John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15200
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« on: July 02, 2021, 09:21:02 PM » |
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Someone makes them but can't remember who and also what they're called. You bolt them on our battery post and it's made longer with additional attachment points. Keeps you from having a bunch of wires attached to the single cable attachment bolt. I'm probably not describing it very well. I can make one but I know they're made commercially, just can't recall the name of the item.
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Valkorado
Member
Posts: 10491
VRCC DS 0242
Gunnison, Colorado (7,703') Here there be twisties.
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« Reply #1 on: July 02, 2021, 10:22:53 PM » |
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« Last Edit: July 02, 2021, 10:24:53 PM by Valkorado »
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Have you ever noticed when you're feeling really good, there's always a pigeon that'll come sh!t on your hood? - John Prine 97 Tourer "Silver Bullet" 01 Interstate "Ruby"  |
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Jersey
Member
Posts: 545
VRCC #37540
Southern Maryland
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« Reply #3 on: July 03, 2021, 06:20:35 AM » |
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Wouldn’t a fuse block work better and be safer ?
Agree with this recommendation. Not too much room around the posts for an adapter, plus the convenience and safety of a fuse block might be a better approach. |
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Jersey
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15200
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #4 on: July 03, 2021, 07:59:01 AM » |
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Wouldn’t a fuse block work better and be safer ?
I have a fuse block which is key actuated. I'm installing a double USB port in the dash of the trike and wanted it to be available without the key on. At $40 a pop I'm sure I can make one for substantially less.  |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #5 on: July 03, 2021, 08:52:31 AM » |
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Wouldn’t a fuse block work better and be safer ?
I have a fuse block which is key actuated. I'm installing a double USB port in the dash of the trike and wanted it to be available without the key on. At $40 a pop I'm sure I can make one for substantially less. Doesn’t your fuse block have the capability of both keyed on junctions and also always hot junctions ? |
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15200
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #6 on: July 03, 2021, 10:04:40 AM » |
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Wouldn’t a fuse block work better and be safer ?
I have a fuse block which is key actuated. I'm installing a double USB port in the dash of the trike and wanted it to be available without the key on. At $40 a pop I'm sure I can make one for substantially less. Doesn’t your fuse block have the capability of both keyed on junctions and also always hot junctions ? Don't recall...been a while so will have to check but I would think so. It's key actuated via a relay so probably not. |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #7 on: July 03, 2021, 10:19:58 AM » |
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Wouldn’t a fuse block work better and be safer ?
I have a fuse block which is key actuated. I'm installing a double USB port in the dash of the trike and wanted it to be available without the key on. At $40 a pop I'm sure I can make one for substantially less. Doesn’t your fuse block have the capability of both keyed on junctions and also always hot junctions ? Don't recall...been a while so will have to check but I would think so. It's key actuated via a relay so probably not. Mine (and I think most) have both. |
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luftkoph
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« Reply #8 on: July 03, 2021, 04:28:56 PM » |
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My understanding is most of those USB ports always draw power even when nothing is plugged in
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Some day never comes
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Madmike
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« Reply #9 on: July 03, 2021, 09:24:20 PM » |
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Wouldn’t a fuse block work better and be safer ?
I have a fuse block which is key actuated. I'm installing a double USB port in the dash of the trike and wanted it to be available without the key on. At $40 a pop I'm sure I can make one for substantially less. Doesn’t your fuse block have the capability of both keyed on junctions and also always hot junctions ? Don't recall...been a while so will have to check but I would think so. It's key actuated via a relay so probably not. Mine (and I think most) have both. if you are using a 5 pin relay one load pin is NO the other is NC, but they switch with the control power so the power will be either with or without key not constant. |
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Mooskee
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« Reply #10 on: July 04, 2021, 10:18:57 AM » |
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John, maybe you can do something like this. My power distribution box is hot all the time. The 12VDC outlet with USB is wired to it, but has an built in on/off switch so it doesn't drain the battery with the engine off. I have a relay and separate power for the Danmark and just pick up the ground on here. The Denmark is tied to the coil power, so it comes on with the key and off with kill switch circuit. Relays for voltmeter and fuel gauge, and horn. The clock in the gage cluster is always on of course.  |
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-mike-
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« Reply #11 on: July 04, 2021, 12:30:38 PM » |
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My understanding is most of those USB ports always draw power even when nothing is plugged in
That's why some ports have an extra switch. See the USB port of my cradle:  I don't need it powered permanently, though. Connected on acc circuit. -mike- |
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luftkoph
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« Reply #12 on: July 05, 2021, 05:03:11 AM » |
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My understanding is most of those USB ports always draw power even when nothing is plugged in
That's why some ports have an extra switch. See the USB port of my cradle: I don't need it powered permanently, though. Connected on acc circuit. -mike-  |
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Some day never comes
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Bagger John - #3785
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« Reply #13 on: July 05, 2021, 06:19:34 AM » |
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I run Fuze Blocks on both of my Concours 14s. They have always-on/key-on selectable routing for each of their 6 circuits. A homemade version is installed on both Valkyries but I'm going to switch those out for the Eager Beaver PC-8.
Take the time and do it right...and never worry about electrical gremlins on the road.
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15200
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #14 on: July 05, 2021, 10:50:36 AM » |
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I run Fuze Blocks on both of my Concours 14s. They have always-on/key-on selectable routing for each of their 6 circuits. A homemade version is installed on both Valkyries but I'm going to switch those out for the Eager Beaver PC-8.
Take the time and do it right...and never worry about electrical gremlins on the road.
John, that's always my approach. I try to make it look like a factory installation, don't always succeed but sure reduces the possibility of an electrical issue. Crimped connections are a no-no unless an emergency repair on the road...it will get soldered ASAP. I think my best bet is to not have the USB ports hot all the time, shouldn't need them unless on the move anyway. In that case, I'll simply hook it up to my fuse block which is relay triggered via the accessory line with power direct from the battery. |
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RonW
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« Reply #15 on: July 05, 2021, 11:42:28 AM » |
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I also use to think solder was the only way to go. However, this is how my crimps are today using a ratchet crimper. I still add a spot of solder if possible. Ratchet crimpers have dropped in price, but I did return an inexpensive ratchet crimper because it didn't function properly. My current kit came with a speedy wire stripper and a zippered case.   |
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« Last Edit: July 05, 2021, 01:33:58 PM by RonW »
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
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Bagger John - #3785
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« Reply #16 on: July 05, 2021, 01:33:09 PM » |
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With soldering, you run the risk of work-hardening the wires at the connector-to-wire interface unless you mechanically reinforce the joint. My weapon of choice for this is shrink wrap of the type Radio Shack used to sell; the particular formulation was both waterproof and rigid. Some of my home-brewed accessory harnesses which used that stuff on the terminals are still in service decades after I constructed them with nary a hiccup.
An Amp or Tyco brand crimper and terminal-specific dies can get into absolutely $TUPID money, depending on the terminal type and size you're needing to crimp. An example: One of the amateur-radio equipment manufacturers whose products I work with uses an off-beat circular connector to interface their radio gear to a PC via RS-232 cabling. The connectors and 12 pins (both male and female sides of the connection) are probably $10 total but the tool used to crimp them retails for (sit down) $1900.
Yeah, that isn't happening.
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15200
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #17 on: July 05, 2021, 03:13:12 PM » |
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I also use to think solder was the only way to go. However, this is how my crimps are today using a ratchet crimper. I still add a spot of solder if possible. Ratchet crimpers have dropped in price, but I did return an inexpensive ratchet crimper because it didn't function properly. My current kit came with a speedy wire stripper and a zippered case. Ron, I have tons of that type of connector that requires a special crimper. That's not the type of crimped on connector I talking about. I have a load of bullet connectors along with single, double, & triple females for them, plus the slip on little plastic insulators for every size of connector. I also have a good collection of multi-pin connectors that use crimped on male/femail pins in them. Everything from 2 pin to 9 pin & a goodly supply of differents size heat shrink, most of which has a glue lining. |
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