Rear wheel removal

[f6john]

It’s been more than a decade since I pulled a rear wheel. I have most everything off the bike already. Bags, bag rails, exhaust, brake caliper bracket, axle removed, spacer removed. I have moved the wheels as far to the left, brake side, as I can and the wheel still won’t drop down. Is the drive flange with the pins supposed to come out with the wheel? Mine is staying with the differential. I didn’t want to start prying on anything if that’s not the case. What am I missing?

[sandy]

The drive flange (5 pins) is suppose to stay in the drive unit. I guess it’s come out a little which would cause what you’re saying. Try using a long screwdriver to pry it back in. If that doesn’t work, remove the 4 bolts holding the drive unit in the swing arm. Remove the wheel and unit together. Then they will come apart on the floor.
BTW; You didn’t have to remove the pipes. The book says to, but it can be done by removing the shocks and raising the axle above the bag supports.

[itsblue]

What "Sandy" said. I just pulled my rear wheel today and ended up removing final drive for same reason.

[f6john]

Thanks for the replies. I didn’t remove the pipes for the wheel removal. Just doing a thorough cleaning job of the whole bike.

[RonW]

my five-star flange stayed in the wheel.

Is it better to keep the axle on when you start prying the pumpkin from the rear wheel?

(tire removed for clarity)

[da prez]

  I use a large drift punch on problem bikes. The axle works well , but usually in need of cleaning.  I also use it for reassembly. Install the drift punch from the left side , get everything aligned and use the axle to push the punch out. 

                                         da prez

[Chrisj CMA]

The flange needs to stay with the wheel. Anyone that says it needs to stay stuck in the final drive has never removed a rear wheel with the flange stuck in the final drive. Re insert the wheel onto the flange. Put the axle back in without the caliper plate or spacer and use a large screwdriver at the bottom of the final drive, that squared hole will provide access to pry the flange from the final drive and free the wheel.

[Chrisj CMA]

The drive flange (5 pins) is suppose to stay in the drive unit. I guess it’s come out a little which would cause what you’re saying. Try using a long screwdriver to pry it back in. If that doesn’t work, remove the 4 bolts holding the drive unit in the swing arm. Remove the wheel and unit together. Then they will come apart on the floor.
BTW; You didn’t have to remove the pipes. The book says to, but it can be done by removing the shocks and raising the axle above the bag supports.

This is absolutely wrong

[Chrisj CMA]

What "Sandy" said. I just pulled my rear wheel today and ended up removing final drive for same reason.

Really

[itsblue]

Sorry I wasn't clear and misread the post. I pulled the final drive along with wheel because flange was more or less stuck in the final drive. I was planning to remove final drive anyway so just took it all out at the same time. At least for me the wheel will not come out if the flange is still in the final drive. The five pins prevent removal. Apologies for any confusion. If only the wheel is to be removed then the flange will have to be in the wheel (at least for me). I did not remove pipes just removed shocks and lowered bike so axle could be removed above pipes then raised bike to remove entire wheel/drive assembly.

[MarkT]

When I bought "Jade", '97 Tour with about 26K miles, shipped from MI around 4 years ago, I went over it thoroughly to put it in good maintenance condition.  The rear end had been neglected, probably since new.  The drive splines were completely dry and fused. I could not separate the drive flange from the pumpkin and take it apart normally.  I had to remove the pumpkin with the wheel, pull the wheel off the 5 pins/flange, and then I could pry the fused splines apart. I had a NIB pumpkin with flange so I just replaced the whole assembly.  Now I have that as a spare when needed.

BTW When I change tires or do the rear end maint I put the whole bike on my Snap-On auto table lift - I added a deck to lift bikes.  6,000# capacity, very solid, and with extra wide table - I can ride on, put down sidestand and just park it there w/o using the front wheel clamp.  On the wheel removal, I clamp the front wheel, lift the rear of the bike with a Black Widow scissors lift enough to raise the rear wheel about 4" to insert another Black Widow under it, then after removing the shocks crank the rear lift enough to put the axle above the exhaust.  Faster than other methods of raising the swingarm.  Though it can be done if you don't have an extra Black Widow jack by lifting the bike a lot, put cinder blocks or something under the tire and lower the bike.  BTW it's a challenge to lower the swingarm enough to reinstall 444 13" shocks if you have a belly tank - swingarm hits the tank.  I have to compress the shocks a little - have to use a custom spring compressor.