larue
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« on: November 29, 2020, 08:36:45 PM » |
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Installed a small amp under the seat a while back, speaker wires going to amp were kinda tight , wiggled them a little and heard a loud bang. Connection to harness was loose at male female wires. Crumped them a bit and it’s good. Key on and no display on dash, I only have the gas level showing. checked Audio back up fuse and was blown , replaced it immediately with no success because the fuse gets fried soon as it made contact with housing!!you can see sparks soon as it touches the slot. Burnt 3 in a row and I stopped. All lights work just no tunes. Your help is appreciated I hate electrical stuff
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« Last Edit: December 02, 2020, 04:39:06 AM by larue »
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Bighead
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« Reply #1 on: November 29, 2020, 08:46:18 PM » |
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You have a dead ground somewhere it sounds good to me.
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1997 Bumble Bee 1999 Interstate (sold) 2016 Wing
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indybobm
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« Reply #2 on: November 30, 2020, 07:03:18 AM » |
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Sounds more like the 12v wire is pinched and grounded.
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So many roads, so little time VRCC # 5258
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Top Cat NJ
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« Reply #3 on: November 30, 2020, 03:29:10 PM » |
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I reinstalled my saddlebags (replaced brake pads) and went for a ride, my horn didn't work, when I got home I checked and my rear blinkers and they didn't work, one of my fuses was bad, I put a new one in, started my bike and it blew again. I looked at my saddle bag bolts and saw the blinker wire under the bolt inside the grab rail (custom blinkers) was squashed. After fixing the wires, I was much more careful when I tightened the bolt, making sure the wire was above the bolt. A new fuse and all was good. Mine was an easy fix, yours seems more stressful. Good luck.
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larue
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« Reply #4 on: November 30, 2020, 04:39:49 PM » |
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It’s indeed stressful and I love my tunes, now not really sure where to start
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larue
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« Reply #5 on: November 30, 2020, 04:43:04 PM » |
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Sounds more like the 12v wire is pinched and grounded.
Where’s this wire?!!
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John Schmidt
Member
    
Posts: 15202
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #6 on: December 01, 2020, 09:50:16 PM » |
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Hey bud, you need help really, really bad! Just set up a cot in your garage for about 3 mo. and I'll come and lend a hand.  Just go back to the wires going to the amp and follow them from beginning to end. Pretty sure you'll find the short which is most likely a power lead pinched and shorted to ground.
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larue
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« Reply #7 on: December 02, 2020, 05:38:02 AM » |
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Hey bud, you need help really, really bad! Just set up a cot in your garage for about 3 mo. and I'll come and lend a hand.  Just go back to the wires going to the amp and follow them from beginning to end. Pretty sure you'll find the short which is most likely a power lead pinched and shorted to ground. Hey john , my garage hot 3 valkyries and a kit car already lol no room there . The power wire to the amp is right under the seat and hooked to battery, it’s about 10” long no damage to it. The amp is also under the seat in the tool box.
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spongebob
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« Reply #8 on: December 02, 2020, 05:15:56 PM » |
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well hurry up and find it..... Then spill the beans on what you find.....
Cuz.... weeks ago I got out my Interstate, cranked bike... No speedometer .. no tachometer.... just fuel gauge..... and I ain't been under seat or in fairing......
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larue
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« Reply #9 on: December 03, 2020, 04:49:20 AM » |
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well hurry up and find it..... Then spill the beans on what you find.....
Cuz.... weeks ago I got out my Interstate, cranked bike... No speedometer .. no tachometer.... just fuel gauge..... and I ain't been under seat or in fairing......
Pull the right side cover and change the accessories fuse and you should be fine. Your situation ain’t bad at all.
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Bighead
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« Reply #10 on: December 11, 2020, 06:17:04 AM » |
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well hurry up and find it..... Then spill the beans on what you find.....
Cuz.... weeks ago I got out my Interstate, cranked bike... No speedometer .. no tachometer.... just fuel gauge..... and I ain't been under seat or in fairing......
Or your alternator has gone south.
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1997 Bumble Bee 1999 Interstate (sold) 2016 Wing
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Jersey
Member
    
Posts: 545
VRCC #37540
Southern Maryland
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« Reply #11 on: December 13, 2020, 11:56:39 AM » |
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I've been working on auto/MC electrical systems for decades. 1st Rule of Thumb: Verify EVERYTHING! Down to the finest detail.
Often it's easier to disconnect as much of the power flows and one-by-one check/verify each are ok (no shorted to ground, etc.) Then check the things these power feeds are connected to/through. (the components could be bad).
Always check the ground integrity.
In all connectors, verify there is bare metal (no oxidized or rusted). Clean with emery cloth and reconnect using dielectric. Check the bolt on connections. OFTEN water will seep inbetween over time and cause issues only discoverable after pulling the connectors off.
If you want to do a thorough check, start with the alternator as someone suggested. Check that it's putting out the proper voltage. Next, have the battery check for amperage capability. (Batteries can show voltage, but still be bad putting out the appropriate amps)
Physically follow each wire on the suspected circuit. Follow the OEM schematic inch-by-inch with a hand check. Connect a continuity/volt meter and manipulate the wires and connectors to see if there are any changes occurring. I've seen wires 'look' fine on the outside, but there would be a break inside that you can't see... can only find it through measuring and manipulating.
This is a lot of advice, so suggest picking one wire at a time and slowly working through it to check.
Hope that helps! Jersey
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« Last Edit: December 14, 2020, 04:31:52 AM by Jersey »
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Jersey
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