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Author Topic: Solenoid again  (Read 1454 times)
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14761


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« on: November 20, 2020, 06:29:51 PM »

Almost exactly six years ago I posted how the starter solenoid cover melted/exploded. And I repaired it with bypass leads. It has worked great for six years but tonight I heard that awful ZAP sound on start up. I was hoping the zap came from the lead attachment point and not at the solenoid block. YES. After tearing into it. The plastic tube of the butt joint link was burned through. So all I had to do was wrap each butt joint separately and all is well again. I did buy a new red plastic connector. Soon I will probably restore the whole thing back to stock.



All back together and working fine for now



« Last Edit: November 20, 2020, 07:07:45 PM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
indybobm
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Posts: 1600

Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #1 on: November 21, 2020, 06:03:02 AM »

If I remember correctly, when you did the first repair you sealed it up with RTV or something and taped it up. I understand the need to keep water out, but did that keep the heat in? 
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
RonW
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Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #2 on: November 21, 2020, 06:23:39 AM »

I think it's better to overlap the opposing ends of the red wire to prevent a non copper-to-copper joint from heating up. The red wire feeds the key switch, really all the circuits on the bike. Most butt connectors don't allow an overlap since they have some kind of stop midway in the barrel unless you drill it out. Only one red wire on the entire bike. The battery positive is red but a cable.
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14761


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #3 on: November 21, 2020, 09:47:27 AM »

If I remember correctly, when you did the first repair you sealed it up with RTV or something and taped it up. I understand the need to keep water out, but did that keep the heat in? 

It didn’t have a problem at the solenoid where I gooped  in the liquid tape. It was at the point where the jumpers tied into the main wires.
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ridingron
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Posts: 1176


Orlando


« Reply #4 on: November 21, 2020, 06:47:46 PM »

Any idea what caused the recent problem?
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14761


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #5 on: November 21, 2020, 07:00:02 PM »

Any idea what caused the recent problem?

My guess is the same thing that causes the original problem . Heat builds up and breaks down the insulating quality of the plastic and boom a short happens. I have them more than sufficiently separated now
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h13man
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To everything there is an exception.

Indiana NW Central Flatlands


« Reply #6 on: November 23, 2020, 06:37:04 AM »

Take the plastic off the butt splice and replace it with heat shrink.
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RonW
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Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #7 on: November 23, 2020, 08:14:38 AM »

The wires don't have open ends anymore to slip on shrink tubing or pumpkin pie. Very little space for electrical tape either.
« Last Edit: November 23, 2020, 08:16:35 AM by RonW » Logged

2000 Valkyrie Tourer
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14761


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #8 on: November 23, 2020, 08:29:36 AM »

The wires don't have open ends anymore to slip on shrink tubing or pumpkin pie. Very little space for electrical tape either.

I was able to get my very thick tape wrapped around each butt joint individually. No chance of a short now cooldude
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RonW
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Newport Beach


« Reply #9 on: November 23, 2020, 08:48:29 AM »

This is an advantage of adhesive type shrink tubing (heat activated adhesive). Never tried it (disclaimer), slit the tubing lengthwise and wrap the rectangle around the joint.
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14761


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #10 on: November 23, 2020, 01:51:22 PM »

This is an advantage of adhesive type shrink tubing (heat activated adhesive). Never tried it (disclaimer), slit the tubing lengthwise and wrap the rectangle around the joint.

I tried that. Slit then shrink. Doesn’t work as well as you’d think
« Last Edit: November 24, 2020, 08:25:34 PM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
Ramie
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2001 I/S St. Michael MN


« Reply #11 on: November 24, 2020, 07:47:23 PM »

Ran across these on the shadow forum, they look like they work good from the pics.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083DXC9TP/?coliid=I2VSKIK31BZ1RZ&colid=1Z7IIQL7QIJIB&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
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“I am not a courageous person by nature. I have simply discovered that, at certain key moments in this life, you must find courage in yourself, in order to move forward and live. It is like a muscle and it must be exercised, first a little, and then more and more.  A deep breath and a leap.”
Challenger
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Posts: 1285


« Reply #12 on: November 25, 2020, 07:37:12 AM »

The melted connectors and relays are generally caused by a loose connection much like a loose battery terminal will melt the battery post off . It starts off with a little corrosion causing a weak connection and gradually gets worse through each heating cycle.
 
[quote author=Ramie link=topic=114301.msg1154598#msg1154598
Ran across these on the shadow forum, they look like they work good from the pics.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083DXC9TP/?coliid=I2VSKIK31BZ1RZ&colid=1Z7IIQL7QIJIB&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
[/quote]

I used these connectors on a 54 Chevy pick-up rebuild and they work well. The problem is you have to be very careful with the heat gun to not melt any close wires while heating the connector hot enough to melt the internal solder.

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