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Author Topic: Progressive fork springs Part nos.  (Read 1401 times)
Knapdog
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*****
Posts: 312


South Wales, UK


« on: October 18, 2022, 09:29:00 AM »

Just curious as to why there appears to be two part numbers for the Valkyrie Progressive fork springs.

One is 11-1513

....and the other I've found sdvertised (there may be more) is DS222023.

If I'm going to get a set, I want to be sure I order the right ones.
Any thoughts?
I've recently met up with a local Valkyrie owner (Pete) who told me that they'd made a world of difference (fitted by SteveB VRCC..UK).
Just thought I'd buy them first before asking if you'd kindly fit them, Steve.  Roll Eyes
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'98 Honda Valkyrie Tourer⁸
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sandy
Member
*****
Posts: 5376


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #1 on: October 18, 2022, 02:42:53 PM »

Since you live in the UK, look into Hyper Pros made a few miles away on your mainland. Netherlands I believe. I have them in my valk and also had them in my ‘05 Wing. Love them.
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..
Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #2 on: October 19, 2022, 06:34:40 AM »

The following is from my memory - not always 100%

Something I wrote up a long time ago.

Cover tank etc with towels/rags

Bike on lift front wheel high enough to get a small jack under
Undo pinch bolts at fork caps
Loosen fork caps until completely unthreaded
Raise front wheel so forks compress completely

Remove right front fork cap. Have to try and grip the flat sided-round sided nut under the right fork cap. 
Can't use a wrench cause there are a couple of small flange parts sticking out. Hold this in place and undo fork cap.
Count threads exposed
Undo flat sided-round sided nut about half way up the threaded portion
Thread bolt you have found in your workshop into hole
Make sure it's a good fit
Remove and wrap a coat hanger around it
Screw back in
Using a flat bladed screwdriver prise the flat sided-round sided nut away from the tube below to remove collar
Remove collar that has a slot
Slide the shiny bit up over your bolt and coat hanger

Let front wheel jack down

Now use another coat hanger with a slight hook on the end and fish down in the fork tube and remove the spring. SLOWLY to let the oil drain off. This is why you covered up in the beginning with towels/rags
Slide new spring back over

Raise front wheel back up

Slide shiny bit back over wire and bolt
Replace collar
Remove bolt you have found in your workshop and turn flat sided-round sided nut down until you get to the amount of threads you counted earlier

Left fork

Insert special tool and undo completely remove
Hook out fork spring SLOWLY to let oil drain off. Washer comes with it.
Insert new spring AND then washer
Now using special tool screw part back on.
Needs 2 people cause you are pushing against the spring

Lower front wheel

Wait a couple of minutes for oil to drain down inside tube and then measure from top of fork tube. I did it with a bit of wood dowel as a dipstick. Adjust oil level as needed

Screw on fork caps. Tighten pinch bolts. Bounce forks a couple of times

Go for a short SLOW ride and test forks.

If OK drink beer.

If not OK I can't be held responsible

https://postimg.cc/gallery/7ZQt2pj
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h13man
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Posts: 1745


To everything there is an exception.

Indiana NW Central Flatlands


« Reply #3 on: October 19, 2022, 06:45:22 AM »

I changed to #80 Racetech and the springs were the same. Now that being said the forks are different internally component wise and do take different amount of oil in each leg.
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