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Inzane 17
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Author Topic: Rust in my fuel tank  (Read 1457 times)
FLAVALK
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Posts: 2699


Winter Springs, Florida


« on: November 24, 2020, 09:31:30 AM »

Ok, I used the search function and found several references to rust in the tank and mentions of doing this and that but no specific procedure start to finish. I have moderate rust in my ‘98 Standard tank and was considering the following.

1. Remove everything from the tank. Petcock, filler trim, etc
2. Plug the petcock hole and mount the tank on a jig so its easy to handle and drain.
3. Use a water soluble degreaser like “Power Purple”. Dilute it about 50% with water, and fill the tank about 2/3 full.
4. Shake the tank, let it sit, shake some more, let it sit for about 30 minutes. Shake again And drain the tank.
5. Repeat step #4

Note: I’ve seen where some folks use agitators such as hex nuts and BB’s in the tank to help knock off the rust but I’m afraid I could never get the all out. So decided to skip this.

6. Fill the tank full with white vinegar to kill the rust a let it sit over night. Drain
7. Fill the tank 2/3 full with distilled water, shake, shake, shake and drain.
8. Repeat step 6 until water comes out clear
9. Uses leaf blower to force excess water from the tank
10. Use hair dryer to dry out the tank
11. Immediately use about a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil to completely coat the tank interior then drain.

I do not plan to line the tank as the are no pinholes.

For those of you who’ve been down this road, please provide feedback and let me know if I’m on the right track. If you know of a proven procedure, please link it.

Thank you all
« Last Edit: November 24, 2020, 11:07:29 AM by FLAVALK » Logged

Live From Sunny Winter Springs Florida via Huntsville Alabama
Bagger John - #3785
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Posts: 1952



« Reply #1 on: November 24, 2020, 12:58:03 PM »

I can't remember the name of the product, but there's a tank treatment that will turn the rust back into base metal. I'll see if I can find it.
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Madmike
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Posts: 837


Campbell River BC, Canada


« Reply #2 on: November 24, 2020, 01:09:39 PM »

I can't remember the name of the product, but there's a tank treatment that will turn the rust back into base metal. I'll see if I can find it.

POR15 is not a convertor but claims to bond with the corrosion and so seal it. 
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yrunvs
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Posts: 205


Prior Lake, Minnesota


« Reply #3 on: November 24, 2020, 01:40:58 PM »

These videos should be helpful to you

https://youtu.be/NzYVbCFUu3M

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xphC3oy1mwA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hda12k__UWg
« Last Edit: November 24, 2020, 01:44:56 PM by yrunvs » Logged

I'm no gynecologist but hey I'll take a look!
Bagger John - #3785
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Posts: 1952



« Reply #4 on: November 25, 2020, 07:45:55 AM »

I can't remember the name of the product, but there's a tank treatment that will turn the rust back into base metal. I'll see if I can find it.

POR15 is not a convertor but claims to bond with the corrosion and so seal it. 
Have used it on one I/S tank with good results. IIRC, Harley-Davidson uses an OEM formulation of the stuff to seal their tanks.
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Gondul
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Posts: 260


VRCC #408

Central Florida


« Reply #5 on: November 25, 2020, 03:09:15 PM »

You can use Evapo-rust to clear out the rust
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FLAVALK
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Posts: 2699


Winter Springs, Florida


« Reply #6 on: November 26, 2020, 06:18:41 AM »

Have you taken a sample of what is in there?  Some bikes can get a light coating of sediment in the tank that at first glance resembles rust.  You see it in the bottom.

Got rust?  Removal is determined by how heavy the rust is in there.  Heavy rust in a British bike tank required putting a handful of nuts and a few bolts in there.  Filled it 2/3 with hot water and then Tide.  Shake it until you feel like your arms will fall off.  And that is just step one. 

The way our tanks are configured, I don’t think tossing in a handful of nuts is prudent. I’d never get those things out. I did buy a section of Jack Chain that I can hold on to and rattle around
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Live From Sunny Winter Springs Florida via Huntsville Alabama
FLAVALK
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Posts: 2699


Winter Springs, Florida


« Reply #7 on: November 26, 2020, 06:23:13 AM »

I think I’ve decided to do a two step approach. First, use Naphtha to eliminate varnish and crud build up and then follow that up with 2-3 days of electrolysis. I’ve seen some very good results on YouTube. After that I may line the tank with Por 15
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Live From Sunny Winter Springs Florida via Huntsville Alabama
FLAVALK
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Posts: 2699


Winter Springs, Florida


« Reply #8 on: November 26, 2020, 06:24:35 AM »

You can use Evapo-rust to clear out the rust

Thanks, I’ll check that out.
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Live From Sunny Winter Springs Florida via Huntsville Alabama
Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #9 on: November 26, 2020, 06:41:47 AM »

I would suggest to first use a strong solution of a cleaner like purple power or orange magic, something like the organic cleaners.

With the advent of oxygenated fuels that contain ethanol the possibility of the contamination in the tank being organic is very likely and hydrocarbon based cleaners have little success against these kind of contaminants.

The last and final treatment should be to get rid of the rust.

And finally, there have been a multitude of horror stories regarding coating the insides of a fuel tank with some kind protective layer. Eventually they fail and clog up every part of the fuel system.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Oldfishguy
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Posts: 717


central Minnesota


« Reply #10 on: November 26, 2020, 11:09:42 AM »


I’ve resurrected more than a few older bikes and this is the product I use. Buy 2 gallons of it, pull the tank and drain it, remove the petcock and plug the hole with a wine cork or other, pour the two gallons in and then fill to the top with water, let it sit for at least 24 hours, remove the product (I save mine for the next restoration), rinse the tank a few times with gas, and reinstall.

 Definately do not line the tank unless you have pinholes. 


https://www.superchargedmotorsports.com/product-p/wh290487.htm

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