Engine removal tutorial

[agrady1995]

I did something and now I need to drop the engine to finish it. Anyone have videos/procedures or tips? I have a couple PDF and wouldn't mind being sent or referred again to make sure I don't miss anything, but also thought you all might have advice. I'm hoping I can get it done over the weekend. Just need to take it halfway out (large alternator install) and so maybe there's a secret I don't know..

[Chrisj CMA]

I would imagine.....
Disconnect battery. Remove the drive train including the u- joint. Remove the air box. Transmission jack under the motor. Unbolt the engine mounts and remove the upper ones so you can lift the motor a couple inches that should give you enough room.

[Avanti]

So every time you need to do maintenance on your alternator you will need to remove your engine? 

[Ramie]

You realize you are now obligate to make us a tutorial new, with pictures.

[steveB (VRCC UK)]

Remove earth connection to battery. Remove exhausts. Unbolt intake manifolds. Drain coolant. Loose hose clip to thermostat and water pump. Remove tank. Unbolt coil packs. Disconnect ignition switch, oil pressure switch, water temp switch, alternator connections, neutral switch, starter motor connection and earth strap. Remove the starter motor. Undo the clutch save cylinder. Lift the whole bike on your lift of choice (under the crankcase). Unbolt the side stand from the frame and tie it out of the way.
Lower (gently) the bike back onto its wheels (have a mate hold the bars). Remove the engine hangers and the condensate trap. Remove the engine bars and the lower frame rails. Continue lowering the (now) motor only to the floor. You and your mate can now push the motor out of the bike or if you're on your own pull the Valk off the motor. I've assumed you are leaving the carb set and airbox in the frame so just tie it to the top frame rails.  BTW all detailed in the workshop manual.

[gordonv]

Have you already done this, and I'm too late?

Larger alternator? Did you measure it and compare to the stock one?

Here is a post of mine,
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,107156.0.html

I've mentioned a few how to to get it in. I've even removed the longer than needed stud past the nut on the end of the alt. You need those wire/tubes out of the way, and rotate the alt to the lowest point of it.

Also waiting on the How To post on removing the engine, it was 12 years ago I wrecked my 1st IS.

[MarkT]

As I said when he asked me on this via PM - but now for other readers - I don't recommend planning to remove the engine for alternator maint.  In fact I don't recommend a larger alternator anymore either, as I did that on Deerslayer due to huge power use.  I installed a Compufire 90amp alternator made for the 1500 gold wing.  I had to cut the frame and part of the engine to squeeze it in. That created the need for more maintenance as oil would get in the alternator and I had to send it back for rebuild twice.  Not to mention you need a big battery as the alternator will cook it - so plan to Dremel out the battery box.

A better soln is to manage the power use better, to reduce it.  On Jade, I changed all the lights to LED's.  I don't run a compressor on Jade, as I have 444 shocks instead of 416 air shocks, and I installed a Wolo air horn instead of the huge fire truck air horn.  I still have heated clothing but it doesn't run on high, don't need that much heat.  My sound system is a total of 700 watts between the amp and the crossover/mixer but they drive only 2 speakers and being digital, they don't draw a lot of power unless they are powering near the top of their output which would blow my speakers - don't run them that loud.  I also don't have night lights all over Jade like I do Deerslayer.  However even those are all LED's.  The main thing is the compressor and the lights - ALL the lights on Jade (two pairs of spots and the headlight, markers, plus rear lights and instruments) draw less power than the single 130/90 Halogen headlight on Deerslayer.  Compressor only when blowing the horn - not filling tires or the suspension or a HUGE horn.

Planning to pull the engine to maintain the alternator is a bad plan.  That's an achille's heel on the Valk; alternator needs maintenance typically around 50k miles.  That's too often for a high-hassle repair if you are a high-miler.  Not to mention, it's not a good repair on a road trip.  Swapping out the alternator is not a biggy otherwise after you've done it a cpl times.  I carry a spare alternator as well as brushes.

[Avanti]

At rear tire change; drive train maintenance, wheel bearing inspection, brake system inspection (pads and fluid maintenance front and rear), clutch fluid maintenance, alternator pulled cleaned and inspected. I could go on but you get the point. No guarantee of course but riding worry free.