Another Headlight Saga - No headlights - 99 Valkyrie Standard

[laketboy]

OK you Dragon Gurus, Just a few more aweome tips...

Been all through this beast from fork rebuild (let a pro do it), rebuild/paint brake calipers, flush brake and clutch (Coffee BROWN) fluids, new brake pads, new tires, pulled and re-installed airbox (mostly to clean and check fuel/air lines, serviced final drive and pinion with 3% moly grease and final drive and wheel gear with TSMoly 70 paste, new petcock, non-ethanol premium tank full + SeaFoam for a tank or two, cleaned and polished everything and ready to go get inspected and licensed, BUT NOW my headlight no workie!

Have spent considerable Google-Foo time on the headlight issue both with our Valks and the GL1500 wings. Found several helpful posts. So, here goes.

I've been into the left control and cleaned (electrical cleaner) and light silicone spray as well as right start control with same clean/silicone. Issue is no headlight high beam or low beam and no blue high beam indicator. I checked bulb and it looks good. Pretty sure I'm not getting 12v at the right control start switch OR the headlight.

If not mistaken, the Valk IS (and maybe wings) have both a Low Beam and High Beam relay, but our Standard (and Tourers?) DO NOT have any headlight relay correct? If so, please correct me and tell me which of the relays in front and attached to battery box is for the headlight.

Also, can you validate the headlight circuit runs from the battery power//fuse to the right hand starter, then to the left hand Hi/Lo beam switch, then to headlight. I'm trying to decipher the electrical schematic in the service manual...

I plan to by a new bulb as a spare, but no power at headlight plug needs to be solved first.

Any help appreciated. I hate electrical issues in cars, boats, bikes and homes!!!   

[WintrSol]

There is a 10A headlight fuse, which puts power on the high side of the headlight portion of the starter switch, via a Bl/R wire. It passes through a 9 pin connector.

Did you actually open that switch? Sometimes the contacts get burnt or worn to the point they won't make contact without some work.

[da prez]

  Check power on both sides of the plug. I searched one for an hour before finding out it was a bad connection in the plug.

                                                 da prez

[laketboy]

Thanks guys, I did crack open both left Hi/Lo switch and right Start switch and cleaned and light spray silicone. I did not open or dig into either switch to check contacts, will do that in the morning. The 4 (I think) wires in right side Start control looked ok, no corrosion and connected). I checked the 10A fuse in fuse block under right cover, think it's marked Hi/Lo Headlight and 3rd one down, it was good. I'll check into the 9 pin connector and any plugs in the line. The bike has significant west Texas dust behind covers and along harness, but I haven't found any corrosion. Pretty sure bike has been in Lubbock Texas most of it's life. Thanks for the suggestions   

[h13man]

I had an issue at night with the low beam not working 3 yrs. ago. Sprayed it with WD40 and worked it back and forth a few times and issue hasn't happened since but I'm always checking it to be sure. When my starter side switch failed, I just replaced the whole unit as it controls the start and the headlight circuit which I lost both and had to be push started to get home. Yes I could have took a chance and cleaned it but little springs and such, nah. 2013 price was $65. Part number had been revised at that time also.

[laketboy]

Ok, with 1st cup of coffee this beautiful Sunday morning here in Prosper, Tx I pulled out the wiring diagram in the service manual and my trusty magnifying glass  and drew my own diagram of just the headlight circuit, following all 3 wires through all the 6 and 9 pin connectors. I'm going to pull apart the start switch to look for issues mentioned in these 2 posts: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,116792.0.html
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,118728.0.html
Then chase down the connections at the 6 and 9 pin connectors IF I can find them.

If anyone gets to this, WHERE the HECK are these connectors?? The wiring diagram shows a total of 3 associated with the headlight wiring: The 9 pin Black that WintrSol mentions that the Bl/R from fuse to HL on Start/Stop Switch runs through, then there's another 9 pin Red and 6pin Green that both the Bu from H1 on left hand Hi/Lo (dimmer) switch to the High Beam (idiot) Indicator and the G (Green/GND?) to High Beam Indicator both run through. Hoping to find them all and clean/check.   

[MarkT]

In the headlight bucket.

[WintrSol]

My money's on the sliding contact inside the switch - that's where my problem was. Since all the power for the headlight goes through it, a little wear or dirt can cause it to heat up, making it stick down enough the spring can't push it back up. I've since added a headlight controller to bypass that power choke point, so the switch only provides a signal. Others have put a relay in line for the same purpose.

[laketboy]

Update I thought I had posted. I pulled apart the white rectangular start switch and the small copper contact was like it was super flued down, no movement or sping whatsoever. One side it seemed had gotten hot and melted the plastic slot around it. I worked and worked with a xacto knife to free it, but not happening. I finally got it out but damaged the spring which seemed to be anchored down in the slot that was fried. I said F it and ordered a new left side start/stop switch. Today, I was actually able to clean up the one plugged slot and get copper contact back in shape to go in and slide freely. I did my best reshaping the tiny spring around the end of a toothpick, put a tiny dot of JB Weld on the end that contacts the copper contact, currently held in place with pliers wrapped with large rubber band until morning. I'll clean the 4 small contacts on the mating surface where the 4 wires connect and see what happens tomorrow.

MarkT, Of course... duh, inside the headlight bucket where I've been numerous times but not looked for the 6 and 9 pin connectors... My better half would not be surprised that I've been in there and still asked about where stuff in there was! lol. Also have seen your red dragon in search for fender mods and saved the pic. I bought a clean used rear rear portion off eBay and going to cut with same bottom profile as stock as low as I can just above the stock turn signal light housing attach point. Tell me about your front fender, what is it? Trimmed stock? I'd read what others had done and bought a NOS Shadow Ace 1100 front fender and VTX 1300 fender brackets to modify for mounting. I'll go with original front and rear fender setup until  get the headlight working and get her inspected, licensed and a few miles on her aftef all the work bringing her back to life, then maybe this fall work on fenders.

All, I read about different solutions to this after switch replace or repair: Chet's Start Switch Safeguard https://web.archive.org/web/20110511130823/http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/circuits.html,  MarkT says "added a headlight controller to bypass that power choke point".

What relays? Part #'s? What headlight controller? Web link?

[h13man]

Smart Switch was the item made and sold by BonS who was a member here but he has retired from the business. I believe there are other variants of this but....

[WintrSol]

Since the Smart Switch (what I have) is no longer available, a good quality automotive relay will do. Don't go for those really cheap ones, as they don't stay closed over bumps, get the kind they actually use in autos for the horns.

[laketboy]

To update you gentlemen: Definitely the common start switch issue with the small copper 2 point contact welded down into it's slot on one side. I cleaned both sides of contacts and was able to get it back with a hacked spring (read somewhere that the spring for one of the Bic style BBQ lighters trigger was right diameter just a bit long, may try) together and while it doesn't spring out easily all the way from start, the HEADLIGHTS COME ON with it out and engine turns over with it in!!!!! YeeHaw! New switch arrived today, so will install new one along with suggested relay from Chet's Start Switch Safeguard info here: https://web.archive.org/web/20110511130823/http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/circuits.html

Thanks again for all the tips and info here!