All Slow jets not fully screwed in.

[Knapdog]

I have a receipt showing work done on my Valkyrie in 2017,  in the States, a year before it came to the UK.
Including in the work was a carb strip down and sync.
As I've taken the tank off to attend to some rust I also took the carbs out for a quick inspection.
They were very clean though I noticed that all six Slow jets weren't fully screwed in. I think five of them were around a q/4 of a turn out and the other was closer to a 1/2.
Since I've had the bike it appears to be running fine though I've never come across another Valk to compare it with.
I've now fully tightened the Slow jets.
Has anyone come across this before and will it be OK to refit the carb cradle?
I presume that the Slow jets are meant to be fully in and I'm intrigued as to why they weren't

[Ron in Buffalo]

If it is running good why not reinstall it.

[pancho]

I wouldn't think twice about it,,,  whoever put them in last, probably just had a lighter hand than you do. I don't think it will make any difference.

While they are opened up, if you are not going to separate them, I would at least pull all the removable parts for inspection and put the hard pieces in an ultrasonic cleaner. 

[Knapdog]

I wouldn't think twice about it,,,  whoever put them in last, probably just had a lighter hand than you do. I don't think it will make any difference.

OK. That's what I was unsure of. So the fact that they weren't fully seated doesn't really matter.
Considering they were professionally done I still find it a bit odd. They're fully in now anyway. Thank you.

[pancho]

Considering they were professionally done I still find it a bit odd.

I don't think "professionally done" means anything more than they charged for their work. 

[Jims99]

That’s why most of us do our own work, hard to trust anyone to do anything right anymore. Yes, they should have been fully seated, snug is all you need, check everything else and you should be good to go.

[Knapdog]

Furthermore I've discovered the mixture screws were out a fair bit...

1. 6 turns out
2. 5 and 1/4
3. 4 and 3/4
4. 5 and 3/4
5. 4 and 1/4
6. 4 and 1/2

I presume setting them at 2 and 1/4 would be agreeable for all?

[h13man]

Furthermore I've discovered the mixture screws were out a fair bit...

I presume setting them at 2 and 1/4 would be agreeable for all?

That's where I'd keep them at.

[Ron in Buffalo]

Furthermore I've discovered the mixture screws were out a fair bit...

I presume setting them at 2 and 1/4 would be agreeable for all?

That's where I'd keep them at.

Me 2.

[Bagger John - #3785]

General rules of thumb when I'm doing carbs on these bikes (and I've done quite a few sets):

1) Pilots and mains are "snugged" with the appropriate JIS flat blade. My definition of "snug" isn't fully cranked down.

2) If the bowls haven't been off in a while, the bowl gaskets and the needle valves are replaced.

3) For #35 pilots, initial idle screw setting is 2 1/2 turns out. #38s are set at 2 turns.

4) Frequent plug reads are done to verify idle screw settings or to indicate they're necessary. I've actually had #38s run lean at those settings, and I've actually had #38s run so rich that #35s were swapped back in.

Lots of variables present. Tune according to your bike's equipment.