P2096 code 2014 hyundai santa fe 3.3L V6 FWD

[cookiedough]

kid called me service engine soon light came on today.  She went to autozone showed P2096 code which means too lean (too much air vs. fuel mixture).  It has 100K miles on it and reading up on it could be vacuum leak (doubt it only 6 years old) or fuel related (bad gas, fuel pump, etc.) or o2 sensors or exhaust leak (doubt it) or clogged fuel injectors or bad catalytic converter (doubt it only 6 years old mostly hwy miles) or misfire or spark plugs?  

Reading lots of info online and most are taking it to a Hyundai dealer and dealer playing crap shoot replacing o2 sensors and not working on most Hyundai vehicles charging customers and not resolving the issue on all Hyundai models.   I do not have much faith in any Hyundai dealers around me charging guessing 300 bucks for no remedy after my front suspension issue I had on this santa fe a few years ago dealer not knowing what front struts go on it with accompanying parts that did NOT fit.

any other suggestions?  She said she has noticed last few days it hesitate when stepping on gas off idle just a little bit.    It seems either upon startup or at idle low speed conditions it can act up vs. 60  mph hwy speeds.   Kid is 3.5 hours away so not like I can go up there without taking off a full day of work and mess around with stuff and that is not happening right now.  

sounds like could be a crap shoot of hodge podge things just guessing at straws of what is wrong?  Maybe the scanner diagnostic tools shops have are more specific of what the problem might be vs. what the autozone scan tool is?    NO other codes were listed.

I told her for now today go buy techron or lucas fuel treatment putting a can in gas tank and go get 91 octane non ethanol gas next fillup in next few days.  Could be bad gas as well just filled up day before light came on being today but doubt it?  

[cookiedough]

I could throw 160 bucks into replacing two o2 sensors but might not be it or change spark plugs since 100K miles probably due to change them?  1st issue with SUV besides front struts going bad at 60K miles and that was a joke attempting to get the right components that fit that SUV from hyundai dealer of which went elsewhere after the part numbers showing in hyundai schematics did NOT fit.

not a tech but watched youtube video of unplugging o2 sensors and put my voltmeter to OHMS setting and touch both black wire inside plug in and should register, if not read, the o2 sensor is bad.  I guess if correct could test the o2 sensors 1st? 

[CoreyP]

Rare that the O2 sensors are at fault for the problem.

If it's out of warranty take to a good garage not the stealership.

[Robert]

I think you are taking the right path, rarely have I seen o2 sensors bad. If the car has a MAF sensor I would do that before the sensors. I would also check the fuel pressure and air intake leak. Check the pvc valve also make sure you do not have to much vacuum in the crankcase when you pull off the oil cap. Should be a slight to no vacuum when put your hand over the hole you took the cap out of. Have seen some that would suck your hand or had straight vacuum.

In regards to the MAF sensor I looked and I doubt your car has one but it may have a MAP sensor which could also be replaced or bad. Like all diagnostics rarely can a lean condition be pin pointed because a sensor like the MAP sensor may be in range but not measuring accurately therefore will not show up as bad.

Unfortunately 02 sensors get the blame since the engine computer measures rich to lean timings and ratios and knows its running lean but cannot pinpoint the problem. So many replace 02 sensors thinking they are bad or just needing to charge for something. But when you have multiple 02 sensors all saying the same thing its hard to imagine them all being bad.

Plastic manifolds dont help either since they can distort, leak and you would never know it. The MAP is cheap enough and some fuel cleaner would more than likely be my guess but dont forget to check fuel pressure also.

[Jersey mike]

Good call on the Techron, my wife’s ‘99 Camry (350k) has been acting up after fill up with a similar issue after fill up, my mechanic told me the same thing run some Techron through it. I asked him about running higher octane and his answer was it’s not necessary.

Sure enough after a few days the light went off. Barbara”s Camry sits now because she’s not commuting anymore and typically is only driven to the supermarket and back.

As long as the service light isn’t blinking it’s not an issue.

[Bret SD]

I think you are taking the right path, rarely have I seen o2 sensors bad. If the car has a MAF sensor I would do that before the sensors. I would also check the fuel pressure and air intake leak. Check the pvc valve also make sure you do not have to much vacuum in the crankcase when you pull off the oil cap. Should be a slight to no vacuum when put your hand over the hole you took the cap out of. Have seen some that would suck your hand or had straight vacuum.

In regards to the MAF sensor I looked and I doubt your car has one but it may have a MAP sensor which could also be replaced or bad. Like all diagnostics rarely can a lean condition be pin pointed because a sensor like the MAP sensor may be in range but not measuring accurately therefore will not show up as bad.

Unfortunately 02 sensors get the blame since the engine computer measures rich to lean timings and ratios and knows its running lean but cannot pinpoint the problem. So many replace 02 sensors thinking they are bad or just needing to charge for something. But when you have multiple 02 sensors all saying the same thing its hard to imagine them all being bad.

Plastic manifolds dont help either since they can distort, leak and you would never know it. The MAP is cheap enough and some fuel cleaner would more than likely be my guess but dont forget to check fuel pressure also.

This is a good analysis and is exactly what I was thinking, it may be something as simple as a semi-clogged fuel filter. Lack of fuel pressure will cause all kinds of mischief.

[Skinhead]

I haven't read all of the replies, but I would start by making sure the oil dip stick and all canister purge and vacuum lines are connected/intact.  There may also be a hose or tube that connects to the inlet duct just after the MAF sensor.  All these things are related to the crank case breather system, if they are not installed correctly, they could result in an unmeasured air leak that will lean out you A/F mixture.  MAF sensors rarely fail, but debris on the sensor can cause erroneous readings so I would check for that as well.  Do this before dropping a large amount of money on replacing parts hit or miss.  If you can find a mechanic with the equipment to monitor the data or review the snapshot data when the code set, they could help narrow down the problem.

[bentwrench]

Don't  forget to ck the rubber tube between the throttle and the MAF. At 100k it could be the culprit.
Unmetered air= lean mixture.

[Jess Tolbirt]

most indy shops have a genisus(sp) computer to hook up to the car. they go a lot deeper than the code readers that most parts houses have.. have them do a read out for you and it will most likely pin point it for you...

[Patrick]

I come from a dealership, but, things have changed over the decades. If you can find a GOOD honest independent I'd recommend that route.

A lot of good info above. Air leaks are common today and can be a royal PITA to find.

[Jersey mike]

I come from a dealership, but, things have changed over the decades. If you can find a GOOD honest independent I'd recommend that route.

A lot of good info above. Air leaks are common today and can be a royal PITA to find.

There was a good trick many mechanics would use to find an air or vacuum leak which would help narrow down its location. I believe it was spraying either ether/starting fluid or Gumout spray around the hoses and connections. If you hear a change in idle you’re in the right area.