Final drive & U joint

[TrapperAH1G]

So, good news is I have a new rear tire (dark side) mounted, new O rings and thrust washer, all cleaned and greased and ready to be reassembled.  Everything seemed to be good except there was no O ring in the final drive where the wheel mates up.  Those splines were pretty dry and rusty looking.  Cleaned them up and they seem to be ok, just rust colored, not damaged. 

Bad news is that I can't get the splines on the drive shaft and the U joint lined up and inserted.  Worked on it for a while this afternoon, used up all my curse words and had to retrieve all my"damnit tools".

Is there some trick to getting it back together?  Something that makes it easier?

Thanks

[Bone]

Yes

Make sure the U joint is level or the union can't happen.

[John Schmidt]

Also, put that 5 fingered doodad in place so you can turn the final back/forth to help mate the teeth. It gives you something to grab, making it easier to turn the final gearing. As suggested, the swingarm needs to be pretty level to do the insertion. That causes the u-joint to drop down and you can then easily aim toward the bottom of the s/a housing with the driveshaft. Just pick up the u-joint with the front edge of the shaft and try turning the gears in the final at the same time. Might take a few trys....or just a few seconds. All depends on the color of you socks, direction of the wind, and which Tuesday of the week it happens to be. 

[Chrisj CMA]

Like what was said, swing arm level. I find it easier if you sit directly behind the drive shaft side of the swing arm

If it hangs up. Jiggle it vigorously with light pressure and it will go. Don’t get tempted to separate the driveshaft from the final drive.

Good luck

[TrapperAH1G]

Thanks for the info from all.  It worked and the reassembly went very smooth.  Rainy here but had a brief interlude that allowed me to take a short ride in my neighborhood.  No wierd noises, vibrations, etc.  This tire is Comtrac 185/75-16 and fits fine.   It's close on the swing arm right side, about the width of an open end wrench.  It's tall and I'm going to ride with the stock shocks for awhile to see if it's possible to go shorter so I can flatfoot again.  I have a Zeetex CT1000 this same size on my Shadow Tourer and it works great with 11" Progressives.

Plan to take the Valk out for a couple of hours this Saturday.  That's the only day with a dry window for the next ten days.  Then I leave to visit family for Christmas so no riding 'til after the new year.

Hope all here have a very Merry Cristmas, stay healthy and may the new year bring an end to this madness.  God bless and save America.

[gordonv]

Did you follow the proper procedures listed in Shoptalk? Tighten axle first, then the 4 rear end/drive bolts (if I've gotten it right).

[yrunvs]

So, good news is I have a new rear tire (dark side) mounted, new O rings and thrust washer, all cleaned and greased and ready to be reassembled.  Everything seemed to be good except there was no O ring in the final drive where the wheel mates up.  Those splines were pretty dry and rusty looking.  Cleaned them up and they seem to be ok, just rust colored, not damaged. 

Bad news is that I can't get the splines on the drive shaft and the U joint lined up and inserted.  Worked on it for a while this afternoon, used up all my curse words and had to retrieve all my"damnit tools".

Is there some trick to getting it back together?  Something that makes it easier?

Thanks

What method did you use to get the driveshaft splines back into the ujoint? I remember when I had my driveshaft out I was having a hell off a time getting it back in and then I read an old post on here on a trick to do it but for the life of me I cant remember what it was.

[The emperor has no clothes]

So, good news is I have a new rear tire (dark side) mounted, new O rings and thrust washer, all cleaned and greased and ready to be reassembled.  Everything seemed to be good except there was no O ring in the final drive where the wheel mates up.  Those splines were pretty dry and rusty looking.  Cleaned them up and they seem to be ok, just rust colored, not damaged. 

Bad news is that I can't get the splines on the drive shaft and the U joint lined up and inserted.  Worked on it for a while this afternoon, used up all my curse words and had to retrieve all my"damnit tools".

Is there some trick to getting it back together?  Something that makes it easier?

Thanks

What method did you use to get the driveshaft splines back into the ujoint? I remember when I had my driveshaft out I was having a hell off a time getting it back in and then I read an old post on here on a trick to do it but for the life of me I cant remember what it was.

The best thing to do is to raise the swing arm up. I use a simple tie down strap. You might have to jiggle it a little. Or not, sometimes they go straight in.

[JimC]

What I have found to work best;
raise the swing arm level,
Look into the swing arm with flash light so you can see Ujoint,
Take a broom stick handle and insert into the end of the ujoint and turn it so the ujoint swings left to right,
not dropping down. Center the ujoint in the swing arm.

This keeps the ujoint level, if it drops down, you will have a very hard time getting them to mesh.
Good luck, it is actually easier to do than to describe.

Jim

[Valker]

I also use my hand or a helpers hand (one of my sons) to squeeze the boot to feel the u joint and lift the end a bit.

[TrapperAH1G]

As suggested, I put that 'five fingered doodad" in, made sure the swing arm was level, then ran the drive shaft in low to catch the ujoint.  When I felt what I thought was the "mating" of the two, I applied a little pressure and rotated the doodad.  Needed a little jiggling along with a few minor curse words and they slipped together!  Yes, made sure to leave the 4 nuts "loose" until wheel and hub were mated. 

Used about 15 oz of RideOn for balance, rode close to 100 miles today to ensure all was well.  She's in the shed now until January.  Gonna be out of town 'til then.  I hope I like this tire as much as I do the Zeetex on my 1100 Tourer.  Will update as the miles pile up.

Ride safe.