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Author Topic: Decided to flush the rear brakes on the trike. UGLY!  (Read 1146 times)
John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15200


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« on: May 31, 2021, 02:38:15 PM »

The rear brakes had been working but were rather soft and not real effective so today I decided since it was warm I'd do the deed. I used my handy-dandly home made one man bleeder and when it came to loosening the bleeder screws I held my breath. Last thing I needed was to snap one off with travel time a week away, but they came loose quite easy. When I opened the rear reservoir it looked like a cup of molasses in there as shown in the bottom of the catch jug. Did the left rear first until it came out clean, I did have to use a paper towel and small screwdriver to clean the yellow jello that had collected in the bottom of the reservoir. Next was the right rear with the same appearance but finally came clean as well. Looking at the bottom of the catch jug, you kinda get the impression the PO probably had not paid much attention to maintenance...you'd be right! Those brakes hadn't been flushed since the conversion was done.

As for my bleeder, it's quite simple. I only had one speed bleeder in my stash so ground the pointed end down flat(the end that goes inside the caliper) and drilled a small hole in it. Next, I attached some snug fitting clear tubing to each end and used a couple zip ties to clamp the hose down tight. Using an old plastic jug, I drilled a hole in the top just small enough so the tubing had to be forced in, and drilled a second small hole for pressure relief. I cut the end in the jug with two angles so no matter how it was laying in the bottom it wouldn't be blocked. Then slipped the tube over the bleeder on the caliper and zip tied it tight, loosened the bleeder and started pumping...being careful to keep the reservoir filled. The end of the bleeder that goes into the caliper faces the caliper, same position as if it were installed. All you have to do is pump the brake or clutch and watch the condition of the stuff going into the jug and make sure the reservoir is kept full. My rear brakes now are solid and stop on a dime, and activate with much less pedal.


« Last Edit: May 31, 2021, 02:40:47 PM by John Schmidt » Logged

John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15200


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2021, 03:31:40 PM »

Yes, kinda like that old saying; some learn by watching, some by listening, some still have to pee on the electric fence.  Wink
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..
Member
*****
Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #2 on: June 01, 2021, 05:27:50 AM »

Take a walk among a group of bikes and look at the 2 reservoirs on the handlebars.

I bet over 70% have fluid that looks like thin coffee.

It seems to be a job that many pass on even though it's so easy.
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Top Cat NJ
Member
*****
Posts: 22


« Reply #3 on: June 01, 2021, 06:18:37 AM »

Britman, I bought my 97 Tourer last year, I changed the handlebar reservoirs, the brake reservoir wasn't bad, it was the easy side, when I opened the clutch reservoir, the harder side, it was dark as coffee and had multiple sludge balls. Jeez
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Speedy Coop
Member
*****
Posts: 62


South Wales, New York


« Reply #4 on: June 01, 2021, 06:23:30 AM »

If you have time you may want to disassemble and clean the master cylinder and the caliper. They also get gummed up. I have restored many old bikes and the brake or clutch systems are usually dirty from one end to the other. I do not buy rebuild kits unless something is damaged, just clean and reuse.
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John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15200


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #5 on: June 01, 2021, 07:28:37 AM »

Take a walk among a group of bikes and look at the 2 reservoirs on the handlebars.

I bet over 70% have fluid that looks like thin coffee.

It seems to be a job that many pass on even though it's so easy.
When bleeding/flushing our hydraulic systems, the one issue that always troubled me was air leakage where the tube slipped over the bleeder. A while back I started a different approach...once the tube is in place I used a zip tie and pulled it down tight at the depression bleeder have below the opening. That made all the difference...no more air leaks, especially when using my MityVac.
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..
Member
*****
Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #6 on: June 01, 2021, 10:08:25 AM »

Take a walk among a group of bikes and look at the 2 reservoirs on the handlebars.

I bet over 70% have fluid that looks like thin coffee.

It seems to be a job that many pass on even though it's so easy.
When bleeding/flushing our hydraulic systems, the one issue that always troubled me was air leakage where the tube slipped over the bleeder. A while back I started a different approach...once the tube is in place I used a zip tie and pulled it down tight at the depression bleeder have below the opening. That made all the difference...no more air leaks, especially when using my MityVac.

I'm a Speed Bleeder fan and I have a piece of tubing that has to be forced over the bleeder.

Had it for years.
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CoreyP
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Posts: 476


Bluffton, SC


« Reply #7 on: June 01, 2021, 08:18:48 PM »

My Valkyrie came with speed bleeders, I like those.

Another option to bleed brakes yourself is of course a clear tube, bottle to catch it in but what most people don't know is this. Just take duck bill pliers and put some pressure on the brake line, this will stop the fluid coming back up. Works as a valve. Just squeeze the brake line and pump the lever. with the bleeder valve open. Try it it works.
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