I want to desmog my Califorina Valkyrie.

[sidecarwilliam]

I know much as been discussed on this site but I am left with Questions as the Redeye Desmog Kit is no longer available.

After I remove the tank and airbox and tear out all the vacuum lines and plug all the vacuum tubes (6) at the carbs and throw away the PAIR box what should be left?  I use the other Honda petcock w/o the vacuum shut off.  Should I have any vacuum lines left when I am done.
I know I need to plug the airbox but is there anything else I need to know or do?
Any help will help.
Thanks,
bill.

[da prez]

 14mm freeze plugs , (N O T 9/16). Four are needed. Install with a socket with about a 1/16 inch slop. Set the freeze plugs flush. I use a sealer on them. After removing the pair valves , reinstall bolts or put  a squeeze of silicone sealer in the threaded holes. I plastic welded shut the air line in the air box. The air lines on the bottom can be tapped for a 1/8th pipe plug or fill with J B weld . Just cut the lines and remove. Not necessary to remove the exhaust. When removing the air line at bottom , do not scrape the gasket , reuse with a sealer that will withstand the exhaust heat.  Harbor Freight sells a nice set of long reach ball swivel allen keys in 3/8th drive. They will reach up and get between the exhaust headers. Fuel line is easiest to install on right rear tube. Get new (or make) plugs for the other five runners.

                                                    da prez 

[The emperor has no clothes]

You have probably already seen this. But if not, it should help. If you have a non vacuum petcock you will have all of the intake nipples capped when done. (Unless you have a cruise control installed) You are in the Bay Area, if you have a CA bike it will be a little different. If so, there are some old posts in the Tech section about it.

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/desmog.htm

[sidecarwilliam]

Thank you all for the quick responses.  I will be tackling this in the next couple of weeks.  The pipes will be coming off for work (polishing etc.)
I am and am not looking forward to the work, but the bike has served so well yanking me, my wife, sidecar and leasurelite trailer without complaint that she deserves the best.
Thanks again and I am looking forward to any other suggestions any of you may have.

bill.

[Bagger John - #3785]

I have a CA-model '99 Tourer. I also have a couple sets of 49-state carbs. My approach is going to involve removing the CA-specific stuff and converting the bike to a 49-state setup, including a carb swap.

I'll probably keep the evap cannister as a vacuum reservoir in case I want to install a cruise control which requires one.

[SCain]

Follow the document in Shop Talk, but being a CA bike there are going to be things that aren't covered and are specific to the CA Bike.

California Carbs have a port on each carb that needs to be caped or plugged, with the exception of #3 carb that has two.
The vent tubes that come off each bank of carbs is short on the CA Model, the 49 state model has longer vent tubes and 90 into the rear brace, You will have to do something in that area.
The Gas Tank Vent does not have a "T" in the line, easy to add.

I am sure there are a few more, this is just what I remembered.

[98valk]

scroll down the page to see my posts of my de-smog plugs. 

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,105991.0.html

[MarkT]

I'll probably keep the evap cannister as a vacuum reservoir in case I want to install a cruise control which requires one.

John,  I recommend looking into the Rostra electronic cruise control, instead of the vacuum one.  It's a more reliable install, as no potential issues associated with vacuum leaks, diaphrams etc.  I have not installed the latter so I don't have experience on relative install complexity.  Yes the Rostra has some complexity but it's just a matter of following stepwise instructions.  It's been well developed by BobB and with contributions by Yours Truly and others.  See http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,86066.0.html

As for desmogging, I've done 2.  Found no kit is really needed.  The pare tubes can be left in place, just close them up by cutting them off, flattening and folding them over, using vise grips. If you can't get to the cutoff place easily, insert a bolt slathered with JBWeld to plug them.  You can make plugs for the vacuum nipples from some of the vacuum tubing, with silicon glue in the open end after cleaning the oil/dirt out with brake cleaner - or buy some fresh tubing so it's not dried out and hardened.  This method is just to expedite the job w/o a kit.  Don't need to remove the exhaust - but still have to work under the airbox.  Good time to install a Dan-Marc fuel shutoff and a Pingel if you want to be rid of the petcock failures.

[Jims99]

One other thought, don’t use cheap vacuum caps. The ones from auto parts store don’t hold up to the heat and will start leaking. Mine did within a year. Red eye has good ones that hold up well.

[Jess from VA]

One other thought, don’t use cheap vacuum caps. The ones from auto parts store don’t hold up to the heat and will start leaking. Mine did within a year. Red eye has good ones that hold up well.

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Ditto that.  The bag of cheapo auto parts vacuum caps I used, exploded and blew off or in-two on the first long trip I made (Roanoke IZ #1), and I got backfires so loud that cars around me thought someone was shooting at them and started swerving maneuvers (freeway).  Lots of fun, not.  

The increased vacuum and heat at sustained freeway speeds made them fail toot sweet.  

https://redeye.ecrater.com/p/3301919/three-vacuum-caps-honda-valkyrie#

 Honda 16215-MV4-000 Boost Cap Original Honda Part Brand New ($5 each)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/164019977662

[sidecarwilliam]

ordered both.
Thank you very much.

bill.

[rug_burn]

     Just use a short piece of 3.5mm hose, and something to plug it up.   I use some homemade delrin plugs I made... zero problems; these caps last forever, and are almost free.   Or, for the plug you could use a solid rivet, cutoff shoulder screw  with or without sealer, or even a BB...  Or just plug the hose with silicone sealer, and let it harden.   

[RonW]

Stick a screw in there and you're golden. Something I've been thinking about doing for years but never got around to it.

[sidecarwilliam]

Now you are making it too easy.
Thanks

bill.

[Jess from VA]

Just remember those ports need to be reopened to synchronize the carbs.  So however you plug them, they need to reopen without difficulty.

[Bagger John - #3785]

The GL1000, 1100 and 1200 all used an M6 pan-head screw and brass washer to plug the vacuum ports on their intake runners.

Most sync gauge kits sold back in the day included adapters for this style of port. One of mine has four short (~2") and two long (~4") adapters; another has two of each. The adapters can be fiddly when threading them into place.