OK..got the fanless adjustable LED headlights from 2KVISRiderDan. A question...

[John Schmidt]

Nowhere in the instruction booklet does it either show or describe which way is up. Since nothing is wired up yet I have no way of applying power. At the moment the fairing is off(mostly) and sitting on the fender on a blanket and I haven't installed the handlebars from the old bike yet. This gives a wide open access to the lamp housings. Not sure what to do at this point, don't want to assemble everything since in its present state it's easy to access and adjust as needed....if I knew which way is up.
(for the bulbs, in case you all think it sounds like a personal problem) 

[John Schmidt]

Think I got it. I know the shield goes under the low beam filament to prevent emitted light from bouncing off both the upper and lower half of the reflector. The high beam has no shield so as a result emitted light is reflected off the entire housing...not just the upper portion as in the low beam. Hence you have a full bright beam going out.

Make sense? Maybe I do know which way is up after all! What a relief. Had to go back a few years(more than a few actually) to refresh the gray matter on how bulbs are designed to work so as to provide a hi/lo beam.

[Jims99]

You’ll want low beam to face up to reflect off the top of the reflectors which will aim down. I think the tabs on mine were spaced to only fit one way. Can’t wait to see the new bike finished up. Sounds like you’re getting a lot done.

[John Schmidt]

You’ll want low beam to face up to reflect off the top of the reflectors which will aim down. I think the tabs on mine were spaced to only fit one way. Can’t wait to see the new bike finished up. Sounds like you’re getting a lot done.

Yes, that internal shield is what restricts the low beam so it only reflects off the upper half of the reflector housing. Was tinkering with something else and it suddenly stirred the gray matter from years past. I then recalled how/why the shield was positioned to created hi/lo beams. I dropped what I was doing and installed the new LED bulbs...had to cut off two of the tabs to make them fit. These came with one large tab at the top, one near 7 o'clock and one near 4 o'clock. With the top one in place, the other two simply didn't come close to matching the other slots and cutting off just one didn't help to the two bottm tab were cut. These came with a removeable base which serves as a heat sink and sorta pear shaped. It unscrews from the base of the lamp so it's first removed before inserting the bulb. Next you fasten it down with the spring clip, then install the rubber boot. Lastly, screw the heat sink in place through the boot with the narrow end in first. It will screw in all the way until it bottoms out. Now the lamp is installed.

The adjustable part merely involves loosening the tiny allen heads to allow you to align the top center tab to the center of the lamp housing so when installed it will shine straight out and not cockeyed off to one side. If I like how they look I'll help install a second set in my son-in-law's I/S. Now, it's on to adapting the wiring from the handlebars off the old bike to the I/S. No adaptation in moving the I/S bars to the Tourer....I bought a used set of controls so will just swap them out.

[2KVISRiderDan]

Sounds like you got them figured out John. Everything you stated makes good sense. Please post some pics when done.

[gordonv]

Pictures?

I thought they would be like the H4 bulbs, and you remove 2 tabs. So the one would be the top.

[John Schmidt]

Here ya go Gordon, best I can do at the moment using the uninstalled set I still have.

This pear shaped heat sink screws off.


As you can see....lots of threads.


You first have to unscrew the cap at this joint and pull the cable apart...gently. The heat sink will then slip over the connection after you unscrew it from the lamp.


No matter how I moved it around, when the large tab at the top is in place, neither of the lower tabs at 7 & 4 o'clock lined up with their respective slots so I removed them. They came off easy with a pair of side cutters.


Notice the openings in the lamp base at 9 & 3 o'clock. That gives access to tiny allen head screws on either side(wrench included in the kit) which allows you to align the top tab with the top center rib of the lamp. If not squared up with it, your beam will be cockeyed in one direction or t'other. Obviously, some installations on different vehicles won't have the aligning tab at the top. On those, you will need to loosen those screws so as to adjust the top rib of the lamp to be at 12:00 o'clock regardless of the location of the tabs.


Note the two sets of yellow LED chips. The forward & slightly raised set are the low beam. Underneath them you can see the reflecting barrier. That causes the low beam to only reflect off the upper part of the reflective housing. When the rear set are illuminated, since there's no barrier they reflect off the entire housing, thereby giving the high beam.


The final steps then are to 1) place the lamp in the housing. 2) snap the springy thing in place over the lamp base. 3) put the rubber boot in place. 4) screw on the pear shaped heat sink, narrow end first. It will screw down and through the boot. 5) attach the new connector to the lamp and reconnect the cables where separated originally. I then used some zip ties to anchor the new cabling to the framework of the fairing. Hope this helps anyone looking at using this kit.

As yet I don't have the fairing back in place so can't show any pics of the LED lamps illuminated. Still have some wiring adaptation to do and it's subzero in the garage so not happening any time soon.

[gordonv]

  Thank you, makes a lot more sense now.

I suspect that those threads are so long, so they have contact to the heat sinks.

It's so amazing those little flat things throw so much light.

[John Schmidt]

Thank you, makes a lot more sense now.

I suspect that those threads are so long, so they have contact to the heat sinks.

It's so amazing those little flat things throw so much light.

Re. threads, when you screw that heat sink back on after installing the rubber boot, it will actually go all the way back down to the lamp base. That was a point of concern until I realized they went all the way back on for full effect.

As for those flat things, they merely block light from reaching the lower half of the reflector housing.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Thank you, makes a lot more sense now.

I suspect that those threads are so long, so they have contact to the heat sinks.

It's so amazing those little flat things throw so much light.

Re. threads, when you screw that heat sink back on after installing the rubber boot, it will actually go all the way back down to the lamp base. That was a point of concern until I realized they went all the way back on for full effect.

As for those flat things, they merely block light from reaching the lower half of the reflector housing.

As in "little flat things", I think he's talking about the little yellow emitters.

Actually, all light converting machines are pretty fascinating. From the way neon works, to metal filaments, they are all pretty cool.

[John Schmidt]

Aha...now that I think about it you're probably right. 

[gordonv]

Yes, the LEDs, I was trying to be "smart". 

[Valkorado]

Those are the exact bulbs I am using in both Ruby and the Silver Bullet.   I had tried a handful with mixed results before finding these.   They produce the best pattern of any LED bulbs that I've used.

[John Schmidt]

Yes, the LEDs, I was trying to be "smart". 

....these days, like other things in my life at this age....all I can do is try!