Uh-oh! SOLVED.

[Valkorado]

It was the Smart Switch after all!  Rob was right, the OEM plugs were under the fairing, and very tucked away and hidden.  IMHO -- at least if you're running LED bulbs -- the Switch is unnecessary.  This one was filled  with silicone all around the  relays in an attempt to waterproof it.  It obviously didn't work.  I haven't dissected them yet.

I'll try to remember to post pics tomorrow.  I'm guessing  the corrosion had already begun and washing the bike the other  day was the last straw.

Thanks very much all for your help with this wild goose chase!

Now back to the Silver Bullet.  

Glad you got it figured out. It always seems worse when you are knee deep in it.  

Knee deep without a clue!  But, I'm learning more all the time!!!

[gordonv]

Sorry I wasn't here for the trip, but glad this all got posted and a solution found (back to OEM).

I've bookmarked this one, as there is everything there you would ever need for knowing how the IS lighting works. After reading through all the post, it was all there. The OEM relays and where to find them, the stock wires found, the diagram of the wiring and how to modify it. It was all good. Even to the point of why bother on an IS? Heavier gauge wire, for brighter head light, but why with an LED which is brighter (should be) anyways?

The Smart Switch relays are mini's and put inline. I tried to find them in the past, thinking of other projects, and had no luck finding them. A nicely loomed wire harness, plug-n-play, but is of more value for the other model Valks, to remove the higher voltage going through the starter button, that the IS model doesn't have, since it uses build in power relays instead.

[blackvalkyrie]

So happy you got it figured out!!  :cooldude:i KNOW ALL ABOUT ELECTRICAL FRUSTRATION.. gonna have that real soon dealing with my alternator...

It was the Smart Switch after all!  Rob was right, the OEM plugs were under the fairing, and very tucked away and hidden.  IMHO -- at least if you're running LED bulbs -- the Switch is unnecessary.  This one was filled  with silicone all around the  relays in an attempt to waterproof it.  It obviously didn't work.  I haven't dissected them yet.

I'll try to remember to post pics tomorrow.  I'm guessing  the corrosion had already begun and washing the bike the other  day was the last straw.

Thanks very much all for your help with this wild goose chase!

Now back to the Silver Bullet.  

[Valkorado]

So happy you got it figured out!!  :cooldude:i KNOW ALL ABOUT ELECTRICAL FRUSTRATION.. gonna have that real soon dealing with my alternator...

It was the Smart Switch after all!  Rob was right, the OEM plugs were under the fairing, and very tucked away and hidden.  IMHO -- at least if you're running LED bulbs -- the Switch is unnecessary.  This one was filled  with silicone all around the  relays in an attempt to waterproof it.  It obviously didn't work.  I haven't dissected them yet.

I'll try to remember to post pics tomorrow.  I'm guessing  the corrosion had already begun and washing the bike the other  day was the last straw.

Thanks very much all for your help with this wild goose chase!

Now back to the Silver Bullet.  

Just swapped out an alternator on the Bullet early this season.  Went better than expected, with minimal cursing -- which is not par for the course for me.  I think what made it easier was taking my time and  using a mechanic's pry bar.  

Took the gamble and found a used one on eBay for $60 that it's putting out 14.4 v on idle.

Trick for me was making sure everything was aligned, then using one of my pry bars to push it in from behind.  I imagine a piece of 1x4 could maybe be used in a pinch.  Just make sure your pushing it from the center and straight, not at an angle.  

I also discovered inserting the replacement alt with front facing down outward  (rear held higher and angled up toward battery box) got it in position easier.  YMMV.  I did not remove the center panel per the service manual.  I think that would only make the job more difficult getting that off and back on.

If there is too much resistance check that the alternator splines are aligned directly over the gaps between the rubber bushings before trying to force it or you can break the bushings apart.

If it pisses you of really bad walk away for 15 minutes and try again.  Again, don't force it, if it's not going on it's probably just not aligned properly.

[Jess from VA]

Water is generally not optimal for electrical.

But picture this.  I washed my bike yesterday and got water on my Kuryakyn led volt meter (mounted on the inside of the faring), which has been intermittently giving me yellow and not green when riding for a year. (pretty sure because of a poor connection)  My alternator is fine, and battery good.

Not only did it get wet, I knocked the cover off.  So I popped the cover back on (no glue), and low and behold, the damn thing is back to working correctly again.  For now.

Water.... it's like witchcraft.  

But I must say, when using a hose with my bikes, all I do is use fine mist for all work except for blasting the wheels and inside the fenders.