The reverse Gold Wing motor

[John Schmidt]

Looks pretty clean, has 68k on the clock so should be in good mechanical shape. I'm quietly excited about this new project, still pondering how to install a handle on the black reverse engagement apparatus located above the oil fill cap.

[Steel cowboy]

How about fuel injection using a 6 cylinder Jeep aftermarket fuel injection system. Just a thought. Take lots of pictures and updates I would try it as I get older.

[gordonv]

Keep us posted on how to solve this upgrade. I believe the GW uses a cable. So with that in mind, you can do almost anything.

I was thinking is you could just add on a manual handle at that point.

The issues I was thinking of is the lock outs, heat sink, and the like.

Are you going to add this to your trike?

[John Schmidt]

Too much extra engineering and cost for FI. I'll be spending a few hundred more just to convert the engine over since I don't want to strip the original motor now in the trike...an I/S unit.

One thing I'm curious about...every time I've removed a Valk(or a Wing) motor it's been done after the tank and carbs were already removed for other reasons. I'm wondering if dropping the motor without removing those two things is possible...anyone ever do it? Seems like it might be if I can get the trike high enough before removing the bottom framework. I know it will be at a nose high angle if I can since I don't plan on lifting the entire trike, just the front end.

[John Schmidt]

Keep us posted on how to solve this upgrade. I believe the GW uses a cable. So with that in mind, you can do almost anything.

I was thinking is you could just add on a manual handle at that point.

The issues I was thinking of is the lock outs, heat sink, and the like.

Are you going to add this to your trike?

Doubt I'll be using the cable approach, more likely I'll be adding a handle to the right side where the black  apparatus is...kinda like Steve(UK) did which does away with cables and gives a positive mechanical action. As I recall, the cable is engaged on a Wing by using the lever mounted on the left side. So, rather than do that I want to just fabricate a handle to mount on the right side. As for all the monitoring done by the Wing installation/wiring, I'll probably not be installing such as a failsafe measure. I just want to be able to engage the gearing in the starter system, maybe have a relay involved to be energized only when in neutral, another relay to activate the starter when everything is in order and you press the start button...or use a completely separate button. All still up for grabs.

[steveB (VRCC UK)]

I see no problem leaving the airbox and carb assembly in place - just unbolt the manifolds. I'm not sure you can easily remove the engine hangers without removing the tank. When I remove a motor on a Valk I unbolt it from the frame whilst it's sat on the jack and lower it, then slide it out to the left. I don't lift the bike just hold it upright. It will probably be easier on the trike but running it's wheels up on some blocks may be helpful. I didn't overthink the lever, but you will need to fabricate a holding device as the Wing system is sprung to pull it back into neutral.

[John Schmidt]

"I didn't overthink the lever, but you will need to fabricate a holding device as the Wing system is sprung to pull it back into neutral."
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
I'm thinking maybe add a notched plate for the handle to snap into place when activating the system. When done, just move the handle out of the notch and let it drop back to neutral. I'll have to wait and see  how to approach it once I have the motor in front of me.

[John Schmidt]

Well...yesterday I drove down to Ross's place(da prez) NW of Chicago and picked up the Wing motor. That sucker is kinda heavy, you all would have laughed watching two old farts trying lift it off his trailer and up into my SUV. Soon as we got the weight off the front of his trailer, it became evident the other motor he had at the back of it made the trailer act like a see-saw....up it came in front pivoting on the axle. No way were we going to lift it high enough to clear the trailer now, so back onto the trailer while he dug up some 4x4 blocks to put under the back end. We then laid a couple 4x2's(much like 2x4's but if you swap ends....) from the trailer to the car and dragged the motor along them. After much huffing and puffing and a few o-craps(translated), we got it into place...blocked up and tied down. After a short rest and visit with Ross and Bonnie, I headed for Jim C's place in Oconomowoc(five o's? really?) about 74 miles NW. Was a good rest spot due to a bunch of the Wisconsin riders planning on a gab fest there last evening. In all, there were eight of us there sitting in a circle in Jim's huge garage...of which I'm extremely jealous. I left there about 7:40pm and made it home at 9:50...113 miles door to door.

Now comes the problem of getting the motor out of the car and on the work table. I'm seriously considering renting an engine hoist, thereby saving both myself and son-in-law some trouble. It's not so much the weight as it's cumbersome & doesn't come with handles, plus you have to reach inside the back of the SUV so you're working at arms length. Stay tuned, the "fun" is just beginning. I'll most likely start a new thread to cover the conversion and all that was involved.

[Jack B]

Before you go through all that work have you called any trike shops and asked them about adding reverse.
A friend has a Harley with an aftermarket trike kit and he has reverse on his I don’t know how it all works, but it might be worth a few phone calls.

[John Schmidt]

Before you go through all that work have you called any trike shops and asked them about adding reverse.
A friend has a Harley with an aftermarket trike kit and he has reverse on his I don’t know how it all works, but it might be worth a few phone calls.

Jack, there's kits out there but are rather expensive. One person paid near $2k for his on his trike, believe it was a Valk also. I won't have near that invested, be surprised if it goes over $6-700 total for parts and gaskets including the motor cost.

[steveB (VRCC UK)]

John - As I seem to be regularly removing and replacing GL motors, I made a square frame from 4x2 with a 3/4 ply top. Fitted industrial casters at each corner (preferably lockable) high enough to slide the jack under. Saves 2 of you breaking a sweat moving it about the workshop. I keep a spare wrecked Valk motor on one under a work bench, just roll it out (single handed) when you need to cannibalise it. SteveB

[John Schmidt]

Steve, I have an hydraulic lift table rated for 300lbs., has casters...one end will lock. Plus, it will go low enough so I can roll it under the trike to install when the time comes. In the mean time, I can set it at a working level and use one of my rolling shop stools to work around the table while getting the engine ready for exchange. However, getting it out of the back of my SUV on to that table is going to be interesting.

Since I have to change the cams and rocker arms, I'm watching for a set off a 1997 or possibly an entire set of heads from a '97.

[steveB (VRCC UK)]

OK John - You could run it with Wing cams and lifters 'till the Valk bits show up. You will also need the thermostat housing and the chrome water pipes from the Valk. Wing pipe is smaller on the L/hand and both have outlets for carb heaters (maybe just Euro Wings have heaters ?). Great project keep us posted.

[John Schmidt]

OK John - You could run it with Wing cams and lifters 'till the Valk bits show up. You will also need the thermostat housing and the chrome water pipes from the Valk. Wing pipe is smaller on the L/hand and both have outlets for carb heaters (maybe just Euro Wings have heaters ?). Great project keep us posted.

The cooling parts mentioned already ordered except for the coolant pipes, still undecided on the cams/rocker arms. I've spotted a set of '97 heads which I might spring for and remove the cams/rockers. Still a bit hazy on the wiring, I did order what appears to be a good starter and the two gears it engages. Turns out both are missing and only thing visible in that area is the internal roller bearing. Wish I knew what the difference is between the Wing cams and the Valk cams. If comparable I'd consider leaving the Wing cams in to save work and $$.

[JimC]

John,
For your intended use, my opinion is to save your money on the cams. I had a 1500 wing and it was not much behind the Valkyrie as far as speed and power. Definitely not worth the time or money for the little return.

Jim

[John Schmidt]

Jim, kinda my thoughts so far as well. I've owned a couple 1500 Wings and they were't slouches...especially after installing a 4 deg. trigger wheel. Maybe just new belts and transfer the TW I have in the current motor. I might search for the different cam profiles just for comparison. Personally, I think it would be better to leave the cams as they are since they've been running in that motor since it was built. Wouldn't have to buy new seals, etc., just the belts.

Wonder if the chrome valve covers on the Valk will fit on the Wing motor. I've been told the Wing's are deeper and take longer bolts.

[JimC]

I have heard that the wing bolts on the Valk valve covers will work, at least going from wing to valk. so it should work for you from valk to wing.
In other words, keep the bolts with the valve covers that they originally came with.

Jim

[Cracker Jack]

Just speculation on my part, but wouldn't you think you would be good if you kept the original bolts and covers together.

[steveB (VRCC UK)]

Deeper covers, longer bolts on the Wing. I'm using powder coated Wing covers and bolts on my current Valk just for looks. I'm guessing they are deeper to clear the hydraulic lifters, but a couple of measurements should tell.

[John Schmidt]

I'm still a bit hazy on the electrical aspect, guess I'll wait until the new motor is ready to install and see what needs to be done. If there's a chance I'll have an issue, I won't make the swap before Inzane. Don't want to take a chance on not having something to ride.

[ridingron]

I would seriously consider swapping out the Wing and Valk heads manifold and carbs.  But really, other than a half step in performance and bragging rights, what's the difference in the 2 set ups?

Anyone know if the Wing cams can handle the Valk's carbs?

[steveB (VRCC UK)]

Without fabricating an airbox, ain't no way the Wing carbs will work. In my murky past I've used the Valks 6 carbs on a Wing engined Valk - no sweat. (Purely subjective - the Wings manifold is ugly as a hat full of monkeys wotsits)

[John Schmidt]

Without fabricating an airbox, ain't no way the Wing carbs will work. In my murky past I've used the Valks 6 carbs on a Wing engined Valk - no sweat. (Purely subjective - the Wings manifold is ugly as a hat full of monkeys wotsits)

Couldn't agree more, I've never seen so much crap on top of a motor. Once removed I might put it on the scales just to see how much it weighs.(had to look up wotsits  ) As for swapping the heads, more work than I plan or care to do. In the past I've done head work on untold numbers of engines so it's not as though I'm unable...just lazy in my decreptitude. My plan is to use the basic Wing motor "as is" with just a change-out of certain items needed to adapt it to the Valk; water pump cover, clutch slave(needs cleaning in there anyway), t'stat housing...questionable re. the water tube sizing however, timing belt cover...ugly black to chrome. Giving serious thought to using the Wing valve/head covers, just need to replace the gold inlay on one side and after having the covers powder coated...color undecided. As for performance, not really an issue as long as the trike's performance matches mine...draw your own conclusions on that.  

At this time, the motor is still in the back of my SUV. I have borrowed an engine hoist from someone that has no need of it so will wait until the weather is a bit more desireable(at least in the 30's and not snowing) before transferring it to my hydraulic table.

[steveB (VRCC UK)]

John, the Wing timing cover is  polycarbonate in 2 pieces. Now that's ugly. Other slight problem, the inner timing covers behind the cam pinions are smaller radius on the Wing, so the chrome Valk timing cover will not fit. You need to rob the inner covers from the Valk motor after removal of the cam belts and pinions.

[John Schmidt]

Are you talking about #4 & 6 in this breakdown?

https://www.procaliber.com/oem-parts?aribrand=HOM#/Honda_Powersports/GL1500CFA_(99)_VALKYRIE_INTERSTATE%2c_USA%2c_VIN%23_1HFSC410-XA000001/FRONT_COVER_%2b_TIMING_BELT/61347acc-638e-40e4-aa4f-0fceb839ab88/49061fdb-3dba-480a-8676-5bcabf152171/y

[steveB (VRCC UK)]

Yep - that is they.

[John Schmidt]

OK...just picked up a set for $48 off ebay. I'll be changing the belts and T/W so will be a good time to do this change. Will probably get new gaskets for where they attach. Starter was deilivered today, the two gear that go inside on the shaft came a couple days ago.

[SCain]

John,
I know someone that makes valkyrie inserts for those wing valve covers, if you are interested email Chuck Lane canelane@yahoo.com. He makes an alum insert with the maiden head, 1520 Made In the USA.

Giving serious thought to using the Wing valve/head covers, just need to replace the gold inlay on one side and after having the covers powder coated...color undecided.

[F6BANGER]

Here are some of the Valkyrie inserts for the goldwing valve covers That I have made.

[John Schmidt]

This is my work table for projects such as this, also very handy for carb rebuilds. I can jack it up to the height shown and use my shop stool to sit down while I work on it. Note I've removed all the junk on top of the motor, such a mess of stuff there that it took over an hour. Finally was able to access the four top motor mounts that enabled me to lift the motor out of the back of my SUV using a hoist. I've received all but one item ordered to complete the switch to a Valkyrie application. At the moment I'm going to make a run for some hardware...grade 8 bolts long enough to press out the Wing motor mount vibration absorbers. Tried tapping them out via hammer and punch...no joy. Don't want to get heavy handed so as to break a mount so will use a couple sockets to press them out. Pictures will follow...only after I'm successful.  Notice the wet floor, the coolant wasn't totally drained I found out when I removed the water pump cover.