Hydraulic lift jack UK

[Knapdog]

Can anyone recommend a quality hydraulic lift Jack that I can purchase in the UK, suitable for the Valkyrie, so as to avoid Customs Duty?
I'm always dubious when they don't state the country of manufacture as I tend to avoid such items that are specifically "Made in China", due to quality control issues.

[-mike-]

Without a specific adapter you can't use a standard lift.

If I'd were you I'd bite the bullet and get this adapter plate, even with import fees to pay. Flawless design, German quality.
Not sure if this adapter does interfere with your center stand, so I'd ask Ruth and Peter, the shop owners, before purchase. Nice fellows they are for sure.

https://www.valkyrieparts.de/epages/63631381.mobile/en_GB/?ViewObjectPath=%2FShops%2F63631381%2FProducts%2F%2299.09%20KV1%22

 You can use then any local available heavy duty motorcycle ( ... We handle a fat girl, don't we?) hydraulic lift system like this one:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122737434646

I do use this exact setup with great success.

To cut down the price even more, I have some adapter plate plans  I can send you, if you are capable of cutting and welding steel.
Send me your E-mail address in a p.m. to get them.
Some wooden adapter plans you also may find here in shop talk. Someone else may give you a link. I've seen it here. somewhere....

Best,
-mike-

[Knapdog]

Without a specific adapter you can't use a standard lift.

If I'd were you I'd bite the bullet and get this adapter plate, even with import fees to pay. Flawless design, German quality.
Not sure if this adapter does interfere with your center stand, so I'd ask Ruth and Peter, the shop owners, before purchase. Nice fellows they are for sure.

https://www.valkyrieparts.de/epages/63631381.mobile/en_GB/?ViewObjectPath=%2FShops%2F63631381%2FProducts%2F%2299.09%20KV1%22

 You can use then any local available heavy duty motorcycle ( ... We handle a fat girl, don't we?) hydraulic lift system like this one:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122737434646

I do use this exact setup with great success.

To cut down the price even more, I have some adapter plate plans  I can send you, if you are capable of cutting and welding steel.
Send me your E-mail address in a p.m. to get them.
Some wooden adapter plans you also may find here in shop talk. Someone else may give you a link. I've seen it here. somewhere....

Best,
-mike-

Hi Mike,
The adapter looks great quality though I'm confident of copying the "wooden" ideas in Shoptalk, thanks.
Reading the reports on that SwitZer hydraulic jack, I'm a little bit worried about quite a few reports of the bike dropping quite quickly when using the release foot pedal. Do you find it a problem?
Thanks again for replying.

[steveB (VRCC UK)]

Try MachineMart's CML5. Its probably made in China but I've been using mine since 1998 with no issues on my own and 'customers" Valks. There is a branch in Cardiff so no postage problems. Although you can lift without the adapter the Valk goes wobbly if you take a wheel out.

[-mike-]

Hi Mike,
The adapter looks great quality though I'm confident of copying the "wooden" ideas in Shoptalk, thanks.
Reading the reports on that SwitZer hydraulic jack, I'm a little bit worried about quite a few reports of the bike dropping quite quickly when using the release foot pedal. Do you find it a problem?
Thanks again for replying.

No fast drop issue with mine. Ok. If you stomp on the pedal like a Rockstar drummer you may get the Fat Lady laid down faster than intended...   
Being gentle does help there, too....

Good luck with any choice! I'm sure you'll get it right!

-mike-

[Knapdog]

Try MachineMart's CML5. Its probably made in China but I've been using mine since 1998 with no issues on my own and 'customers" Valks. There is a branch in Cardiff so no postage problems. Although you can lift without the adapter the Valk goes wobbly if you take a wheel out.

After weighing up everyone's help I actually went, five minutes previously, to the CML5.
Machine Mart is a reputable business and I'll be picking it up in five days. I can start making the adapter.

[Jess from VA]

Here's the home made list of wood adapters that work fine.

I made the last one on this list (and using it 14 years for two Valks, no trouble).  You don't need 2 X 4 stock for the base (which just get sandwiched between the jack and crankcase.  One by stock is all that is necessary, and is easier to slide over the jack and under the bike (but you may still need to shim the kickstand, to get the bike more level, getting it all in place before jacking).

http://www.herberts.org/wayne/valk/lowtechlift.htm

[Knapdog]

Here's the home made list of wood adapters that work fine.

I made the last one on this list (and using it 14 years for two Valks, no trouble).  You don't need 2 X 4 stock for the base (which just get sandwiched between the jack and crankcase.  One by stock is all that is necessary, and is easier to slide over the jack and under the bike (but you may still need to shim the kickstand, to get the bike more level, getting it all in place before jacking).

http://www.herberts.org/wayne/valk/lowtechlift.htm

Thanks for your help

[f-Stop]

Here's what I use...

https://youtu.be/aLzW1qkJOuU

Simple plans...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0K9YtHNTx89cWxmNlk4clhscWt5bTFVSERWLUFjVGNJdWZn/view?usp=sharing&resourcekey=0-a0FUgQI1JqU0jBAUy7dnFw

 

[Knapdog]

Well I collected my jack today and I'm hoping we have many happy hours together ❤.



I followed the plans for the lift adapter but found the 2 x 4 base too thick to get it underneath the bike so replaced it with a thinner piece and even then it was a bit of a tight fit.
I was very apprehensive with my first trial lift as I was worried that the adapter was pressing against something that could be easily damaged.
Once I'm confident with the exact position I might put a guide rail underneath the adapter to rest against the arm of the jack.





Anyone for cricket?

[old2soon]

    Seeing as you've already purchased a jack I'll relate an issue with the Harbor Freight jack-china-the bright yellow one I've had for awhile now. The release pedal works azz backwards. You tap it gently and it drops like a rock. You Slam yer foot down Hard on the pedal you get a very slow decent no drop hard descent. Like I stated-azz backwards! And NEVER forget to use the built in mechanical stops to keep pressure off the lift cylinder. I built the wooden adapter with mostly scrap lumber pieces I had available in my garage. Spent a bit on the Long drywall screws I used to hold it together. Even with a 1 by bottom plate and on a car tire rear placing the adapter at times a bit of a trick shot. And as a Suggestion-couple of 1" ratchet straps to hold the Lady to the lift. Your center of balance changes as soon as either wheel is removed. Good luck there across the pond!  RIDE SAFE.

[Jess from VA]

K dog, placing the two uprights on what they are supposed to rest on underneath (and it's obvious when you lay down next to the jack and stick it up under there) is the principle guide to correct positioning.  Then you want it straight fore and aft and square to the jack arms.  And take care not to crimp or pinch the several drain tubes or the kickstand spring and pivot.

Stick a piece of 2 x 4/6 under the kickstand before running the jack under the bike and sliding the adapter on top of it.  That gives you enough room to do it.  

As you raise it on the jack it starts coming upright, and I grab the handlebar to steady it while pumping the pedal, nice and easy.

I tend to always leave my kickstand out so I don't forget to put it back out when lowering it on the jack (which will really make you feel stupid if it falls over on a folded stand).  If it needs folded up to work, pull it back out when done.

It a good policy to only raise the bike as high as you really need for your work; the lower it is, the more stable it is.

Another good policy is to lay carpet strips down each side for your knees.

Another good policy is to keep all tools either under the bike, or behind you.  What you don't want to do it leave a round screwdriver, socket, extension or some other thing to step on and slip badly and fall into the bike and knock it off the jack.  No matter how well you plan ahead, you are always getting up to go get something else or another tool, keep your footpath clear of things to step on.

If I am going to be pulling hard on wrenches or removing the rear tire or giving it a class A scrub and wax, I put one jack stand under one forward engine guard, and let the bike down enough to capture that jack stand with the bikes weight.   The trick is to capture the jack stand, and get the bike on a safety bar notch at the same time.  Now it is rock solid.  

My most exciting experience with the jack (early on), was dropping the rear tire (with no jack stand up front) and having the bike slowly begin to fall forward off the jack.  Just grabbing it with my arm was enough to keep it level, and I don't know if it would have fallen off, but I didn't want to find out.

If the bike is going to be up for any time, you want to use the safety bar to hold it at your desired height, then release the hydraulic pressure, then push the lever back to hold pressure for later.  It's OK to work on just the hydraulic lift (without the safety bar catch) if just a few minutes, but beyond that you are better on the catch.



  

[Knapdog]

Well done gents and thank you.

[RonW]

A few nuances ..... the skinner upright on the wooden adapter (second pic) rest at 'X' vrs the metal adapter. There's a flat area there. Anyway, there isn't anything under there to damage. Well, there is but more on that later on.






Some members suggested gluing the wooden parts together for stability, but glue won't hold the end grain on the uprights to the base board unless you seal the endgrain with epoxy, etc. Chrisj strengthened the uprights by using angle brackets and by adding a crossmember. You never know if you 'll be using the diy adapter for the next 20 years.




Also, on the very bottom of the diy lift adapter page, the Editor's Note discussed why some members used a thinner base board .....

• Each of these gentlemen used a thinner base board for the lift adapter, and after thinking about it, this makes real good sense.  The lift is directly under the heaviest part of the bike, and thus there is not much of a load on the base board.  Sure makes it easier to get the lift under the bike.

[RonW]

When you shove the lift jack under the bike, watch out for the spring bolt on the kickstand. It's breakable. The *keeper* may prevent the spring bolt from falling off immediately. However, that might reschedule it to fall off miles from home after you run out of bliss. Same thing if the spring bolt is only creased part way through it's diameter.






Here, the keeper prevents a severed spring bolt from falling off. A telltale symptom is the kickstand starts not retracting all the way up, and you have to habitually give the kickstand a second kick. The kickstand may need more than grease. Best to give the spring bolt a wiggle vrs. a quick visual inspection.




My theory on why the spring bolt is brittle is on it's design.



The oem parts page lists the bolt as 6mm. Its shaft however is 5mm and doesn't require a huge whack to break it at that stress point.



The minor diameter of the threads is even less than 5mm.

[Knapdog]

Whilst I just offered my lift adapter up yesterday this was the first time I'd really put it on the jack to lift it up.
This is scary.
If I hand place the adapter it feels pretty snug. Once I start lifting the bike on the jack it does not find a central settling position. It will just fall to the left or right. My heart stopped on one occasion.
What does not help, it seems to me, is the narrowness of the base.
What is the point of having the width of it 2" short of the crossmember, where the red arrow is pointing? Surely, this is asking for trouble? In other words, the wider the base the more stable it will be.



The adapter also feels planted on its own on the jack.
There is no way I could let go of the bike with my set up. Can't figure out where I'm going wrong.

[Bone]

The bottom plate is to narrow. I've used the wooden version for 14 years.
Mine is all wood like the photo posted by RW. The width stabilizes the load.
I line mine up to a spot on the frame every time I use the adapter. A
little left or right will make the load tippy.

[Knapdog]

The bottom plate is to narrow. I've used the wooden version for 14 years.
Mine is all wood like the photo posted by RW. The width stabilizes the load.
I line mine up to a spot on the frame every time I use the adapter. A
little left or right will make the load tippy.

Thanks,  Bone
My base piece is just short of 6 3/4" in width and 3/4" thick.
If I use my 2 x 4's then width cones to 7 1/2" but I found it too thick unless I remake it and try another fit. That will be my first port of call.

[Bone]

You made me curious mine is 7"  2 boards side by side.
I glued and used wood screws to attach. If you make it to wide
it will be tight on the exhaust side.

[RonW]

If I hand place the adapter it feels pretty snug. Once I start lifting the bike on the jack it does not find a central settling position. It will just fall to the left or right. My heart stopped on one occasion.

An advantage with metal lift jack adapters is that they are bolted to the engine to hold it in place. This keeps the base of the adapter flush and tight to the underside of the engine while locking the vertical legs in the position where they should be. This is vital with the lift arms starting off angled before leveling off. An unsecured adapter would shift around on the lift jack arms or lose purchase.

The elbows of the L-bolts go into the engine on each side. L-bolts prevent the adapter from shifting laterally too. Perhaps you could tie the wooden adapter to the engine with a rope for all I knows. Or, use solid copper wire, again for all I knows.

[Bone]

I like the metal adapter. I always check the placement of the wood adapter after it makes contact.
I have a auto scissors jack I place under the elevated bike not making contact but very close to
jacks arm.
I purchased a Sears jack and the instruction book says to change the jacks oil yearly. I found the proper oil
at auto parts outlets.

[RonW]

I like the metal adapter even more when I forget to take it off and happen to remember a mile down the road.

[Knapdog]

I'm back to the 2 x 4 base and also fitted a strengthener.
I pushed the bike on to 3/4" ply to higher it a bit, snugged the adapter in and carefully pulled the bike upright.
I started pumping.
Result?
No difference.  All I can say now is that my measurements must be out and need to be extremely accurate.
I have the upright 2 x 2 at 4" and the 2 x 4 is 4 3/8".
My plan now is to make another adapter and see what happens with that.
I should think that the cost of shipping one of those metal adapters from the States would be quite expensive.

[..]

I'm back to the 2 x 4 base and also fitted a strengthener.
I pushed the bike on to 3/4" ply to higher it a bit, snugged the adapter in and carefully pulled the bike upright.
I started pumping.
Result?
No difference.  All I can say now is that my measurements must be out and need to be extremely accurate.
I have the upright 2 x 2 at 4" and the 2 x 4 is 4 3/8".
My plan now is to make another adapter and see what happens with that.
I should think that the cost of shipping one of those metal adapters from the States would be quite expensive.

Yours doesn't look right

http://www.herberts.org/wayne/valk/lowtechlift.htm

[Knapdog]

Just built my second one by just putting new uprights on and trimming the edge a bit by the side stand spring.
No difference.
I can only think that American  2 x 4's are different to British ones. Ours are 3 3/4" x 1 3/4".
Had a gutsfull now. Been fiddling with it all day. Will look at it with fresh eyes tomorrow but I think a metal one is the only option.  I'm going to lose the bike on to the floor with this method.

[Bone]

The bike is heavy and all of that weight balanced on 7 inches can't be all that secure.
I have placed auto jack stands under the crash bars. It really helps. Wrenching on
the bike can tip the bike balanced without side support. If working on the wheels
I support the opposite end with a wide board.
I always place my cell phone on the floor incase I get pinned by my valk

[Knapdog]

[Avanti]

When you shove the lift jack under the bike, watch out for the spring bolt on the kickstand. It's breakable. The *keeper* may prevent the spring bolt from falling off immediately. However, that might reschedule it to fall off miles from home after you run out of bliss. Same thing if the spring bolt is only creased part way through it's diameter.






Here, the keeper prevents a severed spring bolt from falling off. A telltale symptom is the kickstand starts not retracting all the way up, and you have to habitually give the kickstand a second kick. The kickstand may need more than grease. Best to give the spring bolt a wiggle vrs. a quick visual inspection.




My theory on why the spring bolt is brittle is on it's design.



The oem parts page lists the bolt as 6mm. Its shaft however is 5mm and doesn't require a huge whack to break it at that stress point.



The minor diameter of the threads is even less than 5mm.

Yes, the spring bolt is poorly designed for the work it is doing.

[Bone]

Looks identical to mine I have a 98 Tourer Black and Chrome.
Approximately 172000 ,miles.

[Jess from VA]

Don't know what to tell you.

My cobbled together wood adapter (not as sturdy as yours) has provided about 16 years of service for two heavy interstates, and is a little beat up and oil and water stained, but still works every time.

Wood is going to be a bit more flexible than steel, but my wood, screws and work was free.

And as a carpenter, I am widely known as a hack.  I made my mom some wood bookends in 8th grade shop, and she put them in the basement.   

[Knapdog]

The problem is solved....  


I was right, American 2" x 4" is a different size to the  British version. As a result the uprights were sitting about 4mm higher from the base which meant that the base was not really flat against the bottom of the engine, which is why it rocked.
I've trimmed the uprights and it's all good.
Thank you all.
However, the adapter left a parting shot. It didn't give up without a fight. As I was trimming it I left it standing on its end, whilst I turned to get my Impact Driver. It fell over and landed on my Galaxy S10. I can now only see the top 10mm of the screen so need a new one ( and the reason why I can't show any pics). You've just got to laugh.  

[MarkT]

Another good policy is to lay carpet strips down each side for your knees.
 

Jess, I bought this kneeler pad for gardeners some time ago.  Closed cell foam.  Now I keep it handy for any kneeling - especially on gravel.  I've broken my right kneecap 3 times from impact accidents.  Now I ensure no more kneeling w/o padding.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EQFBZ7G/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=bc9b9b584e327f4599aee78a48f26722&hsa_cr_id=3309579910901&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=a83c53d5-3d9c-4c9f-9131-dc2a2f550926&pd_rd_w=Z0C9C&pd_rd_wg=Sl6Nm&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_1_img


Secondly, per the subject of this thread.  My permanent mounted lift adapter solves all the problems discussed here.  Lightweight, easy to install in 5 minutes while not using the sidestand fasteners, compatible with everything, solid not shaky lifting, strong, always there - no removal needed.  See this link - https://www.facebook.com/groups/1050687678319976/permalink/3487718787950174/?sale_post_id=3487718787950174

PM me or email at valkstuffAT-SIGNhorseapple.com

[Jess from VA]

I have that exact kneeler pad too Mark (in lime green).   

But I only use it if I'm staying in one spot (and not moving around).  The carpet is full coverage and adequate padding for me (mostly).

My knees are in better shape than yours, but I endeavor to sit on my ass (on the ground or on a low stool) instead of kneeling whenever I can, though it's harder and slower getting up to move around.

My old age motto is work slower, take your time, take breaks, and do half today and half tomorrow.   

[RonW]

I was right, American 2" x 4" is a different size to the  British version. As a result the uprights were sitting about 4mm higher from the base .....

Awesome, the thicker British 2 x 4 does throw off the uprights' overall height!

[Knapdog]

I was right, American 2" x 4" is a different size to the  British version. As a result the uprights were sitting about 4mm higher from the base .....

Awesome, the thicker British 2 x 4 does throw off the uprights' overall height!

I'll check the measurement tomorrow.  It's 21.30 here now.

[RonW]

American 2 x 4 is 1½" x 3½" 

¼" is planed off 4 sides, or surfaced 4 sides (S4S).

2 x 8 and wider is different.

1" thick lumber is different also.

Hardwoods (oak, walnut, mahogany, maple etc.) use a slighty different system.

plywood is 1/32-inch less its nominal thickness.

[Knapdog]

Allowing for the fact that I may not have trimmed the wood perfectly when I had to get the saw out, I'd say as near as dammit.....

5 and 15/16"  (151mm) for A

5 and 9/16" (141mm) for B

...if using British 2 x 4 timber, which may be of use to anyone in UK who has/had the same dilemma as myself.
Just don't drop the adapter on your phone. 

[Bone]

For measurements my A & B match yours. Are your tires real low on air ?
I'm running a 205 / 16 car tire on the back.

[Bone]

Did some thinking about my method of raising the valk.

I have a 4 inch long piece of 2x4 on the lift to remind me I place it under the foot of the side stand before I pump the pedal.
 I line up one side of the lift with a piece of tape I put on the frame or swing arm.  Roll the lift under the bike. I lay down on
a scrap of carpet and slide the adapter until it is exactly aligned with the cross member. Then a pump or 2 and I make sure it's
where it should be.

If your front end flops it will damage a tank some padding up there to be safe.

[Knapdog]

For measurements my A & B match yours. Are your tires real low on air ?
I'm running a 205 / 16 car tire on the back.

Tyres 40psi front and back.