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Author Topic: Turn signals, running lights  (Read 1487 times)
TrapperAH1G
Member
*****
Posts: 197

Toledo, WA


« on: January 15, 2021, 06:44:01 PM »

To start:  doing walk around this am before riding.  Right side running light and turn signals not working.  Checked bulbs, looked okay.  Cleaned bulbs and sockets, dialectic grease, running light on, signals work but flash fast (light burned out bulb).  Left side fine.  Had to leave it at that and get on the road.

Home later, right front signal inop, rear blinks fast.  Left side fine.  Opened switch, cleaned, greased, reassembled.  No change.  Took right front bulb out, cleaned and greased again.  Decided maybe it is the bulb so switched with left side.  Nope, not working.....but now the left front isn't working with the replacement bulb!  Put original left bulb back in place, replacement bulb in right side again.

NOW, neither front works at all and the rear signals flash fast.

WTH?  Figure to get new bulbs and grease (maybe absorbed moisture somehow?) and clean and change front lights. 

Have a nice ride planned and need these!
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vanagon40
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Posts: 1461

Greenwood, IN


« Reply #1 on: January 15, 2021, 06:57:03 PM »

Remember, dielectric grease repels moisture and protects electrical connections against corrosion. The grease does not conduct electricity, so it shouldn't be applied directly to the mating surfaces (pins and sockets) of an electrical connection.

Make sure the bulbs are good (maybe test outside the Valkrie sockets) and the contact surfaces are clean and corrosion free.

My guess is a combination of bad bulbs and poor mating surfaces. Good luck.
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #2 on: January 15, 2021, 08:25:19 PM »

I had a similar problem once. Had to completely take apart switch assembly and clean thoroughly. Been good for years.
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CoreyP
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Posts: 476


Bluffton, SC


« Reply #3 on: January 15, 2021, 10:18:50 PM »

Did you unscrew and take out the metal plate that holds the bulb in? I had the same problem and what had happened is the plastic had snapped off under the metal plate which made the bulb crooked, not a huge amount but just a little. That was enough for it not to work.

There is a whole story that goes with this problem for me. LOL. Check that something didn't break and check the wires that go back to the headlight.

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Jersey
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Posts: 545


VRCC #37540

Southern Maryland


« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2021, 07:32:13 AM »

May want to checkout the maintenance video on the Support Page of Jerseymcproducts.com

When individual lights start to have issues like you've described, it's important to follow the electricity through the schematic.  Verify each step is sound.  As mentioned, the Turn Switch internal copper connections can seriously deteriorate over time and require a full disassemble and reconditioning.  Don't just spray something inside as that will not fix the damage that can be caused.

Jersey
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Jersey
MarkT
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Posts: 5196


VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


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« Reply #5 on: January 17, 2021, 12:18:42 PM »

May want to checkout the maintenance video on the Support Page of Jerseymcproducts.com

When individual lights start to have issues like you've described, it's important to follow the electricity through the schematic.  Verify each step is sound.  As mentioned, the Turn Switch internal copper connections can seriously deteriorate over time and require a full disassemble and reconditioning.  Don't just spray something inside as that will not fix the damage that can be caused.

Jersey


Good advice particularly this.  I'll add, if you don't have this already, is get a can of electrical contact cleaner / lube for restoring function of the contacts.  NAPA makes it among others.
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Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
TrapperAH1G
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Posts: 197

Toledo, WA


« Reply #6 on: January 18, 2021, 06:37:35 PM »

Okay, so took switch apart and cleaned, cleaned all the bulbs and contacts.  Still no front lights.  Replaced front bulbs....everything fine!  Went on my ride.  About half way done and getting a fast blink signal when the right turns are activated.  Right front, no running or blinker.  Right rear blinks fast, Left side fine.

Figure I've got a short or something loose in the signal housing.  I really hate electrical.
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JimC
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Posts: 1818

SE Wisconsin


« Reply #7 on: January 19, 2021, 07:30:54 AM »

I had a similar problem that I could not get to work until I replaced the turn signal flasher unit. (under the seat by the relays on an interstate)

Jim
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Jim Callaghan    SE Wisconsin
da prez
Member
*****
Posts: 4354

. Rhinelander Wi. Island Lake Il.


« Reply #8 on: January 19, 2021, 09:31:47 AM »

  Instead of replacing the bulbs , use a known good (test it on the battery) test light. Ground the test light to an engine ground. Check the contacts inside the light socket. If they should happen to test good , then ground the test light to the nearest ground on the forks. If it fails to work , the fork ground is bad. You can also use a jumper wire as an additional ground from the forks to the engine.  I should have started with , remove and clean all the ground connections.  Good luck , do not assume ,go step by step.

                                   da prez
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Jersey
Member
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Posts: 545


VRCC #37540

Southern Maryland


« Reply #9 on: January 19, 2021, 02:16:06 PM »

If you're thinking of a new relay, may want to consider getting the SignalBoss from Jersey MC Products.

Features:
-Eliminates the OEM relay
-supports both Incandescent or LED in any of the sockets
-AutoCancel Turn Signals (User configurable while riding)
-4-way Hazard and Escort flashers (With the Key IN or OUT)
-Plug and Play
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Jersey
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