Changing pulleys and belts

[TrapperAH1G]

Need help asap!  Marks not lining up.  If I match the T1.2, the cam pullies are 4 teeth past where the UP marks should line up.  Wondering if this indicates the timing mod has been done? 

Bikes been running fine.

[gordonv]

Having no experience with the timing wheel (I think that is what you are referring to), it shouldn't affect the factory marks on the cam/drive gears, should it?

I would go by the manual, and have those marks where they are supposed to be. I feel you have a belt(s) out of alignment.

You have the Service Manual? http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html
Remove the plugs, less pressure on the pistons trying to turn the crank.

Maybe a search for trigger wheel install, and see how it's done, maybe the crank is rotated.

[luftkoph]

Not trying to be a smart ass, but did you try rotating the crank another 360 degrees

[6adan]

  Only rotate by hand until you get the marks to line up correctly. As said before I would not thank the timing wheel mod would change the aliment of the timing belts.

[John Schmidt]

And...note the arrow on the front of the pulley the crank bolt goes through. Looking at it from the front as the arrow indicates...you turn it counter clockwise, i.e., CCW. As for the timing mod, what you describe is not affected by installing an advanced trigger wheel. Once installed you still line up the timing marks; the T1.2 lines up with the raised arrowhead to the right of that pulley on the engine case, the cam pulleys should line up with the marks on the outer edge of the rear covers, and the word "UP" should be UP on each side.

[TrapperAH1G]

Pulled the plugs first thing.  Rotated several times CCW.  Yes, I have the manual.  Lining up T1.2 with the arrow on the engine, the UP marks are at about 2 and 8 instead of 3 and 9.

Read about the trigger wheel mod and decided that wouldn't do what I'm seeing.  Thought about it and decided to remove the belts and place each cam pulley in proper position by rotating clockwise.  Adjusted all valves.  Made sure #1 was TDC, then put the new belts on and and tried to crank.  Never sounded like it was firing, just cranking.  Removed the belts and went back to original setting.  Fired right up.  Let it idle for a bit, blipped the throttle easy, not idling as smoothly as before, but all ok.  Took for a short test ride.  Did fine, took it easy, then a couple of easy accelerations....all good.  Then decided, what the hell, rolled the throttle on and wow, I felt this bike was quick before but it felt like it just leaped forward. 

It idles a little rough but the acceleration change is phenomenal.

Now, been searching the net and found a reference on a Gold Wing forum to someone who experienced the same thing.  He was off 3 teeth on both sides.  He noticed there was an "inner" timing mark on the crankshaft pulley closer to the engine.  When he used that mark, all lined up correctly.  He stated that he pulled the crank pulley and lined up the "teat" as he called it on the back to the groove in the crankshaft and that corrected it. 

Guess I'm going back in tomorrow to see what he described.  I hope I've described all this so it's understandable.  Will be checking back in after I take another look.

[dizzy]

The title or your original post is 'changing pulleys and belts' so I'm not sure if this weirdness occurred with the old pulleys or the replacements?  Wondering if you checked timing marks before you did anything?  Did you have to make big changes when you adjusted the valve lash? 

[TrapperAH1G]

What I describe is what I found when I took the cover off and lined up the marks before starting any work.  All the exhaust valves were within specs.  Made small changes to each intake valve.

[dizzy]

You should check to see if the center pulley is accurately indexed to actual TDC on the piston.  Remove the right side valve cover and turn the engine over (the same way it normally turns when running) while watching the intake valve open and close on the front cylinder (#1).  The very next TDC on that cylinder is TDC compression stroke and both valves should be closed.  You can determine pretty accurately (in lieu of a dial indicator) exact TDC by sticking a small screwdriver down the spark hole and carefully turning the center pulley and using the rise of the handle on the screwdriver.  At that point, the t1,2 mark on the center pulley should line with the arrow on the case.  If they don't match, either the case or  pulley mark have to be wrong.       

[gordonv]

pictures are always very helpful too.

[RonW]

I second that. (pics)

[TrapperAH1G]

Been out of town and now it's too cold to work on my bike.  Spring, and the forecast is for snow tomorrow.

Question for wrenchers:  Is it possible to install the cam pulleys or the crankshaft pulleys wrong?  Unless you can do something like that, I don't see how the conditions I'm seeing can happen.  Also, is the crank pulley a single unit for both belts or separate pulleys stacked?

If the crank pulley is accurate at T1.2 and the cam pulleys are off (exactly the same), then the pulleys are installed wrong or the cams were installed wrong.

Thx

[Chrisj CMA]

Been out of town and now it's too cold to work on my bike.  Spring, and the forecast is for snow tomorrow.

Question for wrenchers:  Is it possible to install the cam pulleys or the crankshaft pulleys wrong?  Unless you can do something like that, I don't see how the conditions I'm seeing can happen.  Also, is the crank pulley a single unit for both belts or separate pulleys stacked?

If the crank pulley is accurate at T1.2 and the cam pulleys are off (exactly the same), then the pulleys are installed wrong or the cams were installed wrong.

Thx

I feel it’s more likely that the technique used to install the belts produced a situation where the cams are off a tooth or so. I would try to achieve alignment with belt re installation and then verify TDC before removing any pulleys.

[RonW]

Also, is the crank pulley a single unit for both belts or separate pulleys stacked?

The pulleys are separate items #8. They're aligned via a keyway. The discs with the markings (9,10) have an alignment dimple on the obverse side to clock them correctly.
I don't think anybody would not observe that step, but whatever.




Btw, this bolt requires sealant, per manual. Some members disagree.

[Speedy Coop]

Is number 9 installed on the crank properly? I was working on engine that somebody had taken it off and reinstalled improperly. Luckily I figured out! The crank bolt looked a little marked up for a low mileage engine so I spun it out and saw the alignment dimple was flatten out. 

[TrapperAH1G]

Had a friend come over and we worked on the bike again.  We place #1 cyl. at TDC and made sure both valves were closed.  None of the pulleys lined up like they should.  But, using that as a base line, we did the same to all the cylinders.  While doing this, I used a permanent marker and made notes where each cyl. was at TDC.  Adjusted all the valves during this process. 

My bike has been somewhat "slow" to start when I crank it.  Even warm it hasn't started right away.  Now, after the work, I hit the start switch and it starts almost instantly.  Still idles a little rough but better than it was.  Also still hauls booty when I rack the throttle.  So, gonna leave it alone. 

Plugs look like it may be running a little lean.  Suggestions on that?

Thx for all the guidance and info.

[RonW]

Something's just not right with this. If you get around to posting a pic, perhaps somebody can figure it out.