pais
Member
Posts: 723
One more turn should do it!
Kent, Ohio
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« on: July 16, 2022, 04:06:52 PM » |
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 I am in the midst of a tire change , spline lube etc. As I was going through the process as can be seen in the pic. The lower outside bolt turned out rather than just the nut loosening and coming off. How big a deal is this? I am thinking once I get the nut loosened and workable. I can turn the bolt back in by stacking two nuts on the bolt? All 4 nuts were very tight. 3 of them came off and this one :'( |
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Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it!  |
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16769
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #1 on: July 16, 2022, 04:11:42 PM » |
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I think it is great when a stud comes out without breaking  ... Anywho... if you can't get the nut off without messing the nut and the stud up, just get new ones. I guess someone else put the four nuts on so tight? Or it has been a long time since they've been off? -Mike |
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pais
Member
Posts: 723
One more turn should do it!
Kent, Ohio
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« Reply #2 on: July 16, 2022, 04:34:09 PM » |
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Hub, you are correct when you say, " it is great when a stud comes out without breaking." Great point! I have owned the bike for 10 years now. The last service was done by someone else. This is the 3rd tire change / service for the bike, during those 10 years. |
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Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it! |
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mello dude
Member
Posts: 944
Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole
Dayton Ohio
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« Reply #3 on: July 16, 2022, 05:18:37 PM » |
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Not a big deal, but suggest you get a new stud, do the double nut thing, use red locktite and seat the stud solid like factory.....why? So when you are putting it back together, you are ensuring final torque is on the exposed threads and not on the stud threads in the drive case.......I did similar on mine.....
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* There's someone in my head, but it's not me.......
* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
* There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius.....
* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
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RonW
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« Reply #4 on: July 16, 2022, 05:21:29 PM » |
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I am thinking once I get the nut loosened and workable. I can turn the bolt back in by stacking two nuts on the bolt?
agreed, take the nut off the stud, then reinstall the stud back to the original position. There's a similar situation when removing the nuts for the exhaust header. The exhaust nut gets seized to its stud and the stud unscrews when you turn the exhaust nut. In that situation you can leave the seized nut on the stud and install them as as a unit as if they were a bolt. But the torque for the exhaust nut is like 7ft-lbs or sumpthing. You don't want to do the 47-ft lbs torque per manual on the final drive stud (steel) since it's steel into aluminum (pumpkin) connection and the possibility of stripping or deforming the aluminum internal treads. Whereas, if the final drive nut screws onto a stationary stud, it's a metal to metal torque.
What's the correct torque for the stud then? Probably a tad over 47-ft lbs or take a reading on the studs that remained in place. Other members might chime in on that.
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« Last Edit: July 16, 2022, 05:30:11 PM by RonW »
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
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mello dude
Member
Posts: 944
Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole
Dayton Ohio
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« Reply #5 on: July 16, 2022, 06:10:49 PM » |
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I am thinking once I get the nut loosened and workable. I can turn the bolt back in by stacking two nuts on the bolt?
agreed, take the nut off the stud, then reinstall the stud back to the original position. There's a similar situation when removing the nuts for the exhaust header. The exhaust nut gets seized to its stud and the stud unscrews when you turn the exhaust nut. In that situation you can leave the seized nut on the stud and install them as as a unit as if they were a bolt. But the torque for the exhaust nut is like 7ft-lbs or sumpthing. You don't want to do the 47-ft lbs torque per manual on the final drive stud (steel) since it's steel into aluminum (pumpkin) connection and the possibility of stripping or deforming the aluminum internal treads. Whereas, if the final drive nut screws onto a stationary stud, it's a metal to metal torque.
What's the correct torque for the stud then? Probably a tad over 47-ft lbs or take a reading on the studs that remained in place. Other members might chime in on that.
Essentially what I said, but Ron did a far better explanation...  |
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* There's someone in my head, but it's not me.......
* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
* There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius.....
* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #6 on: July 17, 2022, 05:02:54 AM » |
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Yes to double nuts yes to red lock tite. No to 47lbs.
The torque setting on the stud is irrelevant. Just nice and tight. If you just must use a torque wrench I’d be between 20 and 30lb
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« Last Edit: August 23, 2022, 05:26:11 AM by Chrisj CMA »
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da prez
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« Reply #7 on: July 17, 2022, 05:28:27 AM » |
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My two cents worth. Run a tap in the hole to clean out all the old locktite. Putting the stud back in will push the old locktite to the bottom and it may not seat. I tap , blow out , brake clean and blow out again. Wire wheel the stud after removing the nut. I would reuse the stud. Proper assembly will make the next job easier.
da prez
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pais
Member
Posts: 723
One more turn should do it!
Kent, Ohio
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« Reply #8 on: July 17, 2022, 07:09:52 AM » |
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Thank you for all the info!
Looking like rain today so I will be able to work on it for awhile.
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Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it! |
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mello dude
Member
Posts: 944
Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole
Dayton Ohio
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« Reply #9 on: July 17, 2022, 12:30:39 PM » |
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My two cents worth. Run a tap in the hole to clean out all the old locktite. Putting the stud back in will push the old locktite to the bottom and it may not seat. I tap , blow out , brake clean and blow out again. Wire wheel the stud after removing the nut. I would reuse the stud. Proper assembly will make the next job easier.
da prez
I like the thread clean out idea....except I think I would use a thread chaser tool instead of a tap so I'm not cutting new metal in the pumpkin...I use these a lot when replacing bolts/studs...(example: replacing rotors on a wheel)....I bought the chaser set on Amazon.... Btw....great stuff guys! |
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« Last Edit: July 17, 2022, 12:37:09 PM by mello dude »
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* There's someone in my head, but it's not me.......
* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
* There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius.....
* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
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Pluggy
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« Reply #10 on: July 17, 2022, 03:52:25 PM » |
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The threaded holes in that casting are the "close fit" thread size. Running a standard tap in there will open the hole and eliminate this useful feature. A new M10-1.25 bolt going in and out of the hole should be like your thread chaser. Flushing the hole with brake cleaner will likely lift out some dirt or debris. Cleaning the hole and installing a new stud and nut is the correct rerpair and not expensive (compared to the price of that new tire).
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da prez
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« Reply #11 on: July 29, 2022, 02:54:44 PM » |
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I do not know how to post photos yet. If you take a bolt and use a hacksaw on the first three or four threads perpendicular to the bolt. You now have a thread chaser.
da prez
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #12 on: July 29, 2022, 03:08:43 PM » |
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My experience hacksawing a good bolt is...... you have a shorter ruined bolt.  |
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pais
Member
Posts: 723
One more turn should do it!
Kent, Ohio
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« Reply #13 on: July 30, 2022, 04:10:14 AM » |
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New stud installed. All is good!
Thanks for all the help guys.
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Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it! |
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Bagger John - #3785
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« Reply #14 on: July 30, 2022, 06:12:57 AM » |
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I like the thread clean out idea....except I think I would use a thread chaser tool instead of a tap so I'm not cutting new metal in the pumpkin...I use these a lot when replacing bolts/studs...(example: replacing rotors on a wheel)....I bought the chaser set on Amazon....
This board needs a "Like" button. The C14's front motor mount bolt holes are also "close fit". I learned this the hard way on one, but was able to rectify my sins on the other by getting a set of thread chasers. (Yes, I'm always looking for excuses to buy tools...  ) |
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