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MarkT Exhaust
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Author Topic: it started as a dribble.....  (Read 3053 times)
xsexcess
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Posts: 13


« on: July 03, 2022, 06:57:38 PM »

And now it's definitely a rapid drip. I pulled the air cleaner box and temporarily connected a fuel line, definitely leaking from the fuel transfer tube between two carbs on my 2000 standard.  You can spin the tube with your fingers it's so loose. Clearly needs o-rings. Looking for the thoughts of the community here. There are multiple options WRT refurbish parts kits on the net.  And there's the send the rack off for a total rebuild option. There doesn't seem any other problems with the carbs, bike runs well.  Going to all the trouble to pull the carbs out it seems wise to replace as many soft parts as possible while it's apart. Planning to keep the bike, or perhaps sell to a friend who's asked about it (don't want to dump a problem on a friend).  With the age of these bikes, should I replace all the o-rings with viton and call it good?  Go full monty and order all the soft parts, or send it off. I'm a fairly experienced mechanic with small intricate devices. 

Now I'm wondering how long until my Interstate starts doing the same thing. 

Thanks,  Hal
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f-Stop
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Posts: 1810


'98 Standard named Hildr

Driftwood, Texas


« Reply #1 on: July 04, 2022, 05:30:07 AM »

Howdy Hal!

I'd say that going with someone like Valkyrie Carbs and Custom for a carb exchange is not a bad idea at all.  For me, though, I'd do it myself.  Maybe it's because I'm not an experienced mechanic that I see the process as more of a challenge than a task.  Plus, once you've removed the carb set you've already done something like 60% of the work.  Right?

If you do decide to fix the fuel rail yourself I would suggest giving the carbs a good cleaning.  (They are over 20 years old.)  The carbs on these bikes are really very simple.  The floats are not even adjustable.  The only question would be synching and getting the fuel mixture right.  I used a Digi-sync which made those procedures a breeze.

Anyway, good luck!

Charlie
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Had my blinker on across three states!
da prez
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. Rhinelander Wi. Island Lake Il.


« Reply #2 on: July 04, 2022, 07:22:22 AM »

If you have one leak , do a total rebuild.
 It does not get better.

                   da prez
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DIGGER
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« Reply #3 on: July 05, 2022, 07:56:16 AM »

just curious.....iffin ya send the whole rack off for a rebuild what would it cost?
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Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #4 on: July 05, 2022, 08:20:32 AM »

Re: it started as a dribble.....

I thought this was going to be a peeing thread.    Grin
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98valk
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Posts: 13439


South Jersey


« Reply #5 on: July 05, 2022, 06:14:23 PM »

tighten the end nuts of the two connecting rods that go through the carb banks holding them together.
they get loose overtime and allow connections btwn the carbs to leak. in 72k miles I've had to tighten them twice. it only took like a 1/16th of a turn.
the oem o-rings are Buna-N aka Nitrile and they can be different formulations. it seems honda used a formula for better chemical resistance but allows them not to be fast reacting to big temp changes. the last time, the one side leaked on mine was a big temp change in the winter time. did little turn on nuts leak stopped. 5k more miles and still zero leaks. I also put some clear silicone on the exposed threads.

highly unlikely they need to be pulled and rebuilt.
« Last Edit: July 11, 2022, 02:10:39 PM by 98valk » Logged

1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

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xsexcess
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Posts: 13


« Reply #6 on: July 11, 2022, 10:30:51 AM »

Awesome info on tightening the rods....I will try that.  A solution that needs to be put in archive somewhere.  Thank You....Hal
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