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Author Topic: Ignition Lock Cylinder question  (Read 1876 times)
superjoe37
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Posts: 26



« on: December 03, 2021, 09:10:55 AM »

The other day I initially could not get my key to go into the ignition. At first it would not go in at all, then as I continued to mess with it, it went in part way, and then all the way but would not turn. I realized something appeared to be jammed in there and thought someone may have tried to sabotage me. After a while of fiddling with it, it did turn and everything was "ok". I got the bike home and did a little more investigative work and removed all that was jammed. In the end they appeared to be plastic pieces that I assume broke internally. My question is, even though I can currently get the key in, out, and turn it to start the bike, is this the beginning of more problems that will result in my needing to replace the ignition lock cylinder? Second question if it cannot be repaired and must be replaced, any recommendations on where to pick one up? I have checked ebay, but they did not show having any. Thanks for your help!
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sandy
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Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #1 on: December 03, 2021, 09:21:04 AM »

A frequent issue is the little cover and spring that’s suppose to keep dirt out. The cover and spring break and get in the works. If you’ve pried all the pieces out, you won’t have anymore problems.
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superjoe37
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« Reply #2 on: December 03, 2021, 09:59:15 AM »

Thanks a bunch for the info!!
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hubcapsc
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upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #3 on: December 03, 2021, 10:11:00 AM »




-Mike
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #4 on: December 03, 2021, 10:16:10 AM »

It's a good reason to quirt a little penetrant, Lockease or oil in there more than you used to. 

Which is a good idea for ignition, seat latch, fork lock, gas cap, bags and trunk from time to time. 
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RonW
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Newport Beach


« Reply #5 on: December 04, 2021, 12:59:32 AM »

When the *door* is shut, positioned over the key slot, it keeps water from infiltrating the keybox. There's a scallop (dashed lines) molded into the door's surface such that sticking in the key nudges the door to the side exposing the slot. It's a good idea to file smooth the very tip of the key to prevent any right angle edges from nicking the nylon door. Again, the dashed lines represent the scallop.




something like this .....





The edge of the door has a bore to sit the coil spring. I've found that the scallop overlaps the bore creating a weak point.


« Last Edit: June 04, 2022, 06:20:41 AM by RonW » Logged

2000 Valkyrie Tourer
superjoe37
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« Reply #6 on: December 04, 2021, 04:05:19 PM »

Wow! Great info, thanks!!
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TTG53#1717
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Far West Texas


« Reply #7 on: December 04, 2021, 05:04:53 PM »

That is great info. Thanks from me too.

Something else I do is use these little S-Biners so I don’t have my full, heavy key ring jangling around and potentially damaging the lock mechanism. You just need to be a little more aware of removing the key when you shut down.

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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #8 on: December 04, 2021, 06:31:29 PM »

That is great info. Thanks from me too.

Something else I do is use these little S-Biners so I don’t have my full, heavy key ring jangling around and potentially damaging the lock mechanism. You just need to be a little more aware of removing the key when you shut down.



I have another helpful hint. Remove the key less. There are very few places I go where I actually remove it. Just leave it in. Been doing it for twenty years so there’s really less than ten years of key removal. Probably closer to five years of key removal on my ignition switch
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #9 on: December 04, 2021, 07:00:58 PM »

Another idea is to have a spare key in your wallet.  (in case someone steals the key from your ignition)

Aftermarket keys are flat (not with the Honda plastic bottom), so they lay flat in the wallet fine. 

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