JB McG
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« on: February 24, 2022, 09:22:22 PM » |
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I'm pretty well convinced I'm going to do a desmog. Bike runs great, except for the popping, particularly on decel, during engine braking. I feel reasonably sure it's the vacuum lines because the exhaust is stock, from what I can tell (except the turnout tips).
I have an unopened stealth kit, but after reading lots of posts, it seems like a better idea to do the shiny kit (whenever they're back in stock).
So, while I'm in there, I think I'll do the petcock vacuum line, and maybe the intake rings, new air filter. I'll get a set of the header gaskets, as I've heard this is an easier job if the pipes are removed, plus, might as well take a closer look at them and clean them up. I'm also going to purchase a few extra studs and nuts, just in case.
Anything else I should think about doing while I'm at it? I'm happy with the way the bike's running other than the popping. Petcock was rebuilt recently by PO.
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AKA, Jon '98 Tourer Bellingham, WA
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JB McG
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« Reply #1 on: February 24, 2022, 10:38:24 PM » |
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Sounds like you’ve got it pretty well covered. The only thing I might add would be a DanMarc fuel shut off while you’ve got everything off.  That's a very solid idea. I'm fairly confident I can do the desmog (I have limited mechanical skills), but I've yet to find a description of the fuel shut off that looks straightforward enough for me to tackle. I may reach out to the local PNW riders to see if anyone's done that mod. Thanks for the tip!!
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AKA, Jon '98 Tourer Bellingham, WA
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RonW
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« Reply #2 on: February 25, 2022, 12:31:15 AM » |
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after you torque the header nuts to specs etc, recheck them a few days later and then a week later. You'll probably have to retighten them a tidbit incrementally. Something to do with those o-rings being hollow. It's wiser not to crush the o-rings all at once. It doesn't take much overtightening for the nuts to break the exhaust studs off (7-ft lbs, per manual) . [edit] ..... if your shifter's oil seal is leaking you might replace it while you have the mufflers off. The old oil seal is usually removed by driving a dry wall screw into the oil seal and yanking on the drywall screw to extract the old oil seal from its bore. 
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« Last Edit: February 25, 2022, 01:18:26 AM by RonW »
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
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hubcapsc
Member
    
Posts: 16769
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #3 on: February 25, 2022, 04:20:27 AM » |
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All the "refurbish" stuff you listed seems like a great idea to me.
When I got my Valkyrie and read every post on the tech board and every article in shoptalk I was sure I needed to get a pingel, desmog, put on an electric fuel shutoff and I don't remember what else.
I did do the desmog. I find it kind of desirable to have the extra space and the removed vacuum lines. In retrospect, I'm real glad I didn't do all those other modifications. I helped Stanley Steamer change out all the vacuum lines on his un-modified Valkyrie, it wasn't hard. I'd suggest waiting to do the modifications till next year if you still want to.
When you get your parts, I'd get a petcock rebuild kit and a new tank strainer. There's a shoptalk article on testing a petcock to see that it holds vacuum. That the previous owner rebuilt it is no guarantee. I've read a lot of posts through the years about rebuilt petcocks that continued to not work right...
EDIT: the header studs and nuts are good to have, and I'm glad I have some extras. Get ready to be shocked that the header nuts are about $1,000,000 each...
-Mike
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« Last Edit: February 25, 2022, 04:22:23 AM by hubcapsc »
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JB McG
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« Reply #4 on: February 25, 2022, 09:50:11 AM » |
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Thanks for the suggestions so far. Hoping Rich gets the Shiny kit back in stock soon. In the meantime, I'll start pulling stuff off the bike, take apart the petcock, look at the shifter, further research the fuel shutoff, etc. I really appreciate all the advice and opinions!!
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AKA, Jon '98 Tourer Bellingham, WA
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Tazman11
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« Reply #5 on: February 25, 2022, 01:56:06 PM » |
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Check your messages
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JB McG
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« Reply #6 on: February 25, 2022, 03:53:45 PM » |
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Check your messages
Hey Tazman, I saw your message and responded, but I guess it didn't go through for some reason. I did email Rich and he some bigger cycle shops bought out his inventory and needs a few days to replenish supply. Thanks!
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AKA, Jon '98 Tourer Bellingham, WA
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #7 on: February 25, 2022, 04:58:10 PM » |
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What else during desmog?
Almost every time I take things apart, I find other things that need work or repair or replacement.
When things are opened up is the time for careful investigation.
I had my desmogs done by a pro. He had run out of the good vacuum caps (to put over all the nipples on the backside of the air intakes; except #1 to the petcock).
On a subsequent long trip, I developed loud backfires and a rough idle. Highway speeds and hard decels cause a great deal of vacuum to develop, and the cheapo auto parts vacuum caps blew off entirely or tore in two. The backfires were so loud, cars around me thought someone was shooting at them.
Ensure you use top quality vacuum caps that will stand up to heat. (and keep some spares in the bike)
The usual auto parts mixed size packages are crap.
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« Last Edit: February 28, 2022, 03:03:47 PM by Jess from VA »
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CoreyP
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« Reply #8 on: February 25, 2022, 08:18:31 PM » |
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You don't need to take off the pipes to desmog. I didn't. The hardest thing is getting the air box on the right way. It's just a terrible thing to line up right.
I clean and inspect everything when something pops up. I needed new tires because the ones that came with the bike were old and crappy. Checked wheel bearings, lubed front and back, wheels looked over, cleaned, breaks etc. I checked every part involved with the wheels. I wouldn't just look over the forums and change out anything that was brought up as a wear out item.
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JB McG
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« Reply #9 on: February 28, 2022, 02:21:54 PM » |
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Update: Still waiting for the desmog kit to come back in stock. In the meantime, I was getting antsy, so knowing I was planning to replace the intake feeder rings, (and since the previous owner gave me a a set he'd ordered from Redeye), I went ahead and installed them. Took the bike on a (cold, wet, and brief) test ride, and I didn't notice any popping. Still want to do the desmog, but it seems the vacuum leak has been at least partially addressed.
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AKA, Jon '98 Tourer Bellingham, WA
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JB McG
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« Reply #10 on: March 28, 2022, 07:51:06 PM » |
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Finally got my hands on a Shiny kit, which I installed along with the new intake rings and boots, as well as replaced the petcock vacuum line. Bike's running like a peach!
Thanks for all the help and suggestions. May go back in at some point and do the fuel shutoff, but for now, I'm happy. I did order a petcock rebuild kit, but I think it's on back order, as it's been several weeks and they keep pushing back the ship date.
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AKA, Jon '98 Tourer Bellingham, WA
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Knapdog
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« Reply #11 on: March 28, 2022, 11:59:33 PM » |
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I bought the desmog kit from Red-Eye but I've never used it. Once I realised you had to snap off one of the pipes (was it #1, or #6, or both?), then I stopped right there in my tracks. That wasn't going to happen. It may be possible, of course, to leave them in somehow but my mind was made up. I'd stick with the original set up. I'd also bought a Pingel, which is still in its packaging. I'll eventually get around to selling both. Instead, I replaced the vacuum lines and fuel lines and rebuilt the petcock with the kit. I cleaned out the fuel tank and fitted a new air filter, cleaned the carbs and fitted new o-rings and then synchronised them. Also attended to shaft drive with new gaskets and o-rings and moly paste. The fluids were changed and new chain tensioners, etc when I bought it from the dealer. I ensure that I turn the petcock off at every stop and it's now second nature. Bike is running like a dream.
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« Last Edit: March 29, 2022, 12:05:54 AM by Knapdog »
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Stay between the hedges!
'98 Honda Valkyrie Tourer⁸ '96 Honda C90 '83 Honda C90C
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