Starter switch question.

[Ron in Buffalo]

My earlier thread “won’t start”. I got my starter switch. I look in my clymers manual to see how to replace the switch(clam shell). I did not find anything. I used the search engine here and google could not find what I’m looking for so I come here again.  Can someone let how to change the clam shell and route the throttle cables.  Thanks.

[Chrisj CMA]

The best way to disconnect the throttle cables is to dismount the handlebars. Put a thick pad on the rack do you don’t dent it. With the bars off the risers tics move them to give maximum slack. The electrical connections are inside the headlight bucket. It’s not hard one you figure the cables

[Ron in Buffalo]

Chris thank you.

[RonW]

Just my five cents, but it's simpler to swap out the bad push button (and white box). The rest can be installed later instead of struggling with those throttle cables.

[hubcapsc]

Loosen the top clamp for the handlebars, don't let the handlebars slip down
in the process and dent your tank, slide the handlebars over to the left and
you'll have plenty of slack in the throttle cables to mess with them.

Here's some routing diagrams from the manual...

[RonW]

I think, turn the handlebars to the right, too, if you need more slack for the throttle cables.

[rug_burn]

How about a picture of what yours looks like?
     I've had to fix mine a couple times now, but never replaced it in 185k miles.. 
Usually this amounted to freeing-up that little floating copper contact bar, and cleaning the contacts on that and in that cast black plastic body where the wires are soldered. 
   I think next time I'll have to file the plastic of the body flat with the contacts, which seem just a lillte recessed now, but show no pitting or erosion.   

[RonW]

"and cleaning the contacts in that cast black plastic body where the wires are soldered. I think next time I'll have to file the plastic
of the body flat with the contacts, which seem just a lillte recessed now,"

Good idea, after 20 years there should be some wear and tear on the contacts.

Just for conversation. That black lid is I think polycarbonate which is much more heat resistant than the nylon material used for the push button. If the push button was polycarbonate, the copper bridge would never sink into the substrate. Nylon is used because it's self-lubricating since the push button gets pushed in and out and I've never seen the nylon wear out on a push button. The ideal push button would have a polycarbonate insert under the copper bridge (dashed rectangle). Again, just for conversation.

[Gregory Scott 16248]

Just my five cents, but it's simpler to swap out the bad push button (and white box). The rest can be installed later instead of struggling with those throttle cables.





If take the push button switch apart keep an eye on the spring. It likes to disappear!
You can see it in the picture with the red square.

[RonW]

I use a piece of tape and felt pen to mark the existing position of the handlebars. I use to felt pen the handlebar without the tape, but the mark always rubbed off.

[Ron in Buffalo]

Thanks everyone- I got it back together. I appreciate everyone’s replies. I did put the new clam shell on. Like most endeavors with electrical I am apprehensive but it was a straight forward procedure.