High Output Alternator and Engine Removal Update

[agrady1995]

TL;DR: high output alternator fits in the valk easily, and Rick's Motorsport Electrics sells it ready to install, thanks to me. Comes with one year warranty, cheaper than OEM, MADE IN USA (manufactured in Taiwan)

For those who have read my last posts on the VRCC, FB, MeWe, and for those I've talked to (mark T, Greg, David S)  you are aware I was out of transportation for about a week as my IS alternator failed me at 96k miles.

I bought a high output goldwing alternator from rick's motorsport Electrics, and didn't realize "it wouldn't fit" because of the size, and frame constraints. Especially after reading Mark T' s post here:
http://horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Compufire/compufire.html

Not being persuaded by his recommendation of NOT going through with it, and still wanting the alternator, I spent a few hours with my bike, trying like a kid to get a round peg in a square hole.

With those of us who have memory of the game, on occasion you can get some pegs to fit in the "wrong" spot. Well, with about 45 min of time I finagled it into place! I removed the capicator on the back, and since it was a "goldwing" alternator I did have to clock it 90 degrees.

The people at Rick's electrics motorsports make a high quality, high output alternator and it fits all gl1500 engines, but did not include the Valkyrie in their parts list. They come with a one year warranty as well, and are about 100 cheaper than OEM.


After contacting Rick's electrics and explaining myself,they offered to keep my warranty after clocking the alternator, and noted it in my account. I also provided them pictures and description of how I clocked it, and installed it. THEY HAVE A PRE CLOCKED VERSION NOW FOR SALE ON THEIR WEBSITE.

https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/New-OEM-Style-Honda-Alternator-Assembly-31_102

I hope this write up was sufficient. If you have any follow up questions please let me know!

P.S. I ordered this item from them directly, and would highly recommend you do the same. I had initially ordered from a third party, and it showed up physically broken, with no packaging, and a literal hole in the box it fell out of. I'll email the pictures to you if you message me. The one from Rick's was very well packaged with foam peanuts.

[MarkT]

Your alt. failure at 96k miles is approx twice the often reported miles to failure on Valkyries.  You got pretty good service on that one.

Good you found an alternator that fits like the OEM - rather than  the much bigger Compufire.  That wasn't available 20 years ago.  You will still need to install a bigger battery.

What I concluded, after repeated problems not just with the install but the service life of the Compufire 90 amp alternator, was  a better soln to the power load vs. supply relationship on the bike, is to reduce the load.  That leaves one with easy-to-source repairs/replacements down the road.  I reduced the load on Jade, my 97 Tourer and retained the OEM alternator.  And carry a spare on road trips.  As well as brushes to help others.  Brushes are the recurrent failure part.  Load reduced largely by changing all lights to LED's - including the non-OEM four spots.  All the lights on Jade draw less power than the main headlight on high beam, on Deerslayer.  The bike also has a sound system with speakers and two amps, one is a mixer/pre-amp, their power totals 700w but that load is never approached as they are digital and aren't run  near full power.  Also heated clothing support, electric controls & fuel pump for the belly tank (runs only 9 minutes to refill the main), some small loads like GPS, radar, cell phone power, cruise control, some extra LED lights.  I did blow out the alternator on the return from Roanoke Inzane at about 50k miles.  That was before replacing all the tungsten lights with LED's.  I knew it happened as I monitor the volts via the Passport Escort and it had dropped to 11v.  So I shut down the headlights and audio and made it the last 100 miles on battery power.

BTW, Deerslayer, the 98 Std with the Compufire, I had set up with big loads including a 130/90w headlight, 2 AC landing lights, a big compressor and fire truck horn with air suspension, heated clothing, powerful analog audio system.  Lights would dim at engine idle, before the Compufire install.  The Compufire boiled out a new OEM battery; had to go to a big GW battery.  Other problems required the alt to be rebuilt twice.

With these experiences I recommended reducing the load, not increasing the alt output.  Not surprised you ignored my advice - it's a free country and you were obviously determined to go that way. I still say, anyone with this decision, the better one is reduce the load.  If not, good luck fixing alternator problems on the road.  You won't find parts locally.  Maybe should haul your spare parts yourself.  BTW I do that even with OEM alt. as it's a known failure part.  Not a problem, I've taken to pulling a tagalong trailer anyway - like to bring a lot of stuff, tools & parts to help friends as well as souvenirs, clothes, the cooler for ice water, etc.  I even bring a jack and some of my products if I'm setting up a booth.  I don't ride on the edge of the performance envelope anyhow and the tagalong trails so well, it has little to no effect except braking & accelerating, just allow more space.  I also have a swivel hitch so I can still drag pegs in the twisties if I want to.

[Bagger John - #3785]

I've done or am in process of doing what Mark suggested - changing all incandescents on my Valks to LEDs.

Challenge will be with the I/S. I'd like to use a true projector headlamp assembly - not just LED replacement bulbs. And the Hondaline driving lights are another problem I have to work out but may have found a solution to that too.

One of my Concours 14s is also getting the full LED treatment and I'll probably do the other one at some point. Ditto any future Valks I acquire.

[luftkoph]

Isn’t the Connie 14 a permanent magnet charging system, unlike the Connie 10 or the Valkyrie which are excited field alternators?

[MarkT]

I've done or am in process of doing what Mark suggested - changing all incandescents on my Valks to LEDs.

Challenge will be with the I/S. I'd like to use a true projector headlamp assembly - not just LED replacement bulbs. And the Hondaline driving lights are another problem I have to work out but may have found a solution to that too.

One of my Concours 14s is also getting the full LED treatment and I'll probably do the other one at some point. Ditto any future Valks I acquire.

On the headlight, yeah the OEM was replaced with an Eagle Lights Infinity fixture rather than just a LED bulb - which is a compromise as the halogen bulb reflector is not optimum for the LED emitter.  Though some companies try to adjust the emitter to be positioned correctly at the focus point, it doesn't quite work optimally.  FYI , on Deerslayer the 130 watt Halogen high beam was incredibly bright - lit up the road CLEARLY for a measured half mile.  I could easily see brown deer crossing the road at great distance, never overdrive the lights even at speed in deer country - which is everywhere here.
The Infinity light - which Josh calls The Dragon's Eye - is not as bright as the 130/90 Halogen, but it's considerably better than the OEM 60/55 and when paired with spots with the right LED bulbs in Halogen type reflectors, there's more than enough light for wildlife safety.  As well as visibility to texting bimbos.  I even run another pair of LED lights on the crash bars for a total of 5 forward lights - for the latter.

The Eagle Lights Infinity has a nice look IMHO - not the kludgy look of multiple emitters in an OEM headlight bucket.  That was my decider - want a good look too.