A little electrical help

[valkmc]

Trying to get the Valk back together after I was rear ended. I assume that the two greens coming out of the likes go right and left. Since there are six wires out of the lights and only 5 out of the harness that the green from  license light

doubles up on one of the greens out of the harness. That leaves a blue, brown and orange. Blue to the blue from the license plate  light. CanI just hook brown from the harness to brown from the lights and orange to orange?

Does it matter which green two greens I double up.

[Bagger John - #3785]

Have a copy of the wiring diagram in the Service Manual? It should show the relationship for all those.

[valkmc]

Have a copy of the wiring diagram in the Service Manual? It should show the relationship for all those.

Thanks I-have a digital Clymer but not much help !

[bassman]

Anything here help?     

https://mega.nz/file/EgMilRQR#qwBVH4H12_mxGSYPaWEt_BtYjust3pa8o8NkEWnDFlE

[Ramie]

Green is ground so it doesn't matter.

[RonW]

Double up the turn signal grounds.

[valkmc]

Thanks everyone. I got them working and am currently putting the the bottom half of the rear fender back on.

[..]

Anything here help?     

https://mega.nz/file/EgMilRQR#qwBVH4H12_mxGSYPaWEt_BtYjust3pa8o8NkEWnDFlE

That's definitely one everyone should bookmark.

[RonW]

Btw, Ramie was also right, ground is ground.


"I got them working and am currently putting the the bottom half of the rear fender back on."

if you get trouble aligning the bolt for the nut cage, try wiggling the rear fender at Spot A.






Re: installing the turn signal thingie back on the rear fender. I tighten Screw 26 (orange arrow) before tightening down the fender bolts in that order. Otherwise, the fender bolts compress the rubber gasket in such a way that Hatch 16 is kept from fully seating. This throws off the alignment of Screw 26 to it's threaded inserts (A). Doesn't take much to tear the threaded inserts out of it's 20 year old plastic bosses. Recap, attach Hatch 16 to Lower Half 15, then tighten them as a unit to the rear fender with the fender bolts.

Having said all that, you do usually follow this order anyway. But it's when for example you remove the hatch to work on the turnsignals, it's worth your while to loosen the fender bolts before removing the hatch so it can be reinstalled in the proper order.





This is the edge that'll get hung up on the rubber gasket preventing the hatch from seating properly. The rubber gasket doesn't have enough give.



Perhaps, this graphic does a better job at explaining the theory. The fender bolts pull only the Bottom Half 15 tight to the fender. Thusly it's better to line up the hatch to the bottom half and screw them together before tightening down the fender bolts. Again, in that order. Might be just my bike, but I don't think so.

[The emperor has no clothes]

RonW, I must commend you on your detail of such help. Your ability to link, highlight, add to schematics and pics, etc. is top notch ! 

[RonW]

Thanks, emperor. Well, I gave up trying to explain things in 50 paragraphs or more a while back already. Figured pics are the way to go mainly because detail is so much easier to articulate. And people are less likely to get things mixed up too vrs. speedreading text.

[valkmc]

RonW, I must commend you on your detail of such help. Your ability to link, highlight, add to schematics and pics, etc. is top notch ! 

I agree. I had a heck of a time getting one of the rear fender bolts to line up. Pushing on the fender in the spot RonW shows in his post made the bolt pop right in!

[RP#62]

Anything here help?     

https://mega.nz/file/EgMilRQR#qwBVH4H12_mxGSYPaWEt_BtYjust3pa8o8NkEWnDFlE

That's definitely one everyone should bookmark.

I never knew anyone had colorized these.  I drew them up about 20 years ago and had Chet (Rattlebars) post them on his site.  Glad to see they're still of use.

-RP

[Mooskee]

Anything here help?     

https://mega.nz/file/EgMilRQR#qwBVH4H12_mxGSYPaWEt_BtYjust3pa8o8NkEWnDFlE

That's definitely one everyone should bookmark.

I never knew anyone had colorized these.  I drew them up about 20 years ago and had Chet (Rattlebars) post them on his site.  Glad to see they're still of use.

-RP

Thanks for drawing those up. They are by far the best set of schematics for our bikes. I always thought they were drawn by Chet. Am I correct in thinking they are public domain?

[RP#62]

Anything here help?     

https://mega.nz/file/EgMilRQR#qwBVH4H12_mxGSYPaWEt_BtYjust3pa8o8NkEWnDFlE

That's definitely one everyone should bookmark.

I never knew anyone had colorized these.  I drew them up about 20 years ago and had Chet (Rattlebars) post them on his site.  Glad to see they're still of use.

-RP

Thanks for drawing those up. They are by far the best set of schematics for our bikes. I always thought they were drawn by Chet. Am I correct in thinking they are public domain?

Yes indeed, they're for the Valkyrie community.  One of my jobs back in the day was drawing aircraft wiring diagrams for large commercial fleets, based on the engineering documents.  Mine lean towards the Boeing style as I did the Boeing fleets more than anything else.

-RP

[baldo]

Yes indeed, they're for the Valkyrie community.  One of my jobs back in the day was drawing aircraft wiring diagrams for large commercial fleets, based on the engineering documents.  Mine lean towards the Boeing style as I did the Boeing fleets more than anything else.

-RP

Mmmmmm....Boeing.

[Mooskee]

I have used them extensively and never found an error. Excellent work.

[RonW]

I never knew anyone had colorized these.  I drew them up about 20 years ago and had Chet (Rattlebars) post them on his site.  Glad to see they're still of use.

-RP

Your 20 year old schematic has increased exponentially in value. Not sure if the General Notes was yours or Rattlebars, or Rattlebars added to it, but notes like Tip 7 in the General Notes specifies the location of a given component, awesome, (pic. below) vrs. the bare bones factory schematic.

I don't know what kind software you had access to 20 years ago, but even by today's software, it's an incredible feat drafting out the schematics. Then proofreading jumping back and forth to the factory schematics which would wear out most people's eyeballs. (by Mooskee's account Post 16 above, there's no errors.)

If anybody hasn't downloaded the link yet I recommend they do so because try with all your might finding it later.

Anyways, it was rattlebars that colorized the wiring on your schematic?  

[RP#62]

Thanks guys.  I put the notes on so you'd know were I was going with the drawings.  I originally did these in PowerPoint (then converted them to pdf's).  Probably not the best for this, but its what I had at the time.  I don't know who colorized them, in fact, I didn't know they were colorized until this post.  The factory diagram drove me crazy. It shows all the circuits, but when you're troubleshooting, you don't want to have to pick out one system from the whole bloody thing.

-RP

[RonW]

The factory diagram drove me crazy. It shows all the circuits, but when you're troubleshooting,

• you don't want to have to pick out one system from the whole bloody thing.

-RP

7 isolated circuits by my count!! Again, the component's location is invaluable (orange rectangle).