Should I drain the fuel system for Winter storage

[Peter55]

For 20 years I winterized the Valks ( I'm on my second I/S now ) in November for about 4-5 months, as I never even turn it on during the Winter. It is a two-hours process which includes filling the tank, remove spark plugs and spraying fogging oil in the cylinders and reinstalling them, remove battery, etc. I have a detached garage that can get very cold at night, so attempting to turn it on occasionally would not work, as it wouldn't start.

However, this past Spring, for the first time in 20 years that I have been doing this, the fuel line started to leak when I first restarted the bike after about 16-17 months of storage. I didn't take it out in 2020 at all.

Fortunately the leak stopped within a couple of days, but now I wonder if I should not drain the carbs. Almost always, but certainly before storing it, I use Ethanol free gas, and still put a couple of ounces of Stabil in the tank. My question is, if anyone knows, would it be safe to leave the carbs and fuel system full of gas for 5 months? I recall reading many years ago that there was a risk that fuel could drip into the engine, and possibly damaging the motor when restarting it in the Spring. I remember replacing the Petcock about 10-12 years ago, so that should not be failing once shut off.

Does anyone know of any risk for not draining drain the fuel system? I'm still planning to remove the spark plugs and oil spray the cylinders. Could the gas in the rubber fuel lines freeze if the temperature drops to 15 degrees some nights? Although it rarely drops lower than 20. A heated storage in my area runs over $200 a month so I don't know if it is worth it. Thank you for any suggestion.

[sandy]

I would think a cover on the bike with a light bulb under the cover might provide enough heat. Here in AZ we don’t winterize so I may not know much on this subject.

[CoreyP]

When I lived in a cold climate I just drained the fuel and removed the battery and stuck it in my basement with a piece of wood under it. The battery that is. The bike was in a shed.   My bikes didn't get that much down time. I rode until ice/snow and in the spring I would take it as soon as the road didn't have ice in shaded areas.

[Knapdog]

I worry about O-rings/seals/gaskets drying out if I drain the carbs on any of my bikes.
My bikes are laid up generally from December to March, around two or three months, mainly because of salt on the road at the first signs of frost.
All I do is add fuel stabiliser and allow it to run through the system
I make sure the tank is full.
Batteries stay on the bikes but on a trickle charge.
Old carpet underneath the wheels
Quick spray of wd40 around any wheels that are spoked and chromed.
Polish the bike.
I might start each bike a couple of times to let the oil flow around a bit until the engine is warmed up and then put them back to bed. Sometimes I ​don't bother.
All my bikes have indoor covers to keep the dust off.
I have one of those sort of low power glass heating tubes which looks as if it should be a light. I might put it under the Valkyrie this winter but I don't really know what difference it will make as our winters barely go a couple of degrees below freezing.
I don't mind not riding over the winter. It's a time to plan the next year's big trip. This year I'll be renovating my 1983 C90C which I've just bought.

[Bone]

I'm 35 miles north of the Michigan / Ohio border. We have several zero degree nights. Using Stabil and filling the tank
to the top never had a problem. I pull the battery keeping it in an unheated area of the house. NEVER started while in
storage.
It's worked for all of the bikes I've owned.

[yrunvs]

I used to add sea foam and top off tank, turn off petcock, park on cardboard, cover and plug in and all was fine.

Last year I did the same but also drained carbs and in the spring I turned on petcock and she leaked like a sieve from dried out carb rail O rings. So I went through each carb and carb rail and wherever their was an O ring it was renewed using redeye's kit. New slow jets and all orifices cleaned out. Now she runs like a champ.

This year I'll not drain carbs.

[98valk]

no need to if u add Stabil 360.    having the tank and carbs drained and dry invites corrosion of various types.  Stabil 360 emits fumes that coat and preserve all exposed areas inside of the tank and carbs.
best to over fill the tank to reduce internal tank area not submerged in fuel. 

I use stabil yr round.  longest mine sat was 3-4 months due to work and long salt/brine time on the roads.

after that time the bike started right up and ran like it did 3-4 months ago.

[h13man]

I run the tank down just above reserve, add Supertech fuel treatment, fill with 90 octane, ride it home 2.25 mi., and park with the Pingel petcock off, and say good winter. I plug in the Tender Jr. every 2 mos. to monitor battery condition and it "green lights" within 5 mins. Been this way for 8 years with no issues. Used to use Stabil red but the Supertech additive makes spring startup/run much better. I do open the petcock for couple seconds every month or so to keep the bowls filled.

[hueco]

I am fortunate to live in Texas. Can ride year round. Just my thought. Add StaBil to a fresh tank of gas ride 30 miles or so to get it cycled thru carbs. It has worked for me in a old tractor that I rarely use. Good Luck. And. My condolences.

[Bagger John - #3785]

I'm 35 miles north of the Michigan / Ohio border. We have several zero degree nights. Using Stabil and filling the tank
to the top never had a problem. I pull the battery keeping it in an unheated area of the house. NEVER started while in
storage.
It's worked for all of the bikes I've owned.

Likewise, and the carbs are drained with the drain screws left open.

Batteries are removed and stored inside. All chrome and aluminum surfaces are covered with protectant oil, the bikes are parked in a corner of my garage and breathable covers placed over them. Prior to going up, the oil is changed and cylinders have a bit of oil squirted into them (procedure per the service manual).

Been doing this since the mid 90s. In total, I probably have 200 bike-storage "seasons" under my belt and have yet to experience deterioration issues with any. Except for the occasional sub-standard chrome job on aftermarket accessories, that is. Which is hard to stop from happening even in good weather.

[Peter55]

Thank you all for your inputs. I will not dry the carbs this year for the first time keeping my finger crossed for no leaks in the Spring. Although I do not use ethanol I will still add a couple on ounces of Stabil just in case.

[Bagger John - #3785]

Thank you all for your inputs. I will not dry the carbs this year for the first time keeping my finger crossed for no leaks in the Spring. Although I do not use ethanol I will still add a couple on ounces of Stabil just in case.

I took this approach a couple of times once upon a time.

With a 750 SOHC pulling the carbs for a cleaning/rebuild isn't a bad proposition. With a GL1100 it gets a little worse. A Valkyrie...you'll thank me for reminding you to drain them.

[SPOFF]

I don't drain the carbs because I don't want to dry out the o-rings in the fuel rails. One year I left the Valk on the side stand for our 7 month winter and by spring all three pilot jets on the right side were clogged with ethanol. Storing on the center stand I don't have carb issues. (Forty hours of carb cleaning is a poor way to start the spring.)

[98valk]

I don't drain the carbs because I don't want to dry out the o-rings in the fuel rails. One year I left the Valk on the side stand for our 7 month winter and by spring all three pilot jets on the right side were clogged with ethanol. Storing on the center stand I don't have carb issues. (Forty hours of carb cleaning is a poor way to start the spring.)

its not the ethanol. its actually the low grade gasoline they are making which goes bad and breaks down in about 4 wks.  they use the ethanol to boost the low grade gas so engines will run.

[Led]

I drain my carbs every Winter.   And yes, the fuel rails leak for a bit come Spring.  I just fill the entire fuel system, and when I see leakage, I shut the fuel off.  15 minutes later.....all is good again for the season.   When exposed to fuel, they swell back up?

My snowblower is the same way with the fuel petcock.  First time I go to start it, it leaks.  After a few minutes swimming with gas, and it does not leak a drop all Winter again.

Beats me what the hell they make those O-rings out of.....but it kind of sucks.  Very strange......

[98valk]

I drain my carbs every Winter.   And yes, the fuel rails leak for a bit come Spring.  I just fill the entire fuel system, and when I see leakage, I shut the fuel off.  15 minutes later.....all is good again for the season.   When exposed to fuel, they swell back up?

My snowblower is the same way with the fuel petcock.  First time I go to start it, it leaks.  After a few minutes swimming with gas, and it does not leak a drop all Winter again.

Beats me what the hell they make those O-rings out of.....but it kind of sucks.  Very strange......

usually O-rings or any rubber components used for gasoline are made from Buna-N aka Nitrile. the fuel doesn't cause any swelling. However a higher % of alcohol in the fuel can cause swelling.

nice test here of Buna-n orings swelling from different fuel additives
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/my-o-ring-swelling-test.129732/

[Led]

I drain my carbs every Winter.   And yes, the fuel rails leak for a bit come Spring.  I just fill the entire fuel system, and when I see leakage, I shut the fuel off.  15 minutes later.....all is good again for the season.   When exposed to fuel, they swell back up?

My snowblower is the same way with the fuel petcock.  First time I go to start it, it leaks.  After a few minutes swimming with gas, and it does not leak a drop all Winter again.

Beats me what the hell they make those O-rings out of.....but it kind of sucks.  Very strange......

usually O-rings or any rubber components used for gasoline are made from Buna-N aka Nitrile. the fuel doesn't cause any swelling. However a higher % of alcohol in the fuel can cause swelling.

nice test here of Buna-n orings swelling from different fuel additives
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/my-o-ring-swelling-test.129732/

Also....I am running NON Ethanol fuel in these.  Does that matter?

[Bagger John - #3785]

I usually don't experience fuel-rail issues by leaving the carbs dry.

I do, however, if the bike operates in wildly variable temps with wildly variable fuels passing through the system. Some of our area stations got popped selling 17% ethanol fuel as 10%, and that caused a lot of problems for a lot of people.

[Skinhead]

no

[mauigts]

I too, store my bike, usually a year at a time, as I live in Hawaii, fly into Cali, start her  up, and usually ride 4-6 k, then back into storage. I have always put some seafoam, or Honda stabilizer in a full tank, and run all the carbs dry , and leave her for the next trip. Have done this the last 7 or 8 years, and it starts right up, carbs run fine. But, recently, (last 2-3 years) upon starting, have had a gas leak, assume the fuel rail O rings. I turn the gas on for a minute or two, then off. Let it leak a bit, and the O rings swell up, leak stops. Ride off, no further problem.
NOW, this trip, bike stored for 2 years (cause of Covid). Started right up, but all carbs leaking and they didn't stop.
I have the post right above this one, just wanting to get the right part numbers for any O rings, and hoses that I should replace. Will be replacing all of them in a week or so, when back at the trailer, where I store it.
Have never pulled the plugs and oiled the cylinders,  just run it till all the gas is out of all the carbs.

[POPS 57]

I live in northern M.N. it gets cold. I have a 57 chev. and a valk. that get stored in a very cold pole shed from oct. to march. What i do is go to the local airport and fill the tanks with av gas. Been doing this for twenty some years with no problems. They can't have planes falling out of the air because of bad gas. Yes it's more money but how much would it cost to clean carbs. The valk. gets all av. and the chev. gets half av. and half non oxy.

[da prez]

Marine stabil. It works.
 I also tell everyone that brings me small engines. Use marine stabil in the gas can. Summer for the lawnmower and winter for the blower. I also recommend using mid grade fuel in small engines. Use it year around.

          da prez

[cookiedough]

Thank you all for your inputs. I will not dry the carbs this year for the first time keeping my finger crossed for no leaks in the Spring. Although I do not use ethanol I will still add a couple on ounces of Stabil just in case.

and remember to turn petcock to OFF as well and full tank of 91 octane NON ethanol gas with stabilizer has worked for me no issues past 20 years.  maybe been lucky, I do not know?  my luck I get gas leaking come spring???