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Author Topic: Trailering & Tie-down points  (Read 1393 times)
RaginTxn
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Posts: 37


Houston, TX


« on: June 02, 2022, 09:33:58 AM »

OK - so I read up a bit on old posts and just want to clarify a bit. I trailered my valk last year to and from WY, and ended up tightening too much cause my seals started leaking once I got back. Just had the forks fully serviced and am now super paranoid about how to tie down the valk. What led to the over tightening was on the way back in a uhaul trailer, the big popped out of the "choke" - luckily didn't tip over, but freaked out and probably over tightened.

So question 1) (probably most "controversial") - where do y'all tie down at for the front (I'm good on the back)? Engine Guards? lower triple? combination? 2) if the trailer has a proper "locking" wheel choke, does this allow you to tie off better at one point or another where you don't have to compress the front springs (i.e. engine guards)?

thanks in advance for the advice/help
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-RaginTxn

02 Valkyrie "Tourer"
04 919 (silvers are the fastest)
Rams
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Posts: 16188


So many colors to choose from yet so few stand out

Covington, TN


« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2022, 10:04:04 AM »

You're correct about most folks having different methods and tie down points.
Here's what I do:

I always carry more tie downs than I think I'll need.  So, if I have those extras with me, I use the crash bars first and then use another set at the triple trees.   One needs to remember that is not using a secured chock that the tires can slide or slip sideways on the floor of the trailer.   I don't use a chock, my trailer has a channel the tires fit into that keeps them from sliding to either side but, if not for that (and no secured chock), then I'd be strapping the front wheel to the front of the trailer.  That puts a total of four on the front end.   Is that overkill, I certainly hope so.   Although, I have just used the crash bars.   But, I don't strap the bike down more than just less than half way compression.   I don't want to blow the seals (just installed) either.  Wink

I prefer to always use tie down points that have rounded surfaces and if they don't, use a sling or other protection for the strap and tie down point.   Have only had one bike (almost) get away from me once secured to the trailer and that was when a tie down broke.  That's why I use four up front.

Use what you can of my method and good luck.   It works for me.

Rams
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VRCC# 29981
Learning the majority of life's lessons the hard way.

Every trip is an adventure, enjoy it while it lasts.
hubcapsc
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Posts: 16775


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2022, 10:21:51 AM »

When I rode 230 lb dirt bikes I liked to use the handlebars.

On a heavy street bike, there's a lot of stuff on the handlebars
that might get in the way. It is best to put the tie-downs at
one particular place on the handlebars, if you put the tie-down
at some place on the bars that would induce a torque your
handlebars might spin in the riser clamps causing your bike to fall...

The crash bars and a trailer tie down point that gives you
a 45 degree angle on the strap is good for a Valkyrie.

You just need be tight enough that the suspension won't
squish down over a bump enough to make the tiedown
come loose. Compressing the forks "all the way" or "as
much as you can" is too much...

-Mike
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Sorcerer
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Posts: 550

Brooklyn Center MN.


« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2022, 08:59:24 PM »

A friend of mine would use a bungee, generally the black rubber kind, and hook them to the Eye let’s on each end of the tie down. He wouldn’t collapse the front forks. The rubber bungee would not allow a tie down hook to be thrown off.
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RaginTxn
Member
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Posts: 37


Houston, TX


« Reply #4 on: June 03, 2022, 08:13:44 AM »

thank you all for the pointers and the help on understanding the valk a bit better. much appreciated!! hopefully too this is a more "updated recent" search/topic for others to benefit  Smiley

Thanks again!
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-RaginTxn

02 Valkyrie "Tourer"
04 919 (silvers are the fastest)
da prez
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Posts: 4357

. Rhinelander Wi. Island Lake Il.


« Reply #5 on: June 04, 2022, 05:39:30 AM »

  I have my own trailer and installed a removable tire chock.  I direct strap the front wheel in the chock and then use the crash bars for the main tie down. Handle bars as secondary.  Be sure to secure the rear with tie downs .  The bike will sway .  Also , purchase GOOD primary tie downs.

                                              da prez
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..
Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #6 on: June 04, 2022, 06:00:28 AM »

NOT on the kick/side stand!!!
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hubcapsc
Member
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Posts: 16775


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #7 on: June 04, 2022, 07:01:46 AM »


Also , purchase GOOD primary tie downs.

I have numerous sets of those cheap tiedowns that
look like Ancras from the big-box store that I use for various
things, keep in my truck, etc...

But I got a REAL set of nice ancras to haul my 1500 back
from Pennsylvania when I bought it.

They hang safely in my shed and aren't used for other things.
I only remember hauling a bike one other time since then :-) ...

-Mike
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gordonv
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Posts: 5760


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #8 on: June 07, 2022, 04:38:28 PM »

I believe others may have already replied well enough already, but there is a post somewhere, either youtube or goldwingdocs.com which shows how to tie down a GW. Same basic bike, done the say way. When I read/watched it, I felt all their points where very logical and made sense.

maybe this on?
https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=14030
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

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