170000 miles what should I change out?

[clanky]

I've got 170,000 miles on my 98 standard.  Bought it new from the dealer in 2000.  In the 22 years I've ridden I have been in the rain at most a total of 3 hours.  I've checked the valve clearances twice and did not have to make any adjustments. Change oil every 5,000 miles.  I'm having a real mental battle with the policy of "If it's not broke don't fix it" then again if one doesn't do due diligence on maintenance then don't cry when it dies. I've replaced tires, oil, air filter, spark plugs twice, a brake system rebuild, and the timing belt @100K.  I've not replaced spark wires, clutch, shock absorbers, U joints, bearings, bushings.  Am I on borrowed time?  What does the group suggest I look into to avoid problems.  Thanks in advance for your input(s). 

[sandy]

Original shocks are shot. Look into something better. Steering head bearings are “notched for sure”. Check swingarm bearings.

[clanky]

Sandy, your statement of "notched for sure" on the steering head do you mean that I should feel a rough spot in my steering as I turn the handle bars from one end to the other?

[sandy]

Raise the front off the ground. Lightly move the bars back and forth and if you feel a bump usually in the middle, then the steering neck bearings are “notched”. This condition can cause a wobble at speed if you let go of the bars.

[clanky]

Gotcha will check that out.  Thanks

[clanky]

Anybody change out the hoses just because they are 20+ years old?  Brake hoses, coolant flow hoses?  I had already changed out all the carburetor vacuum hoses and fuel o-rings when I had hydro lock in 2017 and rebuilt all the carbs.  I'm still running with the original water pump. (Though I change the coolant every other year). 

[Ron in Buffalo]

I agree that the suspension is the first thing I would look at 170k and probably change. Hoses if they are not hard or have check patterns I would leave alone. Brake and clutch I would do stainless steel braided. Then there is other side if it’s not broke don’t fix it.

[h13man]

After 170,000 mi., I'd say you should know all the maintenance/problems on this bike, I'd say you're "one" with your bike. When I went thru the T6 EPA oil changes I felt and heard changes in my bikes tranny thus after two different oil variant after, Mobil 1 put the ole gurl' back on track. I think you're doing just fine. Ride on. 

[hueco]

Normal wear and tear is ,well, normal. A lot depends on how it is stowed when not in use. Is it kept outside in the elements? Is it kept in the garage? Is it kept in the living room in a controlled environment? Sounds like you  are meticulous on maintenance. Keep on keeping on. Keep on trucking.

[rug_burn]

Normal wear and tear is ,well, normal. A lot depends on how it is stowed when not in use. Is it kept outside in the elements? Is it kept in the garage? Is it kept in the living room in a controlled environment? Sounds like you  are meticulous on maintenance. Keep on keeping on. Keep on trucking.

Yes, I agree, our bikes are rather like trucks, or maybe tanks..!

  But seriously-  after that many miles suspension and all fuel hoses, including the vapor rail hose would need some attention, most likely.
   Any Nitrile/Buna N/NBR (the type of rubber used for fuel and oil) hoses have a 20 year service life, and will probably be as hard as a rock about now.    If you've never disturbed them, they may be okay for a while longer even in their aged state, but as soon as you start moving them around, you'll  see they're done.   
    Same thing for the o-rings on the fuel and vapor rails and carb gaskets.   I'm doing mine right now, for the second time on my '97 Tourer.
    Water and brake line hoses are usually EPDM rubber and last much longer, at least in theory...