Decided to get a Pingel

[Knapdog]

I've now had my bike a week and a half and of all the threads I've read it's only the hydroloc issue that concerns me.
As far as I know my oem petlock is working fine, along with my needles, floats, lines and everything else but so was everyone else's before hydroloc occurred.
Now I'm not very skilled at working on motorcycles. I put a lot of faith in Honda reliability. I have four Honda bikes. Mrs Knapdog and I have two Honda cars and I also have a Honda lawnmower 
I haven't got a clue what people are talking about when they mention snubbers, pulsations, restrictions, vacuums etc. It's all gobbledegook!
All I know is, for peace of mind, I need to do something about it. It's no good me getting a petcock rebuild kit, I'd fit it all upside down and the bike would be going everywhere in reverse.
The safest bet for me, due to its popularity amongst members, is to buy one of the Pingels, purely for peace of mind and knowing that I could confidently fit it. It may not be the total answer but if it's good enough for you, it's good enough for me.
I've already got into the habit of switching off the oem everytime I stop so I can't see the Pingel being a problem.
I think the model I need is one of these.



Please feel free to take the p*ss, shout abuse or take a trip across the pond and bring one with you.  

[-mike-]

Naaaa. No hate. No shouting. Your Valk, your decision. Just a little chuckle.

Snippet from Baedeker "Valkyrieland":
"Pingelingelingeling" is the ubiquitous, but lovely, mind soothing sound of the local Tibetan Prayer wheel if you cross the border of Valkyrieland. Strange for first time visitors' ears, but it is absolutely needed to turn one yourself in your hand  if you want to blend in to the locals."

Fun aside:
The Pingle will work and won't let you down.
No more, no less.
Especially no "more".
All the minor shortcomings of it you'll soon to experience.

There's still the (not so often mentioned) OEM HONDA quality out there that is also a direct drop in and doesn't need vacuum operation.
Not cheaper than the Pingle, though.

-mike-
"If it's good enough for others, it's not necessarily good enough for me"

[Knapdog]

^Thanks Mike. 

I'm reading something about a vacuum line that attaches to the oem petcock.
What do I do with that?

[-mike-]

The OEM Petcock is vaccuum operated.
If you change to any manual one (Honda CBR, Pingle, K&L, Japanese or Chinese knockoff or even modded OEM petcock), simply remove the vacuum line and plug the vacuum port of the specific carburetor it was attached to (usually No. 6).
Now it would be wise to replace all other plugs on the carb bank, too. These age and fail quite often..

If you want to use the best plugs, go to RedEye:
2 sets of these:
https://redeye.ecrater.com/p/3301919/three-vacuum-caps-honda-valkyrie
is all you need.

(You MAY find some other things there that could be useful and of HIGH Quality)  

Best of luck!

-mike-

EDIT:
For the peace of mind check if you have to keep the vacuum operation of the Valk in your country.
I know there are a few states in the US that have regulations accordingly. I don't know nothing about British road worthyness regulations.

[h13man]

When making the swap, mark the position of the old outlet position/angle to ensure proper fit for the Pingle. If my memory serves me right, LH threads are involved. Mine was installed when I bought it. I made a black cover to hide the old factory mounting/motor mount.

[Chrisj CMA]

When making the swap, mark the position of the old outlet position/angle to ensure proper fit for the Pingle. If my memory serves me right, LH threads are involved. Mine was installed when I bought it. I made a black cover to hide the old factory mounting/motor mount.

The outlet faces directly forward. No need to mark anything. Just make sure you get the old fuel filter out of the tank. Needle nose pliers work well.

[Knapdog]

The OEM Petcock is vaccuum operated.
If you change to any manual one (Honda CBR, Pingle, K&L, Japanese or Chinese knockoff or even modded OEM petcock), simply remove the vacuum line and plug the vacuum port of the specific carburetor it was attached to (usually No. 6).
Now it would be wise to replace all other plugs on the carb bank, too. These age and fail quite often..

If you want to use the best plugs, go to RedEye:
2 sets of these:
https://redeye.ecrater.com/p/3301919/three-vacuum-caps-honda-valkyrie
is all you need.

(You MAY find some other things there that could be useful and of HIGH Quality)  

Best of luck!

-mike-

EDIT:
For the peace of mind check if you have to keep the vacuum operation of the Valk in your country.
I know there are a few states in the US that have regulations accordingly. I don't know nothing about British road worthyness regulations.

You are very helpful, Mike.
OK. To get this clear in my head....
There is a vacuum line going from no.6 carb (probably) to the oem petcock. This is completely removed and the carb is plugged with one of those Red Eye vacuum plugs. ( I've just emailed them to see if they ship to the UK. If they don't, I have a possible quandary as I can't see anything equivalent on UK ebay).
So what is the advantage of having a petcock with a vacuum line as I am aware I can buy a Pingel with one? Trust me, I'm not quite as dumb as I appear (but not far off).

[Chrisj CMA]

The OEM Petcock is vaccuum operated.
If you change to any manual one (Honda CBR, Pingle, K&L, Japanese or Chinese knockoff or even modded OEM petcock), simply remove the vacuum line and plug the vacuum port of the specific carburetor it was attached to (usually No. 6).
Now it would be wise to replace all other plugs on the carb bank, too. These age and fail quite often..

If you want to use the best plugs, go to RedEye:
2 sets of these:
https://redeye.ecrater.com/p/3301919/three-vacuum-caps-honda-valkyrie
is all you need.

(You MAY find some other things there that could be useful and of HIGH Quality)  

Best of luck!

-mike-

EDIT:
For the peace of mind check if you have to keep the vacuum operation of the Valk in your country.
I know there are a few states in the US that have regulations accordingly. I don't know nothing about British road worthyness regulations.

You are very helpful, Mike.
OK. To get this clear in my head....
There is a vacuum line going from no.6 carb (probably) to the oem petcock. This is completely removed and the carb is plugged with one of those Red Eye vacuum plugs. ( I've just emailed them to see if they ship to the UK. If they don't, I have a possible quandary as I can't see anything equivalent on UK ebay).
So what is the advantage of having a petcock with a vacuum line as I am aware I can buy a Pingel with one? Trust me, I'm not quite as dumb as I appear (but not far off).

The vacuum line is so (in theory) you don’t have to turn off the valve because it shouldn’t flow gas without vacuum from the engine. The problem is that the OEM vacuum side is a common failure point and then if you left your valve on then you risk a hydrolock.

All you need to do to plug that vacuum port is cut 3/4 inch of tubing off the line you removed and screw a small flat head screw in one end and stick the other end on the port

[Chrisj CMA]

When getting ready to remove the fuel tank there’s what we call the “secret screw” stick a Phillips screwdriver in the hole on the switch knob that you turn the gas on and off with. Unscrew it; it won’t come out but it will release the switch from the petcock. Then pop the vacuum line off #6 carb and the fuel line off the petcock and the vent line off the tail of the tank. Now the tank will lift off (well after removing the front and rear bolts)

[MarkT]

You may want to JB Weld (epoxy glue) a paddle extension downward from the pingel lever so you can find it by finger.  Especially with gloves on.  Easier to do before you install the pingel.

[-mike-]

You are very helpful, Mike.
OK. To get this clear in my head....
There is a vacuum line going from no.6 carb (probably) to the oem petcock. This is completely removed and the carb is plugged with one of those Red Eye vacuum plugs. ( I've just emailed them to see if they ship to the UK. If they don't, I have a possible quandary as I can't see anything equivalent on UK ebay).
So what is the advantage of having a petcock with a vacuum line as I am aware I can buy a Pingel with one? Trust me, I'm not quite as dumb as I appear (but not far off). Shocked

RedEye will ship. You'll get an extra PP-invoice by mail.

Main advantage of vacuum triggered petcock: Security. No fuel will flow even from broken in an accident fuel line as long as the engine isn't running.
But, as mentioned: if not we'll maintained, a possible source for issues.

So as long as your local regulations aren't mandatory regarding this feature (or you just don't care) go the manual.petcock.

[-mike-]

You may want to JB Weld (epoxy glue) a paddle extension downward from the pingel lever so you can find it by finger.  Especially with gloves on.  Easier to do before you install the pingel.

That's the reason why I'd prefer the CBR petcock any time.
Honda quality, fully compatible to OEM Valk dial and shield, no vacuum.

Same price. No need to tinker with ugly epoxy on a otherwise bling petcock.

-mike-

[Knapdog]

You are very helpful, Mike.
OK. To get this clear in my head....
There is a vacuum line going from no.6 carb (probably) to the oem petcock. This is completely removed and the carb is plugged with one of those Red Eye vacuum plugs. ( I've just emailed them to see if they ship to the UK. If they don't, I have a possible quandary as I can't see anything equivalent on UK ebay).
So what is the advantage of having a petcock with a vacuum line as I am aware I can buy a Pingel with one? Trust me, I'm not quite as dumb as I appear (but not far off). Shocked

RedEye will ship. You'll get an extra PP-invoice by mail.

Main advantage of vacuum triggered petcock: Security. No fuel will flow even from broken in an accident fuel line as long as the engine isn't running.
But, as mentioned: if not we'll maintained, a possible source for issues.

So as long as your local regulations aren't mandatory regarding this feature (or you just don't care) go the manual.petcock.

Have now ordered one from  Bikes, Trikes and Quads.com, Sloansville ,  New York . Pity about the $34 Import Tax but don't have a lot of say in that. Saying it will arrive by November 15th.

[MarkT]

You may want to JB Weld (epoxy glue) a paddle extension downward from the pingel lever so you can find it by finger.  Especially with gloves on.  Easier to do before you install the pingel.

That's the reason why I'd prefer the CBR petcock any time.
Honda quality, fully compatible to OEM Valk dial and shield, no vacuum.

Same price. No need to tinker with ugly epoxy on a otherwise bling petcock.

-mike-

What "ugly epoxy"?  You can't even see it without a flashlight. 



That "Honda quality" petcock has failed for many including me - several times on Deerslayer.  It's an Achille's heel. 

I installed a solenoid fuel valve and wired it so it's powered via a latch relay, powered by the coil circuit which comes off the kill switch, on two of my Valks.  If any of the safety interlocks are active, the fuel is off.  Including the tipover relay, the ignition and the kill switches.  Bonus it provides fuel security against theft and hijacking.  I never turn the Pingel off on Jade, and don't need the reserve either.  This bike has just under 10 gallons with Interstate and belly tanks, while the fuel is shut off by the solenoid.  On George, my blown bobber show bike, I added a remote pull bar to operate the Pingel. Not so ugly, the bike took a trophy at the Colorado Motorcycle Expo a year ago.

[-mike-]

What "ugly epoxy"?  You can't even see it without a flashlight. 

Thanks.
That's exactly the picture one should show to anyone who wants just a manual Pingle and wonders about operability.
You made my point.
 

That "Honda quality" petcock has failed for many including me - several times on Deerslayer.  It's an Achille's heel.

Right about that. At least half.

1. It's not the petcock construction that fails - its the pulsating vacuum that destroys it. Poor design by Honda. One of the few issues this bike has indeed.
Get rid of the pulse - and the OEM petcock lasts forever. See experiences here in the forum.

2. I compared the manual Honda CBR petcock with the Pingle - not the vaccuum controlled OEM construction with a simple manual one. Apples and Oranges - You see? Maybe I wasn't clear enough on that in my last post. Sorry for that.

3. You can install whatever fits under the tank - any added part in the fuel line just adds to failure probability. KISS.

4. Regardless if I actually could SEE the epoxy crutch every time - I'd KNOW its there. Thats enough no-no for me. YMMV (in fact, it does)

Best,
-mike-

[Knapdog]

What "ugly epoxy"?  You can't even see it without a flashlight. 

Thanks.
That's exactly the picture one should show to anyone who wants just a manual Pingle and wonders about operability.
You made my point.
 

That "Honda quality" petcock has failed for many including me - several times on Deerslayer.  It's an Achille's heel.

Right about that. At least half.

1. It's not the petcock construction that fails - its the pulsating vacuum that destroys it. Poor design by Honda. One of the few issues this bike has indeed.
Get rid of the pulse - and the OEM petcock lasts forever. See experiences here in the forum.

2. I compared the manual Honda CBR petcock with the Pingle - not the vaccuum controlled OEM construction with a simple manual one. Apples and Oranges - You see? Maybe I wasn't clear enough on that in my last post. Sorry for that.

3. You can install whatever fits under the tank - any added part in the fuel line just adds to failure probability. KISS.

4. Regardless if I actually could SEE the epoxy crutch every time - I'd KNOW its there. Thats enough no-no for me. YMMV (in fact, it does)

Best,
-mike-

Mike, I have to agree with you there. I did find that pic posted by Mark rather confusing but Mark is happy, he's got some great bikes and knows what he's doing and I thank him for his replies.
So, do I actually need to take the tank off to fit the Pingel?
Another thought I've had, though a bit late now, is could I have just kept the oem petcock and simply removed  the vacuum line and plugged the carb?

[-mike-]

So, do I actually need to take the tank off to fit the Pingel?
Another thought I've had, though a bit late now, is could I have just kept the oem petcock and simply removed  the vacuum line and plugged the carb?

A) Yes, You do. Not an issue. There are instructions how to do that in shoptalk.
B) There's a way to mod the OEM petcock to manual operation only by reversing a rubber diaphragm in it.  I wouldn't do that. It opens another can of worms when the vacuum diaphragm fails. But again - that's just my German nature. Others are happy with it.

For the rest - p.m. sent.

I don't want to further disturb the locals.

-mike-

[MarkT]

Mike you're right on that KISS.  Good principle.  Kind of why I changed to the Pingel.  (BTW I modded the Honda petcock to manual first, per R&M's method - but determined the Pingel was better than that.)  Though the Pingel is less convenient to operate.  Especially with gloves on, practically impossible. Fortunately for me I never operate it except perhaps in an emergency - if I HAD to use the small reserve it makes available (smaller than OEM with the shorter tube).  Yep I have made a number of other mods on the bike more complex.  But that's OK I am an engineer by education, enjoy the stimulation.  I do like the convenience and added safety I have built in.  And try to make all mods (and existing fns) as reliable as I can.  Top shelf electrical methods, nearly all elect mods powered by quality relays,  everything labelled, always soldered & shrink wrapped, looms utilized wherever possible, etc.  Mods on Jade, planned in advance with maintenance support a priority.  Desmogged to eliminate the vacuum tube maintenance. My fuel system is complex.  I added a needed belly tank and R&M's design and implementation for that is unreliable.  So I changed it to be gravity feed, making the bike not have to have a working fuel pump.  It took some time and effort to tweak the mod and make it reliable - it is now, and provides nearly 350 miles range for normal riding, around 250 when I'm towing a camper. Maybe you've seen this but the writeup is at http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,84264.msg829542.html#msg829542  

Installed a Rostra electronic cruise control - because it's a better design than the vacuum operated version and has been quite reliable over several years and thousands of miles.  Modified the forward controls design from BBT as their design is also weak - now mine isn't.  Installed that on 2 of my Valks.  Installed the original Aampro (RIP) shifter anchor mod on 2 Valks, and Jersey's polished one on George (show bobber). Changed all lights to LED to lower load on the alternator, increase bulb reliability while still having better lighting than OEM.  My paradigm is "form follows function" - care less on my bike's looks than the function.  Much like Germans are known for!  In fact my heritage is Pennsylvania Deutsch so maybe that's in my blood...

[Chrisj CMA]

Dispite what you may read, the Valkyrie fuel tank is pretty easy to remove. Once you have the Pingel fitted, even easier. You really do need to remove the tank to change the petcock.

For me the reasons for changing to the Pingel were:

1.  It’s a much better piece of equipment than the OEM valve. I rebuilt my original once but when it messed up again it was gone.

2. The Pingel is capable of flowing way more fuel than you will ever need. It’s only going to flow what the engine asks for but it will never say no. The OEM valve is near its max flow right at peak engine demand so any reduction of flow due to age and internals deterioration can cause fuel starvation issues.

[Knapdog]

2. The Pingel is capable of flowing way more fuel than you will ever need. It’s only going to flow what the engine asks for but it will never say no. The OEM valve is near its max flow right at peak engine demand so any reduction of flow due to age and internals deterioration can cause fuel starvation issues.

Does this mean there is a difference in performance with the Pingel  fitted due to the fuel flowing more freely?

Also could someone tell me approximately how much fuel is left in the tank once the Reserve kicks in, please?

[Chrisj CMA]

2. The Pingel is capable of flowing way more fuel than you will ever need. It’s only going to flow what the engine asks for but it will never say no. The OEM valve is near its max flow right at peak engine demand so any reduction of flow due to age and internals deterioration can cause fuel starvation issues.

Does this mean there is a difference in performance with the Pingel  fitted due to the fuel flowing more freely?

Also could someone tell me approximately how much fuel is left in the tank once the Reserve kicks in, please?

The only difference in performance is if the OEM valve decides to not flow enough fuel. Working properly there is no performance difference. The Pingle does leave you with less remaining when reserve kicks in. I never ride to reserve. I start looking for gas around 100 miles and make sure I’m refueling by 140. I can go over 150 miles before reserve but that would be a silly thing to do unless I had to or knew exactly where gas was

[h13man]

When making the swap, mark the position of the old outlet position/angle to ensure proper fit for the Pingle. If my memory serves me right, LH threads are involved. Mine was installed when I bought it. I made a black cover to hide the old factory mounting/motor mount.

The outlet faces directly forward. No need to mark anything. Just make sure you get the old fuel filter out of the tank. Needle nose pliers work well.

Well I had to reposition mine slightly to get a better fit/alignment thus my comment due to such a short connection from the Pingel to the fuel rail connection.

[Knapdog]

El Pingel has arrived from the U.S. of A.
Fair play, that was 8 days. Very happy with that. Thought it would be about three weeks.

[Tazman11]

Installed my Pringle a couple days ago. I’m really impressed with the quality of the build and finish. I think that it does make my Valk faster though. Haha.

[Chrisj CMA]

Installed my Pringle a couple days ago. I’m really impressed with the quality of the build and finish. I think that it does make my Valk faster though. Haha.

One of these?

[FLAVALK]

I’ve had my Pingle manual valve for about 15 years. No regrets, no problems.

[Knapdog]

Installed my Pringle a couple days ago. I’m really impressed with the quality of the build and finish. I think that it does make my Valk faster though. Haha.

Any particular fitting tips you could pass on or is everything I need to know on the forum, plus, how long can I expect it to take me?

[Bagger John - #3785]

I've never noticed a fuel starvation issue with the stock style petcock - either with the vacuum operated  or the manual design.

There's a spot around the I-71/US-30 intersection that's rather low in elevation. From it, go east on 30 or north on 71 and you literally get several miles of climb. Perfect for testing tune and fuel flow.

My vacuum restrictor-equipped Tourer pulls hard and continuously up those stretches; if one dares the wrath of OSP (who are very good at hiding where least expected) it's possible to accelerate well into triple digits and hold the speed.

The CBR petcock-equipped I/S - in its current state of tune - pulls and runs equally enthusiastically. It gets a couple MPG less than the Tourer owing to drag, cams and a couple other minor differences...but it's never not wanted to keep accelerating, no matter what.

I'll put the other CBR petcock I have on the Tourer when it's apart for service and add Dan-Marcs to each as a safety shut-off, but I'm not one to forget turning on (or off) the gas. Do it enough over the years and it becomes part of the pre- or post-flight.

[dago mooserider]

“The Pingle does leave you with less remaining when reserve kicks in. I never ride to reserve. I start looking for gas around 100 miles and make sure I’m refueling by 140. I can go over 150 miles before reserve but that would be a silly thing to do unless I had to or knew exactly where gas was”


Yes, this. After I installed pingle my reserve was cut in half. Would go 40+ miles before running out on the stock one and now it’s  about 20. I learned this the hard way.  

[Chrisj CMA]

Installed my Pringle a couple days ago. I’m really impressed with the quality of the build and finish. I think that it does make my Valk faster though. Haha.

Any particular fitting tips you could pass on or is everything I need to know on the forum, plus, how long can I expect it to take me?

Just make sure you get the old fuel filter out of the tank. It usually stays in there when you pull the old valve. The Pingel just screws on and the gas feed points straight forward. You will probably need a small hose clamp, the screw kind to secure the fuel line onto the outlet

Once the tank is off it shouldn’t take ten minutes

[Knapdog]

Does the existing fuel pipe fit snugly on to the Pingel or do members change the whole thing for a smaller bore?
For a short period of time I'm thinking about fitting an inline filter close to the Pingel just to catch any remaining cack that comes out of the tank with existing fuel line to the front and a new short line to the petcock. Any thoughts?

Actually, due to a bit of research, I might give that inline filter a miss!

[Chrisj CMA]

Does the existing fuel pipe fit snugly on to the Pingel or do members change the whole thing for a smaller bore?
For a short period of time I'm thinking about fitting an inline filter close to the Pingel just to catch any remaining cack that comes out of the tank with existing fuel line to the front and a new short line to the petcock. Any thoughts?

The stock fuel line won’t fit tight. Just get a small hose clamp (screw type). Makes tank removal a snap

[Knapdog]

Does the existing fuel pipe fit snugly on to the Pingel or do members change the whole thing for a smaller bore?
For a short period of time I'm thinking about fitting an inline filter close to the Pingel just to catch any remaining cack that comes out of the tank with existing fuel line to the front and a new short line to the petcock. Any thoughts?

The stock fuel line won’t fit tight. Just get a small hose clamp (screw type). Makes tank removal a snap

That's fine. Thank you. Screw type we call "Jubilee Clips".

[Chrisj CMA]

Does the existing fuel pipe fit snugly on to the Pingel or do members change the whole thing for a smaller bore?
For a short period of time I'm thinking about fitting an inline filter close to the Pingel just to catch any remaining cack that comes out of the tank with existing fuel line to the front and a new short line to the petcock. Any thoughts?

The stock fuel line won’t fit tight. Just get a small hose clamp (screw type). Makes tank removal a snap

That's fine. Thank you. Screw type we call "Jubilee Clips".

Ya I remember you brits have different names for everything. Lol. We used to say two countries separated by a common language

[h13man]

My bike came with a Pingle thus the rear motor mount bracket had all those ugly holes in it from the OEM valve. I took the mount off and made a cover from 1/16" aluminium and painted black.