked like a sieve. Ever since that time I add marine sta-bil 360, run bike around the block and then park. I start her up once every month and have had no problems.  YMMV 

[dconstruct55]

Great info, I have a related question. I keep my 1999 Tourer in Prescott AZ. Have used Sta-bil every winter before shutting down. This year I have decided to bring my 2002 Goldwing up there and bring the Valk back down to Phoenix where I can ride her all winter. My question is - should I add Sta-bil to the GW tank even though that is fuel injected? I am thinking yes, but thought I would ask. Thanks,

[Jess from VA]

Why not? (non corn gas too)

[dconstruct55]

 

[Ricky-D]

One forgotten practice that should be religion is to drain a little from each float bowl.

This practice removes anything that has accumulated in the bottom of the float bowl, like water and sediment.

Failing to do this can result in many carburetor problems.

Doing this can avoid many carburetor problems.

And, it is so easy to do.

[Ken aka Oil Burner]

The only non-ethanol gas available in Massachusetts is VP or Sunoco Race fuel in cans for insane $$, or 114 octane leaded Cam 2 (also Sunoco, but named so other stations can offer it) for ~ $10 per gallon. I've learned to live with ethanol laced fuels because I don't have much choice. If my avatar here didn't give it away, I am an Amsoil dealer. I've had no problems since I began using their products. Yes, even with ethanol crap fuel.

[yrunvs]

we have many lakes in Minnesota thus plenty of boating and many gas stations near lakes carry non oxy

[Led]

Yes......I AM a float bowl drainer.   I fill the tank, after I shut off my Pingle, and drain then the float bowls.

Yes, my fuel rails have leaked in the Spring.....IF I need to leave Her sit for a riding season.  But they have come back after a good soaking in fuel.....so far anyway!   After ONE Winter....no problem?  

Some "Winters" are considered 2 months in other places of the Nation, but ours are like 8 months!!

 

[h13man]

I open my Pingle every 2 wks. during layup to keep the bowls full and  battery tender once a month if I remember.