Over-torqued nuts holding final drive

[Boxcar01]

Some idiot in the past must’ve torqued to double factory specs the 4 nuts holding the final drive on my Valkyrie.  Now I’m in the middle of what was a final drive service and rear wheel replacement and I have 3 of 4 nuts that absolutely will not budge.  To make matters worse, the flange stuck to the final drive when I pulled the wheel so removing the final drive is now a necessity.

They are not rusty at all, just way over-tightened.  WD-40 did nothing.  As you know u don’t have space around them to fit a socket, so forced to use a 14mm open end wrench.  **Any tips on getting these off??**.   I.E. nut splitter, torch, etc?  Nuts are starting to strip when I apply leverage.  Next try is open end nut splitter but I’m open to suggestions.

[RonW]

..... the flange stuck to the final drive when I pulled the wheel so removing the final drive is now a necessity.

Have you tried prying the 5-star flange with a flathead screwdriver? At red rectangle, below.

[Jims99]

With the shocks removed, you can change hight of the rear to get a socket on. If they’re that tight, make sure to use a 6 point socket. Sometimes different extensions help out. Wd40 and others make a penatrating spray that will help better. Good luck.

[hubcapsc]

Every time I do that job I probably take apart more stuff than some
people normally would. Jims99 mentioned removing the shocks. I
take off the rear fender section too... anywho... taking stuff off might
give you room work that will help... and if your flange is jambed in
there cockeyed now, fiddling with your wheel until it is back on and
then using that slot ronw posted a picture of with a big screwdriver
as a lever could be helpful in getting the flange to stay in the
wheel...







-Mike

[RonW]

..... If they’re that tight, make sure to use a 6 point socket. Sometimes different extensions help out. Wd40 and others make a penatrating spray that will help better. Good luck.

might be easier after the rear wheel is removed out of the way. *might*

[Skinhead]

Stop messing around with an open end wrench, you are only inviting more aggravation.  If you don't already have them in your tool box, go to harbor freight and get some 3/8" drive wobble extensions and 3/8" drive metric sockets.  I have never had a problem getting sockets on those nuts.  Also, an impact gun may help or a long handle rachet or breaker bar.  Leverage is your friend.

Edit:  Also the previous owner may have loctited the nuts on the final drive.  If that is the case, heat will be required to soften the loctite.  Also, the studs may come out of the housing before the nuts loosen.  If so, lock the studs in a vice, to remove the nuts and then use red loctite on the studs when you reinstall them.

[Avanti]

If you end up putting the studs in a vice make sure you use aluminum faceplates in your vice.

[Chrisj CMA]

Some idiot in the past must’ve torqued to double factory specs the 4 nuts holding the final drive on my Valkyrie.  Now I’m in the middle of what was a final drive service and rear wheel replacement and I have 3 of 4 nuts that absolutely will not budge.  To make matters worse, the flange stuck to the final drive when I pulled the wheel so removing the final drive is now a necessity.

They are not rusty at all, just way over-tightened.  WD-40 did nothing.  As you know u don’t have space around them to fit a socket, so forced to use a 14mm open end wrench.  **Any tips on getting these off??**.   I.E. nut splitter, torch, etc?  Nuts are starting to strip when I apply leverage.  Next try is open end nut splitter but I’m open to suggestions.

2 things. First, there is absolutely room for a 14mm socket and a long breaker bar. Take the shock off and there’s room. Second get the wheel back onto the flange and put the axle back in without the caliper plate and spacer. Then do as Ronw said, pry the flange and wheel off the drive

[Boxcar01]

Well I found part of the problem.  Bike has a COBRA chrome final drive cover which limits access to the 4 bolts.  Honestly I though this was standard.  Hate to have to remove 6 more parts/covers just to get to the chrome cover to remove it, just to be able to get a socket around a nut.  But I guess that's what I'm gonna have to do.  Then try a 6 point socket with a long breaker bar and see what happens.   

[Chrisj CMA]

Yes, those chrome covers are a pain but I always remove them. Truth be told if I know it’s in there I ask the owner to remove it before bringing the bike over. Sometimes they do, sometimes they don’t.

Get the wheel off first that will make life much easier

[Boxcar01]

Do they just snap on and off? Or are they zip tied / bolted in somehow.  Didn’t see any bolts

[Chrisj CMA]

Do they just snap on and off? Or are they zip tied / bolted in somehow.  Didn’t see any bolts

The ones I heave dealt with use zip ties

[Jess from VA]

The cover is held in back with either zip ties or hose clamps.   Kinda similar to exhaust heat shields.

It might also have double sided tape underneath.  

[Boxcar01]

SUCCESS!  Removing the chrome driveshaft cover, then heat and leverage and a 6 point socket did the trick. 

[Chrisj CMA]

Great. But that oil seal being off its seat is concerning. Did you pull the drive shaft out of the pinion cup yet?

[RonW]

that oil seal shouldn't be in two pieces. Or is this why they said the oil seal should be installed flush with the adjacent surface?

[Chrisj CMA]

that oil seal shouldn't be in two pieces. Or is this why they said the oil seal should be installed flush with the adjacent surface?

That arrow is pointing to the thrust washer. “Two pieces?”

[RonW]

okay