Rear Rotor

[Malkozaine]

So I have a buddy gonna help me with building a Valk Lift out of wood.  I asked this in the last thread but figured it would be easier to get answers here.  While looking for a rear rotor for my 99 Interstate I've noticed that ebay doesn't show a bunch of options for the Interstate.  Does it use a different type or can a normal Valkyrie rotor work?  I also have found these and wondered if these are the correct sizes.  Just trying to get an idea of what to buy:

1.) https://tinyurl.com/5a76kwny
2.) https://tinyurl.com/j2yfk4z6
3.) https://tinyurl.com/5csfsv55
4.) https://tinyurl.com/ftvjjyn2

I have also come across this type also thus why I ask what works:

https://tinyurl.com/46n9wpx4

Thanks for the helps guys.  This will help me figure out what I should get for the bike.

[Valker]

The only important difference in rear wheels is the two models. One model is “1J” and “2J”. I think all Interstates came with “2J”. The difference is the mounting. “1J” wheels mount with bolts that look like regular bolts that hold something and sit “humped” on top of the rotor when tightened and “2J” rotors with with the mounting bolts flush, or countersunk, in the rotor. The rotor and mounting bolts must match.

[Chrisj CMA]

The only important difference in rear wheels is the two models. One model is “1J” and “2J”. I think all Interstates came with “2J”. The difference is the mounting. “1J” wheels mount with bolts that look like regular bolts that hold something and sit “humped” on top of the rotor when tightened and “2J” rotors with with the mounting bolts flush, or countersunk, in the rotor. The rotor and mounting bolts must match.

Rotor with its mounting bolts must match the wheel too. You cannot put an early rotor with capped bolts on an IS wheel if it had the later rotor with countersunk bolts originally

[Bagger John - #3785]

The only important difference in rear wheels is the two models. One model is “1J” and “2J”. I think all Interstates came with “2J”. The difference is the mounting. “1J” wheels mount with bolts that look like regular bolts that hold something and sit “humped” on top of the rotor when tightened and “2J” rotors with with the mounting bolts flush, or countersunk, in the rotor. The rotor and mounting bolts must match.

Not true.

See the thread which Pancho started (and I replied to) regarding wheel identification stampings. I have 1J wheels which came off an '00 I/S. Granted, these use 47mm OD wheel bearings (instead of the 42mm parts which the '97s came with).

I think the 1J-2J bit has to do more with the plant at which they were fabricated than it does the manufacture date of the wheels, or on the series of bikes they were used.

[Malkozaine]

So looking at my rear rotor, I have the countersunk version.  So does that limit me to what I can use or can I use any type?

[Bighead]

My question would be why a rear rotor is needed? In my experience 2 sets of fronts before a rear is needed. Same with brake pads. Or have I been doing it wrong all these years using 80% front brake and 20% rear? Seems logical that two brakes ie front has twice the stopping  power as a single rear.

[Malkozaine]

My question would be why a rear rotor is needed? In my experience 2 sets of fronts before a rear is needed. Same with brake pads. Or have I been doing it wrong all these years using 80% front brake and 20% rear? Seems logical that two brakes ie front has twice the stopping  power as a single rear.

If you are asking why we need a rear rotor at all, maybe its a legal thing?  I mean it does help with stopping though you are right the front do way more work.  I use the rear to reduce speed more the stopping myself.  As for why I need a new rear, that is do to mine being damaged and needing to be replaced.  Its still usable but needs replacing.

[Bighead]

Understood just a question. I rarely use the rear brake. I use the fronts and downshifting to do most of the work.

[Malkozaine]

Understood just a question. I rarely use the rear brake. I use the fronts and downshifting to do most of the work.

Not a problem.  Hell I have a Hybrid car and use the regen braking to do most of my braking work on my car.  According to my mechanic, I still have the first set of brakes on my car cause of that.  lol

[pancho]

So looking at my rear rotor, I have the countersunk version.  So does that limit me to what I can use or can I use any type?

If your wheel has the rotor with the countersunk bolts, that is the only type rotor that will work with that wheel. The other type rotor will bolt on, but have alignment problems with the caliper.

[Chrisj CMA]

Understood just a question. I rarely use the rear brake. I use the fronts and downshifting to do most of the work.

The way I see it. Rear brake pads are cheaper and easier to change than clutch disks. Just sayin

[Malkozaine]

So looking at my rear rotor, I have the countersunk version.  So does that limit me to what I can use or can I use any type?

If your wheel has the rotor with the countersunk bolts, that is the only type rotor that will work with that wheel. The other type rotor will bolt on, but have alignment problems with the caliper.

Alignment Issues?

[Jims99]

What if you have some extra rims with no rotors, how would you know what rotors to use? I bought some extras to polish up for next tire change. How will I know if my rotors will be the right ones?

[Chrisj CMA]

What if you have some extra rims with no rotors, how would you know what rotors to use? I bought some extras to polish up for next tire change. How will I know if my rotors will be the right ones?

Go back up and read valkers post. It’s marked on the hub which one it is.

[Malkozaine]

So looking at my rear rotor, I have the countersunk version.  So does that limit me to what I can use or can I use any type?

If your wheel has the rotor with the countersunk bolts, that is the only type rotor that will work with that wheel. The other type rotor will bolt on, but have alignment problems with the caliper.

Alignment Issues?

I know this might sound silly.....but what type of alignment issues?

[Chrisj CMA]

So looking at my rear rotor, I have the countersunk version.  So does that limit me to what I can use or can I use any type?

If your wheel has the rotor with the countersunk bolts, that is the only type rotor that will work with that wheel. The other type rotor will bolt on, but have alignment problems with the caliper.

Alignment Issues?

I know this might sound silly.....but what type of alignment issues?

The hub is taller in the older wheel because the center of the disk is thinner. They cut back the hub to fit a thicker disk. Mismatch it either way and the disk will grind on one side of the caliper or the other but it won’t line up in the center of the caliper.

[pancho]

So looking at my rear rotor, I have the countersunk version.  So does that limit me to what I can use or can I use any type?

If your wheel has the rotor with the countersunk bolts, that is the only type rotor that will work with that wheel. The other type rotor will bolt on, but have alignment problems with the caliper.

Alignment Issues?

I know this might sound silly.....but what type of alignment issues?

OK, heres what I know. I have six Valk wheels total with four rear wheels for CT, MC tire spare etc.



I have tried to figure this out for quite awhile, I used to think it was one type of rotor was for a 1J wheel and the other for a 2J wheel. I don't believe this is the case anymore. Here is a recessed bolt rotor on a wheel.



and the appearance of the lip on the wheel, which is how all three of the wheels that are not on my bike appear.



The wheel and rotor I have installed on my bike right now, has rotor bolts that are not recessed, but I cannot see if the lip on the wheel is wider, and I'm not sure I looked last time I changed from the CT.



The bottom line is, I don't have a straight answer, but the next time I change the rear wheel and tire, I will collect more information from the wheel that is on the bike now for differences from the others. I do remember an instance awhile back when changing wheels where I could not get the caliper bracket to mount and align, and changed the style of rotor and it slipped in perfectly....??  This is all empirical data and have never gotten to the bottom of it,, not even sure if the different rotors align differently. What I can tell you, is that if you mount a wheel and rotor and cannot get the caliper and bracket to assemble properly, you probably need the other style rotor for that wheel.


Then on the other hand, I see rotors being sold that claim they fit any year Valkyrie, so maybe there is nothing to this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254220723218?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAAAkHm6GrtzPA6Lb%2BtoEzM95qGvnUlna5buDzpu1PmtlrepiUP%2BWZL%2FekScCh%2Bnz0WYd5i3Qy0rVnvL24AMTtW6QtEgsvkNr3CGBg5lXxx8kojYq0EllrVsUNyEMIqy3A2Jph3x74fSfp88LAA5d3TYwIB8Le3Ty4POPJGULNiZxkoy57ivGuFcMW0ETXHMqUzSjw%3D%3D&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=254220723218&targetid=1317625197007&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9026135&poi=&campaignid=12519035890&mkgroupid=120624486605&rlsatarget=aud-412677883135:pla-1317625197007&abcId=9300518&merchantid=101650550&gclid=CjwKCAjw_JuGBhBkEiwA1xmbRU_AoXbUr9lsh-jKXLYfdXZFokRf42ZRwvtLvhGWQqObsy_54L00sxoCwdkQAvD_BwE

[Chrisj CMA]

The bottom line is, I don't have a straight answer

If you are confused, why post in this this thread that can be a bit confusing to some already. 

Here's the bottom line.  there are two kinds of rotors the older ones from standards and tourers are thinner in the the center.  they need the earlier wheels with slightly taller/longer hubs. Later models and interstates have rotors with a thicker center and use countersunk bolts.  These need the newer wheels with the shorter hubs.  don't switchy swap them or it wont work right.

[Malkozaine]

The bottom line is, I don't have a straight answer

If you are confused, why post in this this thread that can be a bit confusing to some already. 

Here's the bottom line.  there are two kinds of rotors the older ones from standards and tourers are thinner in the the center.  they need the earlier wheels with slightly taller/longer hubs. Later models and interstates have rotors with a thicker center and use countersunk bolts.  These need the newer wheels with the shorter hubs.  don't switchy swap them or it wont work right.

So then with the after market rotors.....do the have to be countersunk then?  I have seen a bunch of rotors on eBay that aren't countersunk but say they can work on my bike.  Any recommendations on what I should get new or used?

[Malkozaine]

Or better yet, what other bikes share the same countersunk rotor so I can look at more options?

[gordonv]

I have seen a bunch of rotors on eBay that aren't countersunk but say they can work on my bike.  Any recommendations on what I should get new or used?

You will counter a lot of items on ebay/amazon/etc, that say they will fit all models, or the model you're looking for, but they don't. In the case of the Valkyrie, you need to learn what parts are different then others. The online parts store, with the fiche work real well in finding and then searching which model and years it fits.


Here is something I have saved from other posts;

This is the information I have gathered over the years. I believe it to be accurate.

1997 Valkyrie front wheels use different wheel bearings than later wheels. It will have a ‘1J’ on the hub next to the part number.
1998 to 2003 Valkyrie front wheels all use the same wheel bearings and will have a ‘2J’ on the hub.
All front Valkyrie wheels can use the same brake rotor.

1997 to 1999 Valkyrie Standard and Tourer rear wheels have a ‘1J’ on the hub on the rotor side. They use the ‘early’ rear brake rotor.

2000-2003 Valkyrie Standard and Tourer rear wheels, and ALL Interstates  have a ‘2J’ on the hub on the rotor side. They use the later rotor.

For the rear wheel, as long as you use the early style rotor with a ‘1J’ wheel, or a later style rotor with the ‘2J’ wheel it will work.

Because of the Interstate introduction in 1999, 1999 was probably a transition year for Standards and Tourers.  Early Standards and Tourers  might have a 1J, Later 99 Standards and Tourers could have a 2J wheel as Honda used up the remaining supply of 1J wheels.
 
Just be aware that at some point in the bikes life, someone might have swapped wheels.
For example, my 1998 Tourer (which came with a 1J wheel, now has a 2000 Interstate rear wheel (2J), thanks Chrisj CMA. I had to use the (later style) rotor that was made for the 2J wheel.

[Malkozaine]

I have seen a bunch of rotors on eBay that aren't countersunk but say they can work on my bike.  Any recommendations on what I should get new or used?

You will counter a lot of items on ebay/amazon/etc, that say they will fit all models, or the model you're looking for, but they don't. In the case of the Valkyrie, you need to learn what parts are different then others. The online parts store, with the fiche work real well in finding and then searching which model and years it fits.


Here is something I have saved from other posts;

This is the information I have gathered over the years. I believe it to be accurate.

1997 Valkyrie front wheels use different wheel bearings than later wheels. It will have a ‘1J’ on the hub next to the part number.
1998 to 2003 Valkyrie front wheels all use the same wheel bearings and will have a ‘2J’ on the hub.
All front Valkyrie wheels can use the same brake rotor.

1997 to 1999 Valkyrie Standard and Tourer rear wheels have a ‘1J’ on the hub on the rotor side. They use the ‘early’ rear brake rotor.

2000-2003 Valkyrie Standard and Tourer rear wheels, and ALL Interstates  have a ‘2J’ on the hub on the rotor side. They use the later rotor.

For the rear wheel, as long as you use the early style rotor with a ‘1J’ wheel, or a later style rotor with the ‘2J’ wheel it will work.

Because of the Interstate introduction in 1999, 1999 was probably a transition year for Standards and Tourers.  Early Standards and Tourers  might have a 1J, Later 99 Standards and Tourers could have a 2J wheel as Honda used up the remaining supply of 1J wheels.
 
Just be aware that at some point in the bikes life, someone might have swapped wheels.
For example, my 1998 Tourer (which came with a 1J wheel, now has a 2000 Interstate rear wheel (2J), thanks Chrisj CMA. I had to use the (later style) rotor that was made for the 2J wheel.

I know there are parts that are version specific.  That's why I am trying to find out what rotor I need since as you said online dealers aren't helpful always.  You do make a point on the wheel type....when I get home I'll take a look at the bike to see if it's J1 or J2 and then report back.

[RonW]

So then with the after market rotors.....do they have to be countersunk then?  I have seen a bunch of rotors on eBay that aren't countersunk but say they can work on my bike.

non-oem rotors don't have to be countersunk if the inner diameter or inner band isn't thicken as the later year Valk rotors were thicken. The thicker section required the counter sink. Both 1J and 2J bolts are 8mm x *24mm long*.  And of course if the vendor test fitted their after market rotors.

[Malkozaine]

So then with the after market rotors.....do they have to be countersunk then?  I have seen a bunch of rotors on eBay that aren't countersunk but say they can work on my bike.

Do you have any examples of ones I might be able to get on eBay?

non-oem rotors don't have to be countersunk if the inner diameter or inner band isn't thicken as the later year Valk rotors were thicken. The thicker section required the counter sink. Both 1J and 2J bolts are 8mm x *24mm long*.  And of course if the vendor test fitted their after market rotors.

[RonW]

I only buy oem rotors

[Chrisj CMA]

I have seen a bunch of rotors on eBay that aren't countersunk but say they can work on my bike.  Any recommendations on what I should get new or used?

You will counter a lot of items on ebay/amazon/etc, that say they will fit all models, or the model you're looking for, but they don't. In the case of the Valkyrie, you need to learn what parts are different then others. The online parts store, with the fiche work real well in finding and then searching which model and years it fits.


Here is something I have saved from other posts;

This is the information I have gathered over the years. I believe it to be accurate.

1997 Valkyrie front wheels use different wheel bearings than later wheels. It will have a ‘1J’ on the hub next to the part number.
1998 to 2003 Valkyrie front wheels all use the same wheel bearings and will have a ‘2J’ on the hub.
All front Valkyrie wheels can use the same brake rotor.

1997 to 1999 Valkyrie Standard and Tourer rear wheels have a ‘1J’ on the hub on the rotor side. They use the ‘early’ rear brake rotor.

2000-2003 Valkyrie Standard and Tourer rear wheels, and ALL Interstates  have a ‘2J’ on the hub on the rotor side. They use the later rotor.

For the rear wheel, as long as you use the early style rotor with a ‘1J’ wheel, or a later style rotor with the ‘2J’ wheel it will work.

Because of the Interstate introduction in 1999, 1999 was probably a transition year for Standards and Tourers.  Early Standards and Tourers  might have a 1J, Later 99 Standards and Tourers could have a 2J wheel as Honda used up the remaining supply of 1J wheels.
 
Just be aware that at some point in the bikes life, someone might have swapped wheels.
For example, my 1998 Tourer (which came with a 1J wheel, now has a 2000 Interstate rear wheel (2J), thanks Chrisj CMA. I had to use the (later style) rotor that was made for the 2J wheel.

I still talk about that wheel. It was unbelievably pretty for a used wheel. Glad it’s still serving you well

[pancho]

The bottom line is, I don't have a straight answer

If you are confused, why post in this this thread that can be a bit confusing to some already.  

Here's the bottom line.  there are two kinds of rotors the older ones from standards and tourers are thinner in the the center.  they need the earlier wheels with slightly taller/longer hubs. Later models and interstates have rotors with a thicker center and use countersunk bolts.  These need the newer wheels with the shorter hubs.  don't switchy swap them or it wont work right.

It's all about sharing information Jeff.    

This post shows that what most believe about 1J vs. 2J wheels is probably not true.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,116211.msg1185251.html#msg1185251

[Malkozaine]

I have seen a bunch of rotors on eBay that aren't countersunk but say they can work on my bike.  Any recommendations on what I should get new or used?

You will counter a lot of items on ebay/amazon/etc, that say they will fit all models, or the model you're looking for, but they don't. In the case of the Valkyrie, you need to learn what parts are different then others. The online parts store, with the fiche work real well in finding and then searching which model and years it fits.


Here is something I have saved from other posts;

This is the information I have gathered over the years. I believe it to be accurate.

1997 Valkyrie front wheels use different wheel bearings than later wheels. It will have a ‘1J’ on the hub next to the part number.
1998 to 2003 Valkyrie front wheels all use the same wheel bearings and will have a ‘2J’ on the hub.
All front Valkyrie wheels can use the same brake rotor.

1997 to 1999 Valkyrie Standard and Tourer rear wheels have a ‘1J’ on the hub on the rotor side. They use the ‘early’ rear brake rotor.

2000-2003 Valkyrie Standard and Tourer rear wheels, and ALL Interstates  have a ‘2J’ on the hub on the rotor side. They use the later rotor.

For the rear wheel, as long as you use the early style rotor with a ‘1J’ wheel, or a later style rotor with the ‘2J’ wheel it will work.

Because of the Interstate introduction in 1999, 1999 was probably a transition year for Standards and Tourers.  Early Standards and Tourers  might have a 1J, Later 99 Standards and Tourers could have a 2J wheel as Honda used up the remaining supply of 1J wheels.
 
Just be aware that at some point in the bikes life, someone might have swapped wheels.
For example, my 1998 Tourer (which came with a 1J wheel, now has a 2000 Interstate rear wheel (2J), thanks Chrisj CMA. I had to use the (later style) rotor that was made for the 2J wheel.

Ok so looking at my wheel I seem to have a 2J.

https://i.imgur.com/M4w4ybs.jpg

So any good options for the later style rotors?  What good new or used should I go for.

I'm sorry I sound like a broken record.....I just want to make sure I get the right thing the first time.  I am super greatful for everyone's help.

[Bagger John - #3785]

This is the information I have gathered over the years. I believe it to be accurate.

1997 Valkyrie front wheels use different wheel bearings than later wheels. It will have a ‘1J’ on the hub next to the part number.
1998 to 2003 Valkyrie front wheels all use the same wheel bearings and will have a ‘2J’ on the hub.
All front Valkyrie wheels can use the same brake rotor.

1997 to 1999 Valkyrie Standard and Tourer rear wheels have a ‘1J’ on the hub on the rotor side. They use the ‘early’ rear brake rotor.

2000-2003 Valkyrie Standard and Tourer rear wheels, and ALL Interstates  have a ‘2J’ on the hub on the rotor side. They use the later rotor.

The bolded part is not true.

I have a 1J front wheel which came off an '00 I/S (verified by the disassembler) whose bearing pockets measure 47mm - rather than 42mm, which was used on the '97 front wheel.

I'll call said salvage yard and see if they still have the rear wheel which came with the bike and get some information from them...but...it appears the whole 1J-2J thing may be a code for the facility at which a wheel was made - and not the series of bike it was installed on.

[Malkozaine]

Ok so I am finally looking to by the rotors, I have a 2J rear tire.  I just need to know if either on of these will work and what one might be the best:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Brake-Disc-Rotor-for-Honda-Goldwing-Valkyrie-GL1500-SE-Interstate-Tourer-/143477239340?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Brake-Disc-Rotor-FOR-HONDA-GL1500-Goldwing-A-SE-Interstate-GL-1500-Valkyrie-/142170788121?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

[Chrisj CMA]

Ok so I am finally looking to by the rotors, I have a 2J rear tire.  I just need to know if either on of these will work and what one might be the best:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Brake-Disc-Rotor-for-Honda-Goldwing-Valkyrie-GL1500-SE-Interstate-Tourer-/143477239340?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Brake-Disc-Rotor-FOR-HONDA-GL1500-Goldwing-A-SE-Interstate-GL-1500-Valkyrie-/142170788121?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Neither. Stick with OEM and you need the one that is full thickness in the center with countersunk bolts

[Malkozaine]

Ok so I am finally looking to by the rotors, I have a 2J rear tire.  I just need to know if either on of these will work and what one might be the best:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Brake-Disc-Rotor-for-Honda-Goldwing-Valkyrie-GL1500-SE-Interstate-Tourer-/143477239340?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Brake-Disc-Rotor-FOR-HONDA-GL1500-Goldwing-A-SE-Interstate-GL-1500-Valkyrie-/142170788121?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Neither. Stick with OEM and you need the one that is full thickness in the center with countersunk bolts

Even that second one won't work....looks like the bolts would be countersunk

Also what about this one?  According to the part number in the notes it should be able to replace mine:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Brake-Disc-Rotor-For-HONDA-GL-1500-Goldwing-Valkyrie-VTX1800-43251-MCH-003-/174614247202?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

[Chrisj CMA]

Ok so I am finally looking to by the rotors, I have a 2J rear tire.  I just need to know if either on of these will work and what one might be the best:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Brake-Disc-Rotor-for-Honda-Goldwing-Valkyrie-GL1500-SE-Interstate-Tourer-/143477239340?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Brake-Disc-Rotor-FOR-HONDA-GL1500-Goldwing-A-SE-Interstate-GL-1500-Valkyrie-/142170788121?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Neither. Stick with OEM and you need the one that is full thickness in the center with countersunk bolts

Even that second one won't work....looks like the bolts would be countersunk

Also what about this one?  According to the part number in the notes it should be able to replace mine:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Brake-Disc-Rotor-For-HONDA-GL-1500-Goldwing-Valkyrie-VTX1800-43251-MCH-003-/174614247202?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

You asked for advice. My advice is to stick with OEM. Used from EBay or pinwall or our classified or new through HDL if they are still available. I have OEM spares for all my wheels. They weren’t that expensive